free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
We had visited this lovely corner of the western coast before, spending a long time photographing the sea stacks of Camas Mhor, but never bothered to climb An Cuaidh, the highest point of the Melvaig peninsula. The top classifies as Sub'2 Marylin and offers nice views to the hills of western Assynt and Coigach. Weather forecast was similar to previous days: sunny spells, a chance of snow showers, a bit windier than recently. Having visited several Grahams, we thought we could have an easier day and combine a low hill with a good coastal walk, as a final accent to our April holidays.
We decided to walk the circuit from the car park at the end of the public road at Melvaig, though it is now possible to drive up to the lighthouse. Several small parking areas have been marked along the single track to Rubha Reidh, the main car park just south of the lighthouse has room for 5-6 cars (and of course it was packed full when we walked past on our way back) but we were more ambitious and thought, it would be a bigger challenge to do the full circuit, including a visit to the top of An Cuaidh.
Getting ready:
The morning was reasonable but we knew today showers might be more persistent. The first one soon appeared over the horizon to the north:
The Trotternish ridge of Skye:
The Shiant Islands and the more distant Outer Hebrides:
At some point, we had to stop and put on waterproofs as the shower was now charging towards us. Luckily, it didn't last long and by the time we climbed up the track to the masts at Maol Breac, it was gone:
Kevin cleaning his precious camera:
The easy going ends past the masts. To reach the trig point of An Cuaidh, we had to find our way across 1km of bog and peat hags, but soon we found out that the devil was not as black as painted. It may look like a bogfeast from the distance...
![2021-05-02 rubha reidh 032.JPG]()
- Can you spot the trig point?
...but most hags are narrow (can be jumped over) or dry enough to simply walk across them. We even spotted a faint path!
![2021-05-02 rubha reidh 035.JPG]()
- Hags, hags everywhere...
We noticed several showers passing to the north of us but luck was on our side. We were granted fantastic views of Assynt hills, especially Suilven:
The Graham we climbed the day before - Beinn Ghobhlach and Sail Mhor - An Teallach massif, partially obstructed by cloud:
By the trig point with Lucy (her 21st Sub):
Looking back to the masts:
The Cuillin ridge of Skye:
This cloud just south of us looked very suspicious:
Showers passing over Assynt hills:
We returned to the masts and continued north across the boggy moorland for another km or so, to reach a small bump at the top of Camas Mhor cliffs (marked 233m on 1-25k map). Here we found a large stone to sit on and have our traditional tea and cookies, sinking in more views, before (what we feared) the next shower hit us.
What a view...
Later, we descended to the edge of the cliff, to pick up one of several paths alongside:
It seemed that the nasty cloud slowed down and was just hanging around the southern sky, but we voted against descending to the beach of Camas Mhor, just in case weather decided to turn nasty. It was too cold for any beach activities anyway, but not too cold for a warm smile when posing with the view
Panoramic view of the beach:
I love this particular spot on the western coast of Scotland, water always looks so green here! Would you believe it is not a tropical beach?
![2021-05-02 rubha reidh 326.JPG]()
- Camas Mhor posing as Costa del Sol?
This must be the Ullapool-Stornoway ferry:
Because the weather was still holding, we took time wandering along the cliffs back to the lighthouse. We met several groups of people doing the same - with the access to the upper end of the road this area is again busy with tourists. We didn't mind. Enough room for everybody!
The stacks of Camas Mhor:
Ben More Coigach (right), Cul Mor and Stac Pollaidh (middle) as well as Canisp and Suilven (left):
Kevin on the edge:
We were followed around by a certain curious local, watching us all the time:
![2021-05-02 rubha reidh 205.JPG]()
- What are you doing on MY cliffs!!!
The natural arch seen from above:
Another snap of the same arch with the higher cliffs in the background:
The coastal path eventually took us back to the lighthouse, the area around it was full of people, cars and bikes, so after a few more photos, we decided to head back to the car.
Weather actually held all the way back and we enjoyed a lovely, dry stroll along the tarmac road, with great views across the sea to the islands, especially Skye:
Back in Melvaig, contemplating life, universe and everything
So that was the last of our April holidays, but our adventures are far from over! My next TR will be about a remote Graham in the north-west of Scotland. A long walk in but with views to kill for. Report to follow soon.
