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Kiloran Bay by
Anne C, on Flickr
It had always niggled me that on our only trip to Colonsay 20 years ago(scary how quickly this time has passed
) we had never got over to the tidal island of Oronsay with its beautiful 14th century ruined abbey, built by John, Lord of the Isles. Neither had we climbed Colonsay’s highest hill overlooking spectacular Kiloran Bay, one of the Hebrides loveliest stretches of sand. With some time for a short trip away, Colonsay called us and in late September we set sail from Oban on the stunning 2 hour 15 min journey to the island’s tiny ‘capital’ , Scalasaig.
For lunch on board The Clansman, we'd bought some carry out food from Oban’s famous Seafood Shack on the pier - 5 huge, freshly cooked scallops in garlic butter and the biggest Prawn Marie Rose sandwich I’ve ever seen. There was enough protein packed into that lunch to last us the whole weekend!
The pier and the shellfish shop by
Anne C, on Flickr
Down we sailed past Kerrera and our walk of the previous day...
Kerrera - our previous day's walk by
Anne C, on Flickr
Then we drew closer to the isolated east coast of Mull which I thought looked gorgeous...
Mull's lonely eastern shores by
Anne C, on Flickr
Mull in autumn colours by
Anne C, on Flickr
...and past the rocky Garvellachs...
The Garvellachs by
Anne C, on Flickr
Three or four dolphins suddenly broke furiously through the surface of the sea, on the hunt. The usual mad panic to focus the camera - I only managed one and even that was 'just.'
Dolphins on the hunt off Mull by
Anne C, on Flickr
Then the Paps of Jura loomed, still wrapped in the cloud which had brought rain last night and this morning.
Jura and the Paps by
Anne C, on Flickr
Islay was clearing a little too...
Jura and Islay (right) by
Anne C, on Flickr
At 2.30pm, we pulled into pretty Scalasaig harbour. It was Monday afternoon and there was no ferry now until Wed at 3.30pm.We were marooned - but in a good way
The cloud had cleared spectacularly now too - blue skies reigned.
The harbour by
Anne C, on Flickr
We had the car this trip and after we unloaded everything including the kitchen sink
at the Colonsay House Apartments, I couldn't wait to see Kiloran Bay under sunny skies - it was only a 10 minute walk away.
Kiloran from the high road by
Anne C, on Flickr
The sand is unusual, almost orange in some light and striking against the turquoise sea and the pounding surf. The whole place is enhanced by being overlooked by the island’s highest hill – Carn nan Eoin or the Hill of the Birds. That was tomorrow's plan after we had crossed the tidal sands to Oronsay. We could have wheeched up the hill today but we'd had a couple of days of Munro bagging and a walk round Kerrera the day before; I think we both just wanted to relax and enjoy some quiet time on the beach
Kiloran by
Anne C, on Flickr
At the far end, we came across the absolutely enormous remains of a Fin whale, the second largest animal on Earth, just its bleached bones left on the grass. It was washed up in 2017.
Whale remains, Kiloran by
Anne C, on Flickr
We finished the afternoon with a walk up the high road above the beach.It was just such a glorious autumn afternoon, there wasn't anywhere I would rather have been than overlooking those beautiful sands.
We strolled back to our cosy abode for the next 2 nights (Turnigill Apartment) and had a wander round Colonsay House’s gardens, with their slightly exotic feel. There were lots of blue hydrangeas still in bloom though we were too late for the rhododendrons, considered (we were told) to be the finest collection in Scotland. Our apartment windows were in the attic floor of the main house and overlooked the grounds.
Colonsay House and our apartment, Turnigill by
Anne C, on Flickr
With a good forecast for tomorrow and the Tide Tables suggesting low tide at 11.30am, my longed for walk over to Oronsay looked ‘on.’
This was actually quite lucky because during the previous 4 days it had been impossible to access the island due to very high tides. How long you have on Oronsay varies every day – tomorrow, we would have 3 hours get across and back and explore.It can be longer than this but 3 hours sounded pretty good.
