Pretty coastal hamlet from above and below
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2021 6:40 pmWhen we walked this route I wasn't aware Walkhighlands had a description for it. It came about from looking across the Moray Firth and thinking a walk from North Kessock to Kilmuir would be good to do with a return over Ord Hill - all visible from our kitchen window. So we checked it was low tide and parked by the lifeboat station, directly under the Kessock bridge.
A noisy place to stand with traffic thundering overhead
When the bridge was built houses near to it were compensated. Someone we know used the money to build a conservatory with small swimming pool to make up for the arrival of noise pollution.
Over the firth to west Inverness and the hill of Craig Phadrig
Zoomed up Beauly Firth to the hills of Mullardoch and Strathfarrar
Along the coast to Kilmuir
We set off along the narrow tarmac lane in the direction of Kilmuir. It's a delightful stretch of quiet road I once drove my mother along to see the bluebells in the woods. I always think of her when I walk there now.
As we neared Croft Downie we took a left fork uphill to meet another track where we turned right, passing above Croft Downie before heading back down to the shoreline. With cliffs on the left this wouldn't be passable at high tide and with the tide out the seaweed-covered stones are lethally slippy. Once closer to Kilmuir it becomes easier underfoot.
Nearing the hamlet of Kilmuir
Kilmuir is an attractive row of houses with pretty gardens along the seafront and a scattering of larger houses on the hillside. A friend's daughter lives in Kilmuir and says you need a 4 wheel drive or at least snow tyres to get up the hill in winter as the road isn't a priority for gritting.
Nestled at the foot of Ord Hill
The phone box the locals protected from removal (according to Gordie)
After breathing in the peace of this sleepy little place we took the only way out that we could see (apart from continuing further along the coast or returning the way we had come). We headed up the road and passed the John o' Groats Trail turn off to the right and looked out for where it joins the road from the left higher up. This grassy track leads past buildings at Craigbeck Farm and rows of small conifers with coloured labels.
Christmas tree farm
We remembered the track as waterlogged from when we had previously done the JOGT, but it wasn't so bad this time.
Previously wet track
Reaching the gate we turned left on the circular track round Ord Hill which was busy with walkers, children and dogs, a popular walk for Invernesians. It would have been quicker for us to have gone anticlockwise except that the views are better from this side. But it had clouded over and was such poor light the next three photos were taken six months earlier.
Kilmuir from Ord Hill
Kessock bridge from Ord Hill
West from Ord Hill in winter
West from Ord hill on the day of this walk
After that it began raining steadily so the camera went away. We continued round the track to the car park and out to rejoin the Kilmuir road. We had decided on this longer route so we didn't have to cross the A9 which is busy with speeding traffic in summer, otherwise known as tourist season. This took us on to the Drumsmittal road where we turned left and stayed on it as it took us under the A9 and past the new housing, then down the hill to the original seafront village of North Kessock. When I was a small child (and long before the existence of the bridge) I remember the excitement of taking the ferry across with my granny to visit her friend who lived on the waterfront, which I particularly liked doing as she had hens.
Two weeks later I was back on a sunnier day, which meant brighter photos and another swim for the dog.
North Kessock's seaside garden
Old ferry jetty
Kessock bridge and lifeboat station
The way to Kilmuir again
Having a dip
What is puzzling about the 7 existing user reports for this walk is that they're not about the North Kessock and Kilmuir circuit but all about Loch nam Bonnach near Beauly. I vaguely remember there being a WH description for that route and wonder if it was removed due to the attitude of the estate towards walkers? This would fit with the experience Moira and I had there in July 2018. A pity as it's a lovely walk.
Loch nam Bonnach
A noisy place to stand with traffic thundering overhead
When the bridge was built houses near to it were compensated. Someone we know used the money to build a conservatory with small swimming pool to make up for the arrival of noise pollution.
Over the firth to west Inverness and the hill of Craig Phadrig
Zoomed up Beauly Firth to the hills of Mullardoch and Strathfarrar
Along the coast to Kilmuir
We set off along the narrow tarmac lane in the direction of Kilmuir. It's a delightful stretch of quiet road I once drove my mother along to see the bluebells in the woods. I always think of her when I walk there now.
As we neared Croft Downie we took a left fork uphill to meet another track where we turned right, passing above Croft Downie before heading back down to the shoreline. With cliffs on the left this wouldn't be passable at high tide and with the tide out the seaweed-covered stones are lethally slippy. Once closer to Kilmuir it becomes easier underfoot.
Nearing the hamlet of Kilmuir
Kilmuir is an attractive row of houses with pretty gardens along the seafront and a scattering of larger houses on the hillside. A friend's daughter lives in Kilmuir and says you need a 4 wheel drive or at least snow tyres to get up the hill in winter as the road isn't a priority for gritting.
Nestled at the foot of Ord Hill
The phone box the locals protected from removal (according to Gordie)
After breathing in the peace of this sleepy little place we took the only way out that we could see (apart from continuing further along the coast or returning the way we had come). We headed up the road and passed the John o' Groats Trail turn off to the right and looked out for where it joins the road from the left higher up. This grassy track leads past buildings at Craigbeck Farm and rows of small conifers with coloured labels.
Christmas tree farm
We remembered the track as waterlogged from when we had previously done the JOGT, but it wasn't so bad this time.
Previously wet track
Reaching the gate we turned left on the circular track round Ord Hill which was busy with walkers, children and dogs, a popular walk for Invernesians. It would have been quicker for us to have gone anticlockwise except that the views are better from this side. But it had clouded over and was such poor light the next three photos were taken six months earlier.
Kilmuir from Ord Hill
Kessock bridge from Ord Hill
West from Ord Hill in winter
West from Ord hill on the day of this walk
After that it began raining steadily so the camera went away. We continued round the track to the car park and out to rejoin the Kilmuir road. We had decided on this longer route so we didn't have to cross the A9 which is busy with speeding traffic in summer, otherwise known as tourist season. This took us on to the Drumsmittal road where we turned left and stayed on it as it took us under the A9 and past the new housing, then down the hill to the original seafront village of North Kessock. When I was a small child (and long before the existence of the bridge) I remember the excitement of taking the ferry across with my granny to visit her friend who lived on the waterfront, which I particularly liked doing as she had hens.
Two weeks later I was back on a sunnier day, which meant brighter photos and another swim for the dog.
North Kessock's seaside garden
Old ferry jetty
Kessock bridge and lifeboat station
The way to Kilmuir again
Having a dip
What is puzzling about the 7 existing user reports for this walk is that they're not about the North Kessock and Kilmuir circuit but all about Loch nam Bonnach near Beauly. I vaguely remember there being a WH description for that route and wonder if it was removed due to the attitude of the estate towards walkers? This would fit with the experience Moira and I had there in July 2018. A pity as it's a lovely walk.
Loch nam Bonnach
