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The first "proper" weekend we've had in many months. With a good weather forecast I was casting around for somewhere that would be pleasant, have some straightforward Munros for day walks and a place to camp. I initially was thinking somewhere in Perthshire or Glen Lyon, but a report from midweek showed that the snow wasn't going to be a problem up Loch Quoich way - decision made!
We drove up the A82 on Thursday night, having picked Allison up from work - yes - just like the good old days! Had a good look at the snow level going through Glencoe and beyond - not a great deal left, until you get to The Ben and the Aonachs/Grey Corries. It had been a beautiful day, and it was a lovely evening as we drove the windy road along Loch Quoich. I had planned to camp on a flat bit of ground just before the dam, but it's now surrounded by a building site...we continued on a couple of miles and stopped at a viewpoint, pitched and settled down to watch a glorious sunset over the Glen Dessarry hills. One of my favourite views. Not a sound all night, no passing traffic and a big, bright moon.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Gleorach and Spidean Mialach were on the books for Friday - we were up at 7 and away by 8. Parked at the usual spot and headed up Gleorach first, the stalkers' path making effortless ascent possible. Or as near effortless as two unfit creatures could manage. A light haze sat over Sgurr na Ciche and friends - we could see the Knoydart hills peek out as we continued to climb. A bit of snow in the northern aspect of the worries, but none on the path to the summit. I was filled with a deep sense of calm and relaxation, something I haven't felt much of for many months. I attribute this to the surroundings - beauty, no other people milling around and gabbing like the busy hills around Loch Lomond/Arrochar last weekend, also the sense of being in new terrain and having to just adjust your step, not take everything for granted.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Going up Spidean Mialach we met the iconic Derek Wardlaw, outfitted in outrageously bright blue gear, with a couple of friends. We chatted for a bit, arranged to head to his completion event later in the year. We didn't meet anyone else. After reaching the summit we continued east to the Sim of Glac Raineach - this involved a pleasant wander along the ridge, then a tedious search for the highest outcrop. Eventually we headed down the dry grassy slopes toward the road, arriving just to the east of the crag-fall of three years or so ago and left with a sizeable trot back along the road in the hot sun. Did find a good six point antler along the way. A lady in a big white van pulled over to greet us like some long lost kin...maybe she recognised us from WH, or maybe she thought we were other people, but anyway she was lovely, as was her gorgeous collie Ziggy...an obvious "hill-head".
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Down towards Glac Raineach
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Al, on Flickr
Spidean Mialach from the east
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
We pitched the tent in the same spot we'd used the night before, but this now being Friday I suspected things would be busier. Right enough, when we were sitting down to our tea a camper arrived - but he was fine, never heard a peep from him. Quite a lot of cars passed heading further down the road. We went to bed quite early as a chill wind had got up. After 10 another van pulled up - 2 guys who just yakked until after three in the morning. Maybe you don't think people can hear you inside your tin contraption, but oh yes, they can. And another sound I've grown to hate is the slide-clunk of camper van doors opening or shutting. Especially when it goes on every 10 minutes or so. If folk want to talk all night long, then find a place to park where you are not going to keep other people awake in doing so. I wished I had a hex-spell that would have shrunk their heads like the unfortunate creature in Beetlejuice...
Irritated and with a headache due to lack of sleep we still got up at 7 and drove back towards the dam to set out for Garich. Parking at the dam is now restricted due to the work going on, although it didn't seem like there were any workies there at the weekend. There's a spot for 3 cars about 3/4 of a km before the dam on the east side. Another gorgeous morning with the loch still and reflective. Ground on this notoriously boggy section in was dry and easy going. Just before starting on the hill track we were caught by a guy who had recognised us from WH - he was of to do Sgurr an Fhurain from Glen Kingie. This brought back memories of slogging up there with full packs the first time we climbed the Glen Dessarry hills...oh it was a grim ascent that!
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
We took the much easier path up Garich. No snow in the way here either, just great views. We had an early lunch and decided to head down the western side of Garich, rather than return by the outward route. What I had really wanted to do was add Sgurr More onto Garich, but I had to face facts that we are not fit enough for that at present. The descent is easy, not least because of the fine zigzags that assist descent in the lower segment, coming off Garich Beag. We could see a transverse stalkers path going up Sgurr an Fhurain ahead of us - looked much easier than the lung-bursting route we'd taken. Anyhow, we took the good track down into Glen Kingie. Allison realised she'd dropped her cap and we had to go back - given how special her cap is to her, and she'd just repaired it...so that added about 3km onto the day.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Sgurr a'Mhaoraich
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Al, on Flickr
Sgurr an Fhurain and Sgurr Mor
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Al, on Flickr
The air kept getting hotter, sun beating down - this is April, right? The track reached the forest, and continued, seemingly endlessly. I couldn't remember it being as long going through the forest, when we'd returned from Sgurr na Ciche that first time..it was just a long long walk. Anyway we did reach the boggy path back to the start of the climb up Garich and were joined by our Corbetteer from earlier, Nick. We had a good talk on the way back to the car - he's a mere dozen left now.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
We were feeling tired from the effects of the heat, and let's face it, from a longer day in the hills than we've had for a while. I was determined that wherever we camped was not going to be troubled by Yahoos in campervans tonight, and managed to find a good spot, away from the road by the river. We tried dipping our feet in the water, but it was so cold that anything longer than 5 seconds was intensely painful. After dinner we luxuriated in the peace and quiet, with just the sound of the river flowing by. Didn't sleep well tonight either, but just lay and relaxed, instead of gnashing impotent teeth against Yahoos.
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Al, on Flickr
Sunday morning - yet another perfect day. Sgurr a'Mhaoraich was our chosen hill for today - I remembered having done this and it's Munro top in under 3 hours, fuelled by grapefruit segments and tortilla chips back in the days when I was fitter. But at least we were both coping with the effects of successive hill days with less problems than last weekend. Driving down to the bridge, there were lots of tents and campervans dotted along the road. Another fine path up the hill, another fine view over to Knoydart, with Skye hazy in the distance. Again no snow to speak of reaching the summit. We continued down to the Munro Top where we sat and had lunch gazing down Loch Hourn, another of my favourite vistas.
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Al, on Flickr
The long back of Garich
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
I'd realised that Sgurr Thionaill, to the north of us, was another Sim, and that if we descended by the Am Bathaich route, we'd be quite near to it...so we contoured round the northwest side of the mountain to near your goal. Lots of ups and downs over the ridge to reach the base of Sgurr Thionaill, then another 120m ascent. However it was a very rewarding Sim, with great views towards the south Kintail ridge. We tracked back to pick up the path over Am Bathaich and then down the grassy zigzags to the River Quoich. At times I felt I was on an Escher staircase and was never getting any lower, as the increments by which one descends on these zigzags are so small. Eventually we made it back to tarmac - lots of new Hydro works since we were first here in 2013.
Sgurr Thionaill
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Back to the car just before 5pm, comfortably tired and ready for the drive back home. We stopped off at Aldi in Fort William for something to eat. As time was getting on, I hoped the A82 past Tarbet might be ok - the drive down through Glencoe etc had been fine, with even less snow now on the hills than when we'd gone up. But less than a mile south of Target traffic was at a standstill - I suspect more than half of the inhabitants of Weegiedom had been up Loch Lomondside today, so a swift U-turn and down the A814 for us.