We woke to beautiful blue skies and left a good hour earlier than planned. Chris reckoned that we could try setting off at 9.30am
hoping that the areas of water which remain even a lowest tide, would be shallow enough to wade through. All I can say is the words of the song proved true - 'if it wisnae for our wellies what would we do?' - well, we would have had very wet feet
The Estate offers these for guests to use and they were far better than our hiking boots.
There was one other car in the small parking area - ye gods, someone else had had a similar brainwave to squeeze a bit more time out of the day. At the start of the strand, we could see the tyre tracks of the Postal Van which makes the crossing to Oronsay every day and which marks the easiest route. On the island itself there is also a tall post with a wee reflector (for vehicles crossing in the dark!) which helps you set your course too.
Low tide crossing to Oronsay by
Anne C, on Flickr
There’s something quite special (and slightly stressful) about setting off to reach a tidal island, knowing time is limited. We were wading almost immediately and this continued on and off, the water nearly over the wellies in places. But in 15 mins we were across and had caught up with the other couple, the lady having crossed in walking boots which were now absolutely soaking. She wasn't very happy, to put it mildly ( I don't know why she just didn't take the boots off and go barefoot.
) Her husband had open sandals on bare feet, much more practical. Chatted briefly and she nodded towards my own footwear – ‘that’s what I need!’ she announced, eyeing up my black wellies. Commiserating with her, we walked on, as she stayed perched on a rock, wringing her socks out. We planked the wellies behind some boulders further along the shore and out of sight – valuable commodities in this environment
Then on with the walking boots, a lot more comfortable for the 10km circular walk that lay ahead.
Heading back to the tidal crossing by
Anne C, on Flickr
It was now a perfect, early autumn day of sunshine and blue skies, the landscape already turning tawny and gold. Oronsay has swathes of flattish grasslands and machair and is ringed by some lovely white shell sand beaches. It’s a very arable island – the monks knew good land when they saw it - and it reminded me of the Uists. The island is owned by an American lady but managed by the RSPB and although we were too late in the season, Corncrakes breed there and there are also Choughs. We were lucky in spotting a Peregrine Falcon near the Priory, racing across the sky but quite low down, as if on the hunt. Chris also saw a Merlin which I missed and we both watched, briefly, a female Hen Harrier with her distinctive, slightly jerky flight, dipping and rising over the fields as she looked for lunch.
Hen harrier by
Anne C, on Flickr
Peregrine by
Anne C, on Flickr
An excellent track took us to Oronsay Farm and the ancient and very beautiful Priory itself, where we explored the superb collection of 14th century buildings and two Celtic carved crosses, one of which was over 3m high. One small building housed warrior grave slabs and slabs with the intricate carvings of past Priors. It was a superb place altogether.
The farm is also where Oronsay’s five residents live, in a beautiful and very pristine collection of stone buildings – complete with duck pond!
Oronsay Priory by
Anne C, on Flickr
Cloisters by
Anne C, on Flickr
Grave slabs by
Anne C, on Flickr
The beach and lunch beckoned and off we set, through gates marked in yellow that helpfully signpost the correct route through fields of cows, sheep and crops. Oronsay is a very walker-friendly island. The white sands of Port na Luinge - the Port of the Galley - were glorious to arrive on and we found a sheltered corner at the far end out of the wind.
Beach at the Priory by
Anne C, on Flickr
I was ready for tea and the coronation chicken sandwiches we made up from last night’s roast chicken. It really was an idyllic spot, utterly peaceful and unspoiled. Columba is believed to have landed on Oronsay but because he could still see Ireland (just visible on a very clear day apparently) he set sail again until he reached Iona.
Bothy by
Anne C, on Flickr
After 40 mins or so we forced ourselves to get on the move again, passing a nice little bothy above the beach then across the fields to another longer stretch of shell sand. A strange keening sound rose above the sound of the waves lapping on the shore - then we spied what it was - Grey Atlantic seals singing on an offshore islet.Quite an eerie sound - no wonder at night sailors thought there were mermaids
, they sound almost human at times.
Next beach at Seal Cottage by
Anne C, on Flickr
There are up to 1,000 seals breeding in Oronsay’s myriad offshore skerries and islets. Their soft high pitched moaning was the only sound here, apart from the soft crunch of the surf. A nice stone cottage – appropriately named Seal Cottage on the map – sat behind the beach on the machair though a careful peek inside revealed it to be empty.
