Moody Blues in Torridon

[Grisu]

Due to the weather I didn't have a chance for a good walk during my first week of this year's summer holiday apart from a stroll on my first day along the River Gruinard to Loch na Sealga, which was quite fine. That day would have been a perfect walking day for the mountains but after 36 hours of travel from Eastfrisia in the north-west of Germany to Aultbea in the north-west of Scotland I was still too knackered.
For the rest of the week the weatherforecast wasn't really reliable and it didn't look as if the weather improved the following days. I had some bike rides and sightseeings until I finally was thinking about alternative walks around see-level one evening while I was looking down to Loch Maree from the A 832 and exploring the surrounding which looked quite intersting for walking. The next day I discovered some maps in a nice coffee shop in Gairloch on one of my bike rides.
Studying my new maps I finally opted for a walk in the Torridon, remembering my rides over there last year, especially along the A 896 through this beautiful landscape.
Having a closer look I discovered that this walk was part of the Beinn Eighe traverse including Ruad-stac Mòr and Spidean Coire nan Clach. These two munros had not been on my list for this summer but I remembered the explanation of someone I have talked to last year who took a picture of me in front of the impressive range of mountains on the far side of Loch Torridon.

Viewpoint at Upper Loch Torridon, summer 2019

I checked the walk description of WH and didn't fancy The Scree, definitely wouldn't like to come down this way. But when the weather was fine I would try to do the walk the other way round, I thought. I have read several reports, too, among one of ridgerunner (thanks for your report!) who described the ascent over Sail Mhòr which I kept it in mind as an alternative ascent.
When I arrived at the car park it was mainly windy, cloudy and busy.

I was lucky to find some space for my car.

Part of the Beinn Eighe traverse to the right

I am still not sure what I should say about the approx. 7 km walk along the good, slightly undulating and steadily ascending path.

Stepping Stones crossing Allt à Choire Dhuibh Mhòir

I was happy to walk, yes, but somehow I found it a bit boring, may be due to the moody atmosphere because of the clouds and the wind?

Again the impressive Beinn Eighe traverse with Ruad-stac Mòr at the end - you can already see The Scree - not sure wether it is the top of the Triple Buttress or Sàil Mhòr to the right

Although I usually don't mind being on my own, I was glad to have a young couple in front of me. Due to the undulation I saw them only from time to time but it helped me to feel not too forlorne.

The cairn where the path splits, the one to the left leads towards the parking along Abhainn Choire Mhic Nòbuil going round Liathach.

On the other hand I felt a bit depressed the whole time because of the covid-stuff.
Although I was very happy when the scottish government finally issued the list with the eligible countries and DFDS announced that they will resume operating on July 15th, which was only 9 days before I had booked my ferry, I never could really relax this summer and I wasn't as lighthearted and carefree as I used to be when I am in Scotland.
However, eventually I was rewarded by the scenery at Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair with the little waterfall,

Sail Mhòr rising intimidatingly steep above the Loch

and of course the impressive Triple Buttress which must be great to see in sunshine.

and a close-up

I had a little chat with the couple. They too intended to go up for the mountains but I haven't seen them again.
I didn't really care for a break, only changed clothes to keep me warm and protect me from rain which was predicted for the afternoon.
Befor I crossed the stepping stones I to talked to a young walker I have seen coming down from The Scree and asked him about the walking conditions and the path. He reassured me that I would be fine, no problems to pic up the path, easy going he said and so far there was still good visibility.

stepping stones above the waterfall which has to be crossed to get to the far side and pic up the path along the shore.

My mood was rising. Only which way shall I take for the ascent?
Along the shore of the Loch I met a mother with two young daughters and we had a little chat while we were observing two walkers coming down the bealach between the Triple Buttress and Sail Mhòr. Funny how busy it suddenly was at this place. The mother had a book with a description of that descent and it said it wasn't really as bad as it looked but the sight of the steepness was not really concincing.

