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After my two adventures in Torridon (see if you like:
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=102055 and
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=102231) I have changed place from Aultbea to Achintraid where I had booked a little cottage. But on my arrival the cottage was already occupied by a couple
and the man was very unfriendly, told me to go to the Landlady who lived next door.
The Landlady was quite shocked when I knocked at her door. Obviously she didn't expect me to come due to corona although I got repeated confirmation and all information needed to get access to the cottage and again the day before from the agent.
To make a long story short: For this night I was accomodated in the Bothy of the Attadale Garden Estate thanks to the very kind and helpful Lady of the Estate. But the Bothy was a Bothy and not the place I wanted to spend a week of my precious holidays and of course everything was fully booked, no cottages available.
So I made this clear the next morning and finally moved into a private home of friends of the Landlady with exclusive views over Loch Kishorn to the mountains on the far side.
This was a nice scenery to contemplate while clouds, heavy showers and wafts of mist were passing by in the morning - so far a nice compensation for the discussion and inconveniences I had on my arrival and for some moody hours when outdoor activities had not been top on my list.
- Loch Kishorn
The next days I was waiting for
THE DAY to go for my next walk. But it was not before the fifth day that the weatherforecast seemed to be reliable enough.
Meanwhile I was exploring the area on my bike the first day. The second day I drove over to Skye, cycled from the bridge to Luib and had some Fish&Chips at the shore of Harrapool on my way back. The next day was only storm and rain so instead of aa bike ride around the Applecross Peninsula I finally decided to take my car.
- The only fellowers I met on my way to Applecross.
- The Applecross Inn was fully booked and it was amazing to see so many folks after my lonely drive along the coast. So I had a lager outside and later some Fish&Chips at moody Applecross Bay
- The famous Viewpoint on Applecross Peninsula: Bealach na Ba - as you can see, you see nothing :-)))
The fourth day I only left for some Fish&Chips in the evenign which I could eat at the shore of Lochcarron after the rain and the wind has finally seized. Luckily it never got really cold. May be I should change the headline:
biting my time with Fish&Chips at the shores these kind of suppers became a sort of traditon this summer actually
.
- Fish&Chips at Lochcarron
Waiting for THE DAY I was finally rewarded. I definitely wanted this walk not to be spoiled by changing weather. I know, being in Scotland this is quite an ambitious project, but since I have discovered the ridge walks in Kintail I only saw myself walking in sunshine. And so my dream became true
It was already a perfcet morning and again I was humming the tunes of the song: What a difference a day makes ...
- After a cloudy evening over Loch Kishorn the day before the morning sun was breaking through the clouds.
- Reflections on Lochcarron
It was such a lovely morning that I didn't want to rush. So I took my time and stopped by at Eilean Donan Castle - it would have been a shame to have missed this scenery!
- Refections of Eilean Donan Castle on a peaceful sunny morning
Finally I reached Cluanie Inn where I locked my bike and had a cappucciono before I set off to find the parking.
- locked my bike at a sign
- To find an open place in these crazy covid-times was something very special!
Finding the parking turned out to become a little challenge. According to the description it looks as if there is only one parking but there are so many parkings and laybys. After some u-turns which had not been easy on this busy road I finally managed. At the parking I met a man who was preparing for the Five Sisters.
Together we were looking to find the path up the steep steep slopes which had been very muddy in parts. At one point we separated and soon I lost track.
Well then, why not go cross country upwards for a change?
It was hard work because the steepness was relentless. but the views back down the Glen and over to the south side had been very impressive.
- The steep slopes and views towards the Mountains of the south side of Glen Shiel
Looking on my garmin record it looks very stupid that I have lost the track which - as usual - was not far away from where I was walking. However, I finally managed and reached the ridge not too far away from the cairn which marks the Bealach an Làpain.
- I never understand how I can miss the path so close
Once up the ridge there was no more confusion, just following the ridge - I was safe
Half way up to Saileag I met a little party of young people coming down. The have started at the Cluanie Inn and were heading for the parking where they have arranged a lift back to Edinburgh. Apart from a little chat with a couple which I met at Sgurr a'Bhealaich Dheirg I was on my own for the whole day. Unbelievable considering the weather!
At the cairn of Saileag I found a canon camera and a nice case and it was clear that this belonged to one of the young people I just have met. I wasn't sure what to do. Would they realize the loss while they were going down or at the parking? Would they come back? Shall I leave it or take it with me? I finally decided to take it with me and to leave a note at the Cluanie Inn and on Walkhighlands which turned out to be the best decision. A day after I have made my post in the
lost and found forum I got an excited reply. I was very happy that I could return the camera and the case to its owner some days later when I had the chance to post it at the office in Ullapool.
- Cairn at Saileag, may be you spot the small camera and the case, camouflaged by the stones.
- Outlook towards my next walk: The Five Sisters
- View down River Croe and Gleann Lichd
Following the undulating ridge it was sheer pleasure and I hope the pictures give a little impression of this beautiful day!
- On my way to Sgùrr a Bealaich Dheirg
- my "Cliffhanger-Pic" next to the cairn
- the impressive cairn of Sgùrr a Bhealaich Dheirg
- continuing my walk I passed this little Lochan and having some fun with my only compainion, the shaddow - thanks to the sun :-)))
- looking back to Sgùrr a Bhealaich Dheirg
- Cairn at Aonach Meadhoin
- mighty Ben Nevis in the background
- last summit: Sgùrr an Fhuarail and Loch Cluanie behind
- At the end of my walk dragons came out to play and dance
Finally I got in trouble again.
Which way to go?
Shal I turn right at this cairn or shall I go further ahead to the trigpoint in the distance? The description was not very helpful to me a this point.
- Which way?
I first tried the path leading down from the cairn but then it didn't convince me because I was missing the steep ground to my left - according to the description, so I returned and went to the trigpoint following another path leading me directly to the Cluanie Inn which was a loooooong way down, not so steep as the ascent but very boggy in parts further down.
- little detour before I picked up the right path for the looong descent
- With Loch Cluanie and Cluanie Inn in sight I felt safe again.
Finally at the Cluanie Inn I had a nice break with a soup and a lager, enjoying the people around me and leaving my note about the camera. Finally I took my bike to ride back to the parking throug the almost silent Glen now, enjoying the impressive mountains to both sides and retracing my steps mentally while looking up to today's ridge trying to figure out what places I do spot from below the road.
- mentally retracing my walk backwards
- sunset over Loch Cluanie
- Very impressed by the mountains on the south side of Glen Shiel I wondered what walks are to discover over there...
With a final look to the Brother's Ridge I said goodbye to the mountains and hurried up to get my bike attached to the rack before the midges would have eaten me up. By the way; It was the first year -- after five years in a row of summer holidays in Scotland -- that I really learned about the midges. The first years had been midges-free and only last year I got to know some in very few places, but this year was really annoying.
On my way back I took another look at Eilan Donan Castle, which was a peaceful finish of an extraordinary day!
- Eilean Donan Castle at night
Now, ambitious as usual and encouraged by this day, I was waiting for another good day to do the Five Sisters ....
