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Grahams: Creag Dhubh Mhor.
Sub 2k Marilyns: Seana Mheallan.
Date: 02 and 03/04/2021.
Distance: 8.5km + 12km.
Ascent: 450m + 670m.
Time: 4 hours, 10 minutes + 6 hours, 45 minutes.
Weather: Warm, sunny and calm, although occasional breeze still freezing.
After a winter of sticking (relatively) close to home, a relaxation in restrictions made us feel more comfortable about visiting the wider parts of our council area. Living in the Highlands is great for this - even with a restriction on moving across local authority borders, you could spend the rest of your life exploring the majority of the best bits of Scotland.
Good Friday and the Saturday after had a stunner of a forecast, with things deteriorating into strong winds and Winter: The Revenge shortly afterwards, so after some thought we decided to head for Torridon. Having forgotten what was needed for an overnight trip, we didn't exactly get moving early, and it was after 2pm when we set off from Annat for Seana Mheallan. We had decided to start with a shorter walk then do something a little more challenging on the Saturday if Jackie was up for it.
Seana Mheallan from Torridon The weather was better over here than on the east coast, although still with less sunshine than expected. Setting off along the southern bank of the River Torridon, good track soon became less distinct path. We aimed for what looked like a bridge over the Abhainn Thrail only to discover it was long gone. This didn't matter too much, as just before Christmas we had spotted another unmarked bridge further upstream.
Liathach and a missing bridge Jaxter There were traces of quad bike trail heading for an unmarked fenced plantation near the bridge we were after, but we decided to follow the old stalker's path up the bank of the river. Slow and heathery, but worthwhile for the scenery.
Falls on the Abhainn Thrail Waterfalls At the fenced enclosure around the planted area, we entered through the gate and immediately crossed the bridge. We knew that we would have to climb back out of here over a deer fence again, but the bridge was on the inside of the enclosure.
Crossing back over the fence wasn't too much of a trial, and after an initial descent into a heathery ravine, the ground became better, with lots of walking across sandstone slabs.
Maol Chean Dearg We had been going reasonably well up to this point, but the steeper ascent tired Jackie out, and after negotiating a small gully to avoid the initial nose of Seana Mheallan, she had to lie down and die for a bit! Fortunately the sun came out at this point, making the break very pleasant (probably the first time this year we've been able to just sit down and rest without having to wrap up and shelter from the wind).
Am Fasarinen pinnacles on Liathach Jaxter is just about dead After a break and a drink, we were able to dodge to the south of the final steepening and get to the summit. The views are fairly constrained, but everything you can see from here is top notch, with a view right up to the Am Fasarinen pinnacles on Liathach.
Loch Torridon Beinn Liath Mhor and Sgorr Ruadh Zoom across Loch Torridon to Skye (just visible in the haze) Summit pool Liathach from Seana Mheallan Beinn Eighe Coulin hills Liathach After sitting around for a bit, we dropped off on a more southely aspect of the hill. This took us down a couple of gullies and to the enclosure deer fence at a higher location than where we had crossed out of it. Inside the planted area, the ground was worse and just before getting back to the bridge, I managed to disappear up to my shin into some mud
.
Sgorr Ruadh on the way down New plantation and Sgorr Ruadh We followed the quad bike track back down to Annat - it disappeared in places but was quicker than our route up. In retrospect, I don't know if this was easier than my previous approach from Ling Hut, but it included some satisfying strolling across sandstone.
Liathach from Torridon In the last 10 minutes back to the car, we had discussed dinner with increasing enthusiasm until I realised that I hadn't put any gas for the stove in
. Oh well, tomorrow's sandwiches would have to do then! Fortunately that only ruined the evening slightly - we pitched up lazily next to the A896 and enjoyed a sunset over Loch Torridon.
Liathach from the Shieldaig road Sgorr a Chadail end of Liathach Home for the night Seana Mheallan from our camp spot Sunset over the Applecross peninsula Last light on Liathach Beinn Alligin Sunset on Loch Torridon ________________________________________
We had a great sleep and woke up to sun and warmth - I had forgotten how great it was to be somewhere other than my bed! Breakfast was a bit limited due to me forgetting the gas, but we had cereal bars to munch on before driving round to Lochcarron to buy tea and sandwiches.