The bealach between the Triple Buttress and Sàil Mhòr

And Sail Mhòr didn't look as an inviting alternative neither. Hesitating and still undecisive I headed towards The Scree and finally decided to climb up the crags to right.

rough walk

getting closer, still not convinced

definitely I would try the crags to the right!

finally there and I actually enjoyed the scramble

making good progress

When I reached the bealach more and more fog patches were swirling around and darker clouds were coming closer.

clouds and fog -- will the weather hold?

Outlook towards Ruadh-stac Mòr

And when I finally reached the cairn of Ruad-stac Mòr the nice views had been veiled by the mist, unfortunately

Only a quick shot for the record, no use to wait for better views while it started raining.

However, there is always the satisfaction about having completed another Munro at least, I told myself, turning around and retracing my steps back to the bealach.
I was wondering whether I would be able to find the path to Spidean Coire nan Clach and decided to give it a try. As long as I would be able to see the path, I thought, I would be fine. Altough in this weather it was quite a shame, but I wanted to avoid the descent down The Scree at all costs --
I still managed to reach the cairn of Còinneach Mhòr but then I did the wrong turn and after several hundreds of meters I have lost the path and found myself surrounded by thick mist, completely disoriented.

loosing the track

With the cairn out of sight I tried not to panic. Slowly I turned around and step by step, deeply breathing in and slowly breathing out, I found my way back the way I came and was very reliefed when I finally saw traces of the main path and then the faint silhouette of the cairn, only visible because of a darker shade of grey.
From there it was no problem to get back to the bealach where The Scree was waiting ... Climbing down the crags was no option anymore because it was raining and they had become slippy and I am not so selfconfident on a descent than on an ascent, no matter the conditions.

How to survive this, I wondered?

The visibility improved but The Scree was simply awful. With the first step I already almost lost my balance and I hardly could keep upright. I was struggling a lot, slipping and sliding down which caused quite some bruises. I already have some experiences with scree but this was by far the worst I ever had, very unpleasant.
At the bottom I had difficulties to find the path and it took me a little while until I reached the shore of the Loch and finally the waterfall where I retraced my steps.

wild zigzags

It was raining almost the whole time on my way back but when I reached the car park I was rewarded again and all my mixed emotions changed instantly at the sight of this beautiful stag grazing peaceful and with no signs of fear at the site of the car park.

What a sight!

https://www.strava.com/activities/3840506774

Finally happy about having managed my first munro this summer and survived The Scree-adventure I drove back to Aultbea were the humming sound of a power generator next to my little cottage welcomed me.

The Cwtch, Aultbea - (pic has been taken on departure day)

The generator has started the second day after my arrival and spoiled my first week. It was supposed to stop just a day after my departure . When the windows had been closed the noise was not too bad, but I hate to sleep with closed windows, especially in a place where you would expect peaceful silence and fresh air.

Loch Ewe, Aultbea

However, another adventure was waiting for me the next day.

[R1ggered]

Great report on a fantastic mountain. Pity about the typical Scotish weather. it doe make a big difference.

[BlackPanther]

I always enjoy reports about my favourite hill Beinn Eighe is such a magnificent mountain even in "typical Scottish" weather. Several years ago, we walked the main part of the ridge in thick clag and surprisingly, we loved the experience even without the views. There is something mystical about Beinn Eighe, especially Coire Mhic Fhearchair and the Triple Buttress.

I think this docile stag is a regular visitor to the car park, probably hopes to be fed by the tourists? We photographed him last year when returning from Sail Mhor/Ugly Step scramble:

[rockhopper]

Nice report - pity about the weather but still looked good. Have yet to visit the loch as I descended via the other scree slopes - approx SW from NG954598 which involved a lot of "surfing", sliding and zigzagging - tough on the legs but good fun (as long as you stay upright) and a quick way to descend - cheers

[Anne C]

Very enjoyable read! Just wish you'd got the views a bit better.
It's a long time since I did Beinn Eighe on my own - I went up via your route but the scree gully wasn't anything like as eroded as it seems to be now - but that's me talking about 30 years ago
I then came off Spidean Coire nan Clach in a way which I've never seen mentioned anywhere but it was perfectly straightforward if steep and tough on the knees - that is, via Coire nan Clach and picking my way down the moorland to the road. No path but it felt quite safe with plenty of vegetation, heather/grasses and so on. Certainly a better prospect than that scree gully as it looks horrible these days particularly as a descent route!

