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Weather on Friday the 30th of April was very similar to the previous two days: sunshine with a chance of snow showers, cold but low winds. A good day for a Graham, Kevin said. The best conditions were supposed to be in the north west, Torridon and Strathcarron in particular, so we took the opportunity to revisit another hill we really loved the first time:
Creag Dhubh Mhor. The full traverse of this small mountain is simply one of the most enjoyable ridge walks we have ever done. The inner sanctuary between Creag Dhubh Mhor and its subsidiary top, Carn Geuradainn, dotted with lochans situated on different levels, kept us entertained for hours. During
our first visit we approached the Graham using the path along Eas na Creige Duibhe Moire gorge and returned using another path, the right of way to Bedronaig bothy. This is definitely the best way to climb this Graham and, as in the case of Sgùrr a'Gharaidh the day before, we decided to repeat the old route. We were not disappointed. Despite showers passing over, we really enjoyed the inner sanctuary of Creag Dhubh Mhor
In the village of Achintee, where the Bedronaig path starts, there is space for a couple of cars by the power station. Alternatively, one could park in Strathcarron (I think there's free car park by the railway station) and walk a short distance along the road. Both paths are signposted at the beginning and are obvious enough to follow.
Over a stile and into the gorse jungle:
Strathcarron and Loch Carron from the initial stage of the path:
After about 0.5km, the path joins a well-beaten track leading to a small hydro dam. Four years ago when we first visited this spot, the dam was still under construction and the area looked very messy. It has been tidied up since and though the track is still a scar in the landscape, at least it no longer looks like a building site.
We were glad to leave the hydro structures behind and dive into the wilderness:
Soon we spied the path again and followed it into the gorge of Eas na Creige Duibhe Moire:
As we gained height, more and more distant mountains came into view, that including the Cuillin ridge:
Maol Chean-dearg and An Ruadh Stac:
Above the gorge, our approach path became quite boggy, so we left it and aimed for a wide grassy gully which offers the easiest way up to gain the ridge:
About half way up the steep section, we noticed a shower chasing us. It proved to be the first of many yet to come, but luckily, most of them missed us, passing to the north or south of Creag Dhubh Mhor.
Kevin facing the snow:
With my husband busy photographing the weather anomalies, I turned my eyes up...only to spot an eagle gliding silently over me!
Another shower threatening us, this one coming right at us from the direction of Lurg Mhor:
Yet another one, this time too far away to reach us:
We climbed out of the gully and onto the ridge and I posed with the most spectacular of the showers behind me, just to show off
:
Spectacular! Today the "net curtain effect" was even better than the day before. Kevin spent most time with his camera up and running!
The final climb to the summit:
On the summit of Creag Dhubh Mhor, admiring the superb vistas to the west. The edge of one of the showers can just be seen to the right hand side:
The Cuillin of Sky once again, before it disappeared behind white curtain:
The ridge yet to come:
The shower arrived just as we sat down to have our cuppa, so after a few sips we decided to leave lunch for later and just wait for the snow to pass. Thankfully, the shower didn't last long and soon we were descending due west towards the first of many lochans:
I looked for pockets of easy scramble, but there was little to really challenge me at this stage. The best scrambling opportunities come later:
Panoramic view of the main summit of Creag Dhubh Mhor from below:
Last time, we descended into the sanctuary to the lowest of the chain of lochs, Loch a'Choire Odhair, this time, just to vary the route, we followed the western edge of the ridge, which offered good views north to the Torridons (and all the weather boiling up around them):
Carn Geuradainn and the middle lochan:
Kevin loves rocky, bumpy terrain with multiple outcrops, there's always something interesting to photograph!
We strolled along the wide ridge, visiting every mini-top and photographing every nook and cranny. Someone might ask why we wasted so much time, but for us, BEING THERE is just as important as reaching the top. It's about feeling the mountains in your bloodstream. Absorbing the beauty of nature with your whole body and mind. Might sound silly, but for me at least, the hills have such a fantastic "reviving" ability. After the depressing months of COVID, it's what we need to stay sane.
Creag Dhubh Mhor with Lurg Mhor/Cheescake duo behind:
Panoramic version, Loch a'Choire Odhair is the smaller body of water to the right:
Two more lochans, these located in Coire Dubh, west of Carn Geuradainn:
Water above, water below, water everywhere
At least there was no water in my boots!
It is simply an amazing landscape, every five minutes, every 100m of walking the perspective changes. No wonder Kevin couldn't take his eyes of the sanctuary...
I sniffed some scrambling...
...but Kevin was still too bewildered to photograph my clumsy efforts of clambering over rocks. Instead, he just gazed in the distance:
The mountains of West Monar seen from near the trig point of Carn Geuradainn:
The moss-covered trig point of Carn Geuradainn is surrounded by a stone shelter, a good spot for the delayed lunch, but first - let's strike a pose!
Lucy admiring the tops of Torridon:
The ridge continues over several more small tops, no compulsory scrambling though, a couple of steeper sections but nothing too taxing:
Is there a better way to spend a day than munching your sandwiches with THIS view in front of you?
Looking back to the tops surrounding the sanctuary from the western end of the ridge. Creag Dhubh Mhor in the middle, Carn Geuradainn to the right:
Descending to the Bedronaig path:
Walking back didn't take long; as a matter of fact, we spent more time lurking around the sanctuary than walking in/out. What a fantastic day it was, despite the passing showers. We will certainly return to this hill in the future, maybe even in winter conditions. It may not be a big mountain (just about a Graham at 612m) but what it lacks in height, it gains in character.
Our next trip will take us to Badrallach, to the top of Mountain of the Goat also known as "Valkiria's Tits". It was too cold for naked breasts, but warm enough for wildlife, including countless lizards. TR in progress.