Good morning! Beinn Alligin Loch Carron I have to confess I haven't found the lockdowns too bad - tedious and repetitive certainly, but for the most part I have managed to keep my sanity. But occasionally my mind goes into overdrive, wondering whether anything will ever be normal again; wondering if Jackie will ever be able to do the sort of things she could 15 months ago etc. Getting away into the outdoors (especially in the NW highlands) usually leaves all of that behind, but even on Seana Mheallan yesterday I couldn't shake those thoughts. Today I woke up in a much better mood, and as a bonus Jackie didn't feel overly awful after yesterday so we could attempt something slightly bigger.
That 'something bigger' wasn't massive - I had flagged up Creag Dhubh Mhor as a hill that didn't have too much ascent, and also had a decent path for much of the lower reaches, meaning we'd be on better ground by the time it came for us to find our own route. Still, it's a hill I have been up twice before and enjoyed both times, despite it barely standing out on the map or the skyline. Parking opposite a garage-type yard in Attadale, we headed up the path (noting the presence of another car - maybe we'd actually meet someone on the hill today!)
Sgorr Ruadh and Fuar Tholl from Strathcarron The path goes downhill slightly at the beginning before being obliterated by a new hydro scheme track. This wasn't here the first time I came this way, but in the 3 years since my last visit, the visual impact has softened a lot. From here we could see the presumed occupant of the other car ahead of us. He was moving faster than we were so I assumed that would be he last we'd see of him. Missing the cairn where the path branches back off from the new hydro road, we found ourselves following a muddy rut up the bank from the weir. Fortunately it wasn't far to get back onto the path, at which point we had a break. If yesterday had been not too cold, today was positively warm in the direct sun
.
Lochcarron from Coire Taodail An Ruadh-stac and Maol Chean-dearg Sgurr a Gharaidh and the Applecross hills Coulin hills Higher up, we left the path for a prominent steep slope between our summit and a nipple-like point to the east. Most of this had animal tracks on it so the going was good underfoot. Climbing out of the gap at the top was steeper, and we contoured any intermediate bumps to keep the ascent to a minimum.
Heading towards the nipple I had never previously had unimpeded views from here before - there were always clouds in one direction or another. We were immediately impressed by what we could see - vistas out over Ben Dronaig and the centre of the Mullardoch/Monar area were excellent from here. Also of some surprise was the person who had been ahead of us reaching the summit only a couple of minutes before us - turned out he had followed the stalker's path further towards Bearnais bothy before doubling back along the ridge. After a bit of a chat we discovered that we were both on Scottishhills (he turned out to be Chris_Glasgow - username now a bit redundant as he had recently moved to Dingwall). We then managed to while away an easy 90 minutes in the sunshine talking, which was lovely and not really expected on this most obscure of hills!
Bidein a Choire Sheasgaich Bidein a Choire Sheasgaich and Lurg Mor with the northern Mullardoch hills beyond Coulin and Torridon hills from Creag Dhubh Mhor Loch Calavie and Sgurr na Lapaich Beinn Dronaig Aonach Buidhe and Sgurr nan Ceathramhnan Eventually we realised that we needed to get moving if we were to be home in time for a catchup with some friends. Chris headed off to traverse the rest of the summit ridge towards Carn Geuradainn while we opted to drop down to Loch na Creadha and pick up the stalker's path there. Although the ground was a little squishy in a couple of places, this was quite straightforward and fast, Jackie having benefitted greatly from the long summit break.
Jackie with Loch Carron behind Beinn Liath Mhor and the Fannaichs to the right Looking back to Creag Dhubh Mhor Loch nan Creadha and Creag Dhubh Mhor Waterfall on Allt Feadan Dhughaill Across Strathcarron At the bottom, Jackie carried on down the hydro road to Strathcarron Station in order to avoid the last little bit of ascent, and I went for the car and drove round to meet her. In the end she did end up suffering from today's exertion, but it was probably as much down to the heat (we both ended up a bit red) and lack of water as anything else. On the plus side, we both went home feeling a bit more positive than we had earlier in the week, which is largely why we do this in the first place
.