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We had climbed Cnap Cruinn for the first time
in autumn 2017, on a wet, cloudy day. My only memory from that walk is the squelchy sound of walking up/down waterlogged slopes. No views at all from higher ground. The only highlight of the route from Inverlair was discovering the old tramway paraphernalia along the Allt Laire. Since then I always wanted to return to this Graham in more favourable conditions, preferably in winter. And now, we had a chance. As it turned out, it was the last day before lockdown and although technically traveling within the Highlands is still legal, we will be now staying close to home, only climbing the very local hills. That is if weather allows on weekend days, which is the only time we can go out anywhere together. Kevin is so busy these days that I hardly see any of him during the week!
Back to Cnap Cruinn, the hill itself is not very inspiring, but its location gives the potential visitor the opportunity to admire a wide variety of mountains: from the rocky Innses to Creag Meagaidh, from The Grey Corries to the distant peaks of Knoydart. Even Buachaille Etive Mor can be spotted on the horizon! That is all, of course, if weather smiles.
We decided to repeat the route from Inverlair, simply because it was familiar to us and we remembered that the ascent part wasn't particularly steep or rocky. In case we had the same problem as the day before, we packed extra socks and gloves, but in the end, we didn't have any horrible adventures today. Just pure winter mountain p**n. There was little wind and the world seemed unusually silent and still...
On the track from Inverlair, which was actually constructed on a parallel road:
The Easain ridge which is on my to-redo list in winter conditions, but my knee is still too weak for such big mountains:
"Our" hill on the horizon, looks very white:
It was still early when we walked through the glen to the bottom of Cnap Cruinn, talking about other simple hills we could do in the near future. At that time we didn't know about the coming lockdown, though we suspected that things were not heading in a good direction. Somehow, this day felt like a good chance to charge our mountain batteries before we had to pull the plug from the socket. You know what I mean
In the shadow of the mighty Eassains:
The track passes a disused quarry and then turns abruptly right, following the line of the dismantled tramway. We reached the highest point of the track and decided to tackle the steeper end of Cnap Cruin ridge in ascent. There are a few crags and small streams on this slope but it is not difficult when picking your route carefully:
I noticed there was less snow here than in the north of the Highlands. Walking was much easier and though we had to work our way through a few sections of knee-deep snowdrifts, it was just that: a few sections. Generally, nice muscle workout, but nothing drastic even when breaking trail.
Panther in the morning sun
Looking down from the slopes of Cnap Cruinn, the morning mist didn't exactly burn off:
As mentioned above, careful route picking is needed in winter conditions, as there are some surprises under the snow, like this frozen stream...
...But it is worth breaking the sweat for the amazing views in every direction:
Looking due north from about half way up:
Somewhere around 150m below the summit, we encountered a set of crags covered in huge icicles. the can easily be avoided to the right hand side, but we stopped here for a few extra photos of the winter wonderland:
Looking back east to the forests around Fersit and Inverlair:
The final push:
I was very glad that my knee was still holding at the moment. Of course such is the nature of my injury that it always hurts more on the way down (the descending movement upsets it more), but on reaching the summit I didn't want to think about it. The Graham was a repeat, but for the first time we saw the views from the top and believe me - it was worth returning to!
On the summit, happy as a bunny:
Kevin spent far too much time photographing but he can't be blamed for being mesmerized with the silent, white world around.
A repeat for Lucy as well, but she was eager to pose on the summit cairn in her winter gear
behind her, the white tops of Glenfinnian/Loch Arkaig/Knoydart:
Now to the views. A few panoramas first - I think words are not necessary. Fantastic winter wonderland!
Zoom to Sgurr Innse and more distant Buachaille Etive Mor:
Beinn a'Chaorainn and Beinn Teallach:
The mountain in the middle of this photo, the one with the big corrie, must be Beinn Bhan, a Corbett we climbed last year in winter conditions:
The mountains of Ardgour:
After the neverending photo session, we had a hot cup of tea and a snack on the summit and prepared to go back. On a longer day, it is possible to extend the walk to the lower top, Beinn Chlianaig, but we didn't really have enough time today so we headed straight down. Instead of retracing our steps down the steeper section, we traversed more to the north and followed the southern side of Allt Boidheach.
Beinn Chlianaig from the descent route:
Kevin breaking the trail again, as I had a good excuse
At some point we entered a large patch of mist, lingering above the glen and the great views around us disappeared but we didn't care now. We had our share of fantastic winter wonderland!
A large herd of deer in the glen:
If you follow Allt Boidheach, it will take you back to the track on the old tramway:
Just a Graham... I know. But even a boring lump can be transformed into something spectacular in the right conditions. We haven't had such a lovely, white winter in years. Such a shame it had to happen at the same time as the bl***dy Covid. At least my knee is slowly returning to normal. It will probably take a few more weeks to trust it 100% but in the current climate, time is something we have in abundance