[jmarkb]

I then came off Spidean Coire nan Clach in a way which I've never seen mentioned anywhere but it was perfectly straightforward if steep and tough on the knees - that is, via Coire nan Clach and picking my way down the moorland to the road. No path but it felt quite safe with plenty of vegetation, heather/grasses and so on. Certainly a better prospect than that scree gully as it looks horrible these days particularly as a descent route!

I've done that a couple of times - it a good option! Depending on water levels, you can either cross the burn and rejoin the bottom section of the path, or stay on the E side.

[Anne C]

Oh that's good to hear it's still used in descent jmarkb - I also read of another descent route , coming off the scree at A'Choinneach Mhor, suggested by Steve Fallon but it gives me the heebie jeebies just looking at it

[rockhopper]

I also read of another descent route , coming off the scree at A'Choinneach Mhor, suggested by Steve Fallon but it gives me the heebie jeebies just looking at it

Think that's the way I descended probably after getting the idea from Steve Fallon - from about 1km ESE of Còinneach Mhòr then SSW ?

[Anne C]

That's it rockhopper

[past my sell by date]

Nice even in imperfect weather. The first time I walked round to Coire Mhic Fearchair there was only the faintest sign of a path beyond Coire Dubh and no-one there . The scree gully was awful then, but not worn as it is in now in your pic. Isn't the standard WH descent from Spidean Coire nan Clach down Coire an Laoigh which I've been up I seem to remember it being nice and grassy at the top - and grass is not common on this mountain . lower down you just curve round West back to the starting point.

[Grisu]

Very enjoyable read! Just wish you'd got the views a bit better.
It's a long time since I did Beinn Eighe on my own - I went up via your route but the scree gully wasn't anything like as eroded as it seems to be now - but that's me talking about 30 years ago
I then came off Spidean Coire nan Clach in a way which I've never seen mentioned anywhere but it was perfectly straightforward if steep and tough on the knees - that is, via Coire nan Clach and picking my way down the moorland to the road. No path but it felt quite safe with plenty of vegetation, heather/grasses and so on. Certainly a better prospect than that scree gully as it looks horrible these days particularly as a descent route!

I also read of another descent route , coming off the scree at A'Choinneach Mhor, suggested by Steve Fallon but it gives me the heebie jeebies just looking at it

Think that's the way I descended probably after getting the idea from Steve Fallon - from about 1km ESE of Còinneach Mhòr then SSW ?

BE.jpg

Thank's both for your comments and the information about the alternativ descent which I actually took the next day when I came from Spidean Coire nan Clach report about this adventure is coming soon.
Anke

[Grisu]

I always enjoy reports about my favourite hill Beinn Eighe is such a magnificent mountain even in "typical Scottish" weather. Several years ago, we walked the main part of the ridge in thick clag and surprisingly, we loved the experience even without the views. There is something mystical about Beinn Eighe, especially Coire Mhic Fhearchair and the Triple Buttress.

Nice even in imperfect weather. The first time I walked round to Coire Mhic Fearchair there was only the faintest sign of a path beyond Coire Dubh and no-one there . The scree gully was awful then, but not worn as it is in now in your pic. Isn't the standard WH descent from Spidean Coire nan Clach down Coire an Laoigh which I've been up I seem to remember it being nice and grassy at the top - and grass is not common on this mountain . lower down you just curve round West back to the starting point.

Great report on a fantastic mountain. Pity about the typical Scotish weather. it doe make a big difference.

Thank's everybody for you comments, I am happy that you enjoyed reading and that it brings back memories you share. My next report will be about my second attempt for Spidean nan Clach, so something to lool forward to, BP
Cheers
Anke