Buachaille Etive Mor (with raven)
Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2021 6:41 pmOn the last full day of our week in Scotland the weather improved. We’d driven down from Torridon the night before having walked Ben Eighe in low cloud and drizzle. The day broke cloudy but with the promise of something better. Parking in the Devil’s Staircase layby (another off-day for Old Harry?) on the A82 directly opposite the North end of BEM.
We took the route on the website, so no map attached.
Across the River Coupall and into the Coire na Tulaich, the path up was rough and bouldery. We passed six climbers in hard hats, who presumably started a lot earlier than us, they looked pleased with themselves. We made the belach in good time, had a snack and headed Northeast up the pyramid of Stob Dearg (1022m), large boulders and loose quartzite rubble made it a dreary trudge despite the magnificent views. Ahead on the peak there were three figures, two lads who were standing around chatting and one large raven who was lurking. One of the lads, who it turned out were out from Dundee for a day, was wearing a dressing gown. There being no tent visible we had to ask – it turns out it was a bet with his brother that he could climb the Curved Ridge in his pyjamas.
The raven was even more persistent than the one on Aonach Eagach we encountered a week earlier, whichever way I pointed the camera it was there. I fed it a few nuts and raisins and it went off happy.
We headed off South leaving the Dundee lads to chat. The great thing about the Big Bookle is the undulating ridge that twists and turns a little; it’s wide enough to stroll along, and the peaks make it interesting. With every change there are great views, across to the Little Bookle, the AE ridge and Biden nam Biam and the other way towards the Black Mount and Glen Etive. We met several people along the way and chatted, as you do, but it never seemed busy. One of the joys of hillwalking is the chance to meet people who will give you the time of day and are always happy to share their experiences. In three weeks of walking we have only met two people who didn't want to stop and chat; well good luck to them, they are missing out.
We wandered over Feadan Ban, Stob na Doire (1101m) and Stob Coire Altruim (941m) before reaching the second Munro, Stob na Broige (956m).
The view down Glen Etive were stupendous. Time to turn for home (actually the Clacaigh Inn) for dinner. The path down into Lairig Gartain, was well made and came out at the lovely stream which feeds into the River Coupall. In the evening sunshine the whole valley was bathed in a beautiful light, a great end to a great day out in the hills.
Postscript: having no need to get home early, the next day we spent the morning in Coire Gabhail; Ben bouldering and i reconnoitring the route for next years visit. Having noted the streams of walkers going up to Biden nam Bian we opted for the Beinn Fhada ridge as the best approach. Ben got bitten by so many midges he looked as though he had measles, I escaped unscathed. In the car park on the M6 we got accosted by a large crow for snacks, no doubt word had spread what soft touches we were.
A note on pronunciation: according to a Scot I met the day before my pronunciation of the ridge name as Bookalaylee Eteeve Moor was somewhat incorrect. I’m beginning to suspect that this gallic name thing is a wind up for those of us who live South of the border. Coming from Norfolk we are used to an occasional missing letter in names but usually one at a time, not every other one. I expect that the next time I meet a Scot the pronunciation will have changed again!
We took the route on the website, so no map attached.
- The Munro peak of Stob Dearg, the tourist route is straight up the Coire, the scrambling routes round to the left
- Lairig Gartain, no glaciers were harmed in the forming of this valley
- River Coupall and The Little Bookle (Stob Coire Raineach)
- The rocky route up the Coire na Tulaich
- The view from the belach, devil's staircase and car park down in the Glen
- The first of many rests; before the route up Stob Dearg
- Coire na Tulaich with the eastern Mamores and Grey Corries in the distance
- The zig-zag route up
Across the River Coupall and into the Coire na Tulaich, the path up was rough and bouldery. We passed six climbers in hard hats, who presumably started a lot earlier than us, they looked pleased with themselves. We made the belach in good time, had a snack and headed Northeast up the pyramid of Stob Dearg (1022m), large boulders and loose quartzite rubble made it a dreary trudge despite the magnificent views. Ahead on the peak there were three figures, two lads who were standing around chatting and one large raven who was lurking. One of the lads, who it turned out were out from Dundee for a day, was wearing a dressing gown. There being no tent visible we had to ask – it turns out it was a bet with his brother that he could climb the Curved Ridge in his pyjamas.
- The peak of Stob Dearg, two Dundee lads and raven
- Ben has a chat, note dressing gown and stylish socks
- The King of the Big Bookle
The raven was even more persistent than the one on Aonach Eagach we encountered a week earlier, whichever way I pointed the camera it was there. I fed it a few nuts and raisins and it went off happy.
- Quoth the raven 'where's my nuts & raisins?'
- Little Bookle with Aonach Eagach beyond, with raven
- Bidean nam Bian, with raven
- Heading South off Stob Dearg
We headed off South leaving the Dundee lads to chat. The great thing about the Big Bookle is the undulating ridge that twists and turns a little; it’s wide enough to stroll along, and the peaks make it interesting. With every change there are great views, across to the Little Bookle, the AE ridge and Biden nam Biam and the other way towards the Black Mount and Glen Etive. We met several people along the way and chatted, as you do, but it never seemed busy. One of the joys of hillwalking is the chance to meet people who will give you the time of day and are always happy to share their experiences. In three weeks of walking we have only met two people who didn't want to stop and chat; well good luck to them, they are missing out.
- The peak of Stob na Doire
- Stob Dearg from the South
- Beyond, the peak of Stob Coire Altruim
- The South end of the ridge from Stob na Doire
- Bidean nam Bian with Stob Dubh and Beinn Fhada in foreground
- On the South slope of Stob na Doire down to the belach , the exit path to the belach can be seen going down to the right.
- The belach
- Up onto Stob Coire Altruim
- Stob na Doire from the South
- West flank of Buachaill Etive Mor
We wandered over Feadan Ban, Stob na Doire (1101m) and Stob Coire Altruim (941m) before reaching the second Munro, Stob na Broige (956m).
- The last hill, Stob na Broige
- The long ridge
- Beautiful Glen Etive,
- Ben
- The wanderer
- Beinn Ceitlein & Stob Dubh- fissures caused by seismic activity are all over this area
The view down Glen Etive were stupendous. Time to turn for home (actually the Clacaigh Inn) for dinner. The path down into Lairig Gartain, was well made and came out at the lovely stream which feeds into the River Coupall. In the evening sunshine the whole valley was bathed in a beautiful light, a great end to a great day out in the hills.
- Watching two walkers take the wrong route down, eventually they heard our shouts.
- The right route down, great path.
- At the bottom of the Lairig Gartain where streams converge
- The bealach between Stob na Doire and Stob Coire Altruim, note strange colour sky.
- A magical evening for a walk out
- Lengthening shadows.
Postscript: having no need to get home early, the next day we spent the morning in Coire Gabhail; Ben bouldering and i reconnoitring the route for next years visit. Having noted the streams of walkers going up to Biden nam Bian we opted for the Beinn Fhada ridge as the best approach. Ben got bitten by so many midges he looked as though he had measles, I escaped unscathed. In the car park on the M6 we got accosted by a large crow for snacks, no doubt word had spread what soft touches we were.
- Crossing the stream with boulder mats
- Lost valley boulder
- The route home, note crowds on left heading up to Bidean nam Bian
A note on pronunciation: according to a Scot I met the day before my pronunciation of the ridge name as Bookalaylee Eteeve Moor was somewhat incorrect. I’m beginning to suspect that this gallic name thing is a wind up for those of us who live South of the border. Coming from Norfolk we are used to an occasional missing letter in names but usually one at a time, not every other one. I expect that the next time I meet a Scot the pronunciation will have changed again!