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- Brew with a view and Loch Skein
Date: 5/03/2021
Weather: Cold, Icy, bitter northern wind, sunshine
Company: Myself
Rating: 8/10
Having lived in D&G for almost 5yrs, it was a big monkey on my back that I hadn't visited the Grey Mares Tail. Finding myself with an Easter Monday off and all to myself, I set off.
There was only 1 other car when I started and the chill to be encountered was apparent when I emerged from the car, however this was soon nullified by the steep but well-made tourist path. Despite the obvious impressive feature the Grey Mares Tail was, to me, the curving ridge high above were more enticing.
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The initial climb was tough on stiff legs, but warmed up muscles were then grateful as the path gradually levelled off, and views of the snow dusted amphitheatre above Loch Skein made this all worthwhile. The Loch itself truly is a natural marvel, and I bookmarked this for a visit in less chilly conditions, to enjoy a picnic or two on its shores.
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Skirting the easterly banks, the touch tussocky path soon gave way to scrubby heather and bog that made tough going. I would advise choosing the right conditions for this as any wetter would've been quite unpleasant trudging. I aimed for a fence line that ran adjacent to an old stone dyke. From here I followed this structure, head down against the icy squalls. There was a bright beautiful crisp sunshine flooding the landscape around me, and in between icy blasts I grabbed a quick look to admire.
The ground beside the dyke improved as height was gained, with the surrounding hills starting to provide good shelter to grab a quick brew and bite.
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It wasn't long before I reached the smooth plateau above Loch Skein, which commanded incredible and disorientatingly good views, however the wind was making sure dawdling was of the table, so a quick photo and detour to Lochcraig Head to bag a Donald swiftly followed, before I followed the fence line to Firthybrig head and onwards to White Coomb. There was no other hiker up here, and visibility was incredible. The going was much easier on solid ground, giving me lots of time to admire the surroundings, and acquire great appreciation for the farmers/shepherds who worked on these hills.
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The rounded summit of White Coomb suddenly came upon me and panoramic views to the Galloway Hills, Lake District and Devils Beeftub greeted me. I would have loved to spend longer soaking in the sunshine and enjoying the absolutely astonishing scenery but yet again the wind howled its icy tune into every gap in clothing and I quickly retreated to descend a steep and rocky path. Care is to be taken here.
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After finding a small overhang that offered the best shelter I'd had for the day, I sat with a brew and some lunch to admire Loch Skein and almost see the entire circuit of my walk. I could make out a long train of people now idling up the tourist path towards the Loch, working their Easter eggs off.
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A sense of disappointment fell on me as I realised that the only route back to my car was to rejoin the tourist path and dodge the throngs of people and pushchairs winding up the path. This was the only downside to what had been an extremely rewarding and refreshing maiden hike in the Moffat hills.