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North Ridge Spidean a' Choire Leith

North Ridge Spidean a' Choire Leith


Postby Cairngorm creeper » Fri Jun 11, 2021 11:05 pm

Munros included on this walk: Spidean a' Choire Lèith (Liathach)

Date walked: 07/06/2021

Distance: 11.5 km

Ascent: 1101m

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We have walked up Liathach by the classic route and some less popular approaches, but never from the north. With its steep sandstone crags and towering pinnacle much of the north face is the domain of rock climbers and winter climbers, and beyond us! However, the North Ridge of Spidean a' Choire Leith, which separates Coireag Dubh Mor and Coire na Caime, and leads directly up to the summit offers a less demanding and technical ascent. The Guide Books classify it as a moderate climb if you stick to the arête or suggest it can be tackled as grade 1/2 scramble by staying to right of the arete on steep grass. It was our aim to stick to the arête as much as possible, which we managed with the help of a 20m rope and a small amount climbing gear.
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Map of the route

We started out from the main Beinn Eighe carpark at 8am following the Coire Dubh Mhor path between Liathac and Beinn Eighe, hearts beating faster at the sight of these two magnificent mountains. It almost seemed sacrilegious to be aiming for an alternative route, but then, as we came around the eastern end of Liathach and crossed the Allt Coire Dubh Mhor we could see our target, the North Ridge, on the skyline.
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North Ridge of Spidean on the skyline

It was a perfect June day for hill walking, warm without being hot and enough of a breeze to keep the midges at bay. We continued on the path to the point where it divides to climb up to Coire Mhic Fhearchair then doubled back for a few metres before crossing the Allt Coire Dhub, (although there was very little of it), to meet up with a burn flowing down from Coireag Dubh Mor. It was a delightful walk on a faint path by the side of the waterfall, with Marsh Orchids and Violets in flower by ones feet and the impressive tiers of rock in the coire ahead.
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Following the burn

Before reaching the coire floor, at a band of rock, we filled our water bottles from the stream, and headed right to gain the ridge.
The lower section of the ridge was broad, lots of loose stones and boulder to go up, plus some easy scrambling and a couple of horrible steep slimy steps, one of which reduced me to my hands and knees :roll: :lol: .
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Lower slope of the Ridge

As the ridge narrowed we walked around the first bands of rock to find the perfect spot for lunch.
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The Strath Lungard to Loch Maree.
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A brew with a view!

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Meall Dearg & Northern Pinnacles

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Beinn Alligin and Beinn Dearg

Restored and sustained it was onwards and upwards
It would have been quite possible to walk around the next tier of rocks and then to avoid many of the difficulties by keeping right but our objective was to climb the arete, and so time to stop faffing and get on with it.
The initial scrambling was straightforward.
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Easy scrambling

But then it became steeper and more exposed so we roped up. The rock was very rough and the climbing was not technical, but then it may have felt far more tenuous without the rope!
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Looking up the North Ridge

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Steep and exposed but grippy!

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The steepiness eased of but rather than untie from the rope we moved together along the narrow ridge then made an exposed traverse to regain the true arete! The traverse was avoidable, but fun!
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Exposed traverse to regain the arete!
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The final difficulty
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The summit of Spidean is in sight
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Looking across the Coire wall to Beinn Eighe
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The blocks of shattered Quartz on route to the summit felt treacherous to cross.
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Although the steepest sections were more stable.
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Summit Spidean a' Choire Leith.
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Looking across to Beinn Eighe on the descent.

We followed the main route from Spidean back to the road, and were. surprised at how loose and eroded the footpath seemed. It did seem to have deteriorated since we were last that way and I don't think it was just because we were tired.
I was concerned that I had lost what little fitness and tolerance I had for scrambling over the past year so was very pleased to have completed this route with no real difficulty or major outbreaks of squeaking. The varied nature of the route also provided lots of opportunities for practising scrambling skills that had grown a but rusty over the last year!
The North Ridge of Spidean may not be an alternative to the classic Liathach traverse but was a great day out with superb views in addition to the exciting scrambling
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Cairngorm creeper
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Re: North Ridge Spidean a' Choire Leith

Postby gaffr » Sat Jun 12, 2021 12:19 pm

Hello, This report had me scrambling back to my archives for 1979. :) A Grantown Grammar School group for their Award Scheme trip over four days asked me to check them out over the four days. Their schedule was train to Achnashellach then up through Coulin Estate to have a camp near to Kinlochewe. I caught up with them the following day on the East ridge of Beinn Eighe. Saw what was going on during the traverse out to the main summits and down in the great Coire to end the day with a camp below the The North side of Liathach. The third day out was up the steep ground that Is the North ridge of Spidean a'Choire Leith. Steep ground but avoiding the rock features. Traverse of Liathach, camp for the lads a the bottom of the Glen. I had an overnight's accommodation in a wee cottage near Annat that the Teachers/ Supervisor for the award had Booked....one of whom ran me back up the Glen to reach my Mini van.
The groups fourth day was over Sgorr Ruadh and down for their train home from Achnashellach....I saw them onto the train after a day pleasant day spent with one of the adults on Moruisg and Sgurr nan Ceannaichean.
Scotland is just made for such trips in the hills. :)
Thanks for the images of your trip.
Just realised that you too are from Grantown on Spey. :lol:
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gaffr
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Re: North Ridge Spidean a' Choire Leith

Postby Cairngorm creeper » Sat Jun 12, 2021 9:43 pm

gaffr wrote:Hello, This report had me scrambling back to my archives for 1979. :) A Grantown Grammar School group for their Award Scheme trip over four days asked me to check them out over the four days. Their schedule was train to Achnashellach then up through Coulin Estate to have a camp near to Kinlochewe. I caught up with them the following day on the East ridge of Beinn Eighe. Saw what was going on during the traverse out to the main summits and down in the great Coire to end the day with a camp below the The North side of Liathach. The third day out was up the steep ground that Is the North ridge of Spidean a'Choire Leith. Steep ground but avoiding the rock features. Traverse of Liathach, camp for the lads a the bottom of the Glen. I had an overnight's accommodation in a wee cottage near Annat that the Teachers/ Supervisor for the award had Booked....one of whom ran me back up the Glen to reach my Mini van.
The groups fourth day was over Sgorr Ruadh and down for their train home from Achnashellach....I saw them onto the train after a day pleasant day spent with one of the adults on Moruisg and Sgurr nan Ceannaichean.
Scotland is just made for such trips in the hills. :)
Thanks for the images of your trip.
Just realised that you too are from Grantown on Spey. :lol:

Thats sounds a grand trip for the Grammar School pupils, & good memories to have. They were a lot fitter than us! :lol: Although funnily enough we are planning our next adventure for for Sgorr Ruadh.
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Cairngorm creeper
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Posts: 716
Munros:147   Corbetts:24
Fionas:6   Donalds:1
Sub 2000:1   Hewitts:15
Wainwrights:9   
Joined: Jun 4, 2013
Location: Grantown-on-spey

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