We wandered along the beach a little, admiring the views to Jura which I think is one of my favourite in Scotland - such a beautiful outline. Then along a track taking us through a field and past a shell midden marked on the map, left by Mesolithic people and evidence that the island was lived in 7,000 years ago.
Jura by
Anne C, on Flickr
Ruin, Oronsay by
Anne C, on Flickr
Back near the marker post at The Strand, Chris headed off to the rocks to retrieve our hidden wellies (stilll there!) and off we set back to the car. I’d almost forgotten how much fun it is to deliberately splash through water – 62 years of age going on 6! No wonder children can’t resist it – I still couldn’t!
Wellies still needed by
Anne C, on Flickr
There were quite a few other cars parked now. That said, we only saw 2 other couples the whole time we were there.
We were just heading off when a large bird broke the skyline of a low ridge - it was a Golden Eagle. I was amazed to see it, not imagining that tiny Colonsay had the terrain or concentration of prey to sustain such a bird. And then a second bird appeared, soaring over the ridge and joining its sibling or partner. What a sight! We did wonder whether they were Sea Eagles, which are more common, but the photos I managed (such as they were, not sharp) revealed the golden head.
Golden eagle near the crossing point by
Anne C, on Flickr
It was 1pm now and a little climb up Colonsay’s highest hill was now in prospect.We would need a bit of extra energy for that so first of all, it was time to return to Colonsay Estate’s Garden Café and sample my favourite snack of the day – home-made cake!
P1110846.jpg by
Anne C, on Flickr
The Garden Café is a lovely wee set up which seems to draw people from all over Colonsay – usually a sign of good food. We sat on the terrace , sheltered from the nippy wind and enjoying the glorious warmth of the late Sept sunshine. It’s a delightful place altogether and even more so was their (huge) Millionaire’s Shortbread which Chris demolished and my Chocolate Fudge cake. Definitely homemade, excellent stuff.
A final little effort awaited this afternoon – the hopefully short clamber up Carnan Eoin or The Rocky Top of the Birds.
Kiloran and Carnan Eoin hill which we climbed. by
Anne C, on Flickr
The weather was still holding as we made our way to the end of Kiloran Bay again and followed a rough but clear track up the Hill of the Birds. In 10 minutes we were at the small, rocky top with gorgeous views over the sands and out to Mull, Jura and Tiree.
A 10 min climb by
Anne C, on Flickr
On the summit - Jura by
Anne C, on Flickr
Behind the next bay, we could also see the stone sculpture of a whale which is being created with boulders and pebbles, a very impressive outline on the grass.
The Whale Sculpture from the summit by
Anne C, on Flickr
Mull from the summit by
Anne C, on Flickr
A difficult summit to leave, Carn nan Eoin, but already we could see the day beginning to change with thin cloud building in the south and in fact a couple of hours later, the rain was rattling on the roof of our apartment and it kept up for most of the next day.
Above the beach on a good track by
Anne C, on Flickr
But how lucky we were to have that window of weather and the right tide, for our one full day here. The heavy rain next day put paid to my final idea of doing the 6 mile return walk to the north coast beach at Balnahard which I've yet to see. One final thrilling sighting of a sea eagle as we made our way to Scalasaig - it was sitting on a rock close to the road and took off when I footered around too long trying to get a photo
P1110909.jpg by
Anne C, on Flickr
How to spend a couple of hours waiting for the ferry in the rain?Well, we thought we better mull that 'problem' over a coffee and some home made Colonsay Honey Ice Cream , a local speciality. It was amazing stuff, with a real taste of clover about it (I bought a jar of the honey and even now, when I open the lid, the scent of wildflowers is strong.) Now in lazy mode and after a short, damp wander through the village and up to the church, we somehow found our legs taking us to the lovely Isle of Colonsay hotel where lunch was being served.D Excellent it was too.
I did feel a bit disappointed not to get to Balnahard but what a great excuse - if one were needed - to return to this little gem of an island.
Leaving Colonsay by
Anne C, on Flickr
