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When I was climbing Ben Alder on May Bank Holiday, and I should have been 100 % immersed in the delights of scrambling on the Long Leachas – I’d been looking forward to it for so long after all – I found myself strangely distracted by the adjoining ridge. Not the lumps and bumps of The Short Leachas to our south, which must be pretty exhilerating, but the sharp blade of Lancet Edge to our north. I could picture myself on the narrow path running up the ridgeline and imagined the views there would be! The thing was, I’d already planned a trip to take in the 4 munros north of Ben Alder – Carn Dearg, Geal Charn, Aonach Beag and Beinn Eibhinn - and it did not include stepping foot on the Lancet Edge, because as the Walkhighlands guide to the Munros says “the finest feature, the exposed arete of the Lancet Edge gives a thrilling route for scramblers but rather inconveniently for Munro-baggers it reaches the ridge halfway along!” Inconvenient? You’re not kidding – a scamble is the best bit surely? But most of the guide books seem to take in these 4 summits in one go by walking a fairly extended loop, and in my quest to up my munro tally I was happy to go along with this idea – until I saw what I’d be missing. A bit more research and I found that not all said that though - my SMC Hillwalkers Guide divides the peaks into western and eastern pairs, with the approach to Geal Charn being up the Lancet Edge, making for a shorter day but with plenty of drama. Of course that’s not taking account of the fact you need to get there in the first place, but even so, this route was looking much more up my street [or narrow scramble path at least
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Fired up by these thoughts after the weekend I’d just had on Ben Alder, I was impatient to put the amended plan into action, and I called on another friend who I knew would enjoy the adventure. We met by the railway bridge in Dalwhinnie at 5pm and loaded up our bikes.
I had just come down from the plateau opposite, having spent the afternoon trudging round the A’ Bhuidheanach Bheag – Carn na Caim circuit, because it had to be done! So I was keen to get back to some more exciting mountain scenery! It was interesting to follow the track up the side of Loch Ericht rather than paddle up it in a canoe, as we had last week. The estate buildings dotted along the water’s edge are even more impressive when you see them close up, with their fine granite stonework, turret features, gates etc.
The track itself was good to cycle along, although I was also aware of how limited we were in carting all our gear either on our backs or strapped on the bike rack compared to the copious storage available in the canoes which we’d been happy to fill with all sorts of camping luxuries!
Once we’d turned inland past Ben Alder Lodge, the wilderness setting of the mountain range is much more apparent across the lower lying bog land.
Good views of Loch Pattack gleaming just ahead as we took the grassy track leading off to Culra Bothy.
It took a lot of concentration to keep the front wheel in the narrow rut of the path for the next half an hour or so, but it was certainly a lot better than most of the cycle approaches to munros I’ve come across in the past! I think we were the last to arrive that evening, and I counted 8 tents already there.
- Almost there at last!
Still plenty of spots though along the river bank, and we were settled in and fed just in time as an unexpected shower of rain appeared from nowhere, and a stiff breeze buffeted the tents.
- We went to have a quick nosey at the bothy as it started to get dark.....photo looks like the start of a horror movie in that rather eerie light!
- Some early morning brightness looks promising
Low cloud was hanging over the summits in the morning but was starting to lift by the time we set off for the day’s walk.
- Whoops - on the wrong side of the water girls, but hey ho you'll find out shortly....
While I was tramping the Drumochter Plateau yesterday I’d managed to lose my glasses which isn’t ideal for map reading, so the first mistake of the day was to head up the Bealach Dubh on the wrong side of the river. For some reason I’d got it in my head there’d be another footbridge further up, because I knew the rivers here can be impassable after rain or snow melt. For those who know the area, of course I was wrong but realised it as soon as the path turned up hill towards Ben Alder, and we ended up doing a bit of a wobbly crossing of both the main river – Allt à Bhealaich Dubh – and its equally fierce tributary - Allt à Bhealaich Beithe - where they joined. It certainly wouldn’t have been possible with a heavier flow!
- Sandwiched between 2 good scrambly ridges - The Long Leachas to our left and The Lancet Edge - our destination - to the right.
We entered the narrower head of the glen between the Long Leachas of Ben Alder, and the Lancet Edge of Sgor Lutharn. Impressive crags towering to either side. No sign of any path up the nose but we knew the route was to head straight up the grassy slopes just past the first set of crags until the ridge narrowed, at which point a faint path would miraculously appear, and lead us upwards. And so it was! With all the joy of a nice airy scramble, without any technical difficulties and fantastic views in all directions.
- Looking over the Lancet Edge towards the eastern edge of the plateau on Geal Charn where you descend towards Carn Dearg
- Looking up at some of the crags on Lancet Edge - but not doing it justice at all!
- Looking back down the ridge....
- The summit cairn of Sgor Lutharn
Surprisingly we had it to ourselves as well, and as with all good things it came to an end all too soon at the small summit cairn of Sgor Lutharn, beyond which the character changed completely; a broad ridge down and then a pull up the rocky slopes to the plateau of Geal Charn. Out with the compass just to make sure we hit the high spot before crossing grassy ground to the summit cairn.
- Just checking the route across the plateau - you need good eye sight but the pin prick on the horizon to the right is the summit of Geal Charn!
- Aonach Beag and Beinn Eibhinn from Geal Charn's summit cairn - you could almost reach out and touch them, but they'll have to wait!
Clear to see why many do go on to take in the next 2 munros to the west – Aonach Beag and Beinn Eibhinn looked tantalisingly close along nicely dipping and rising grassy ridges. But we decided to stick to our guns and turned east instead – back across the plateau towards Carn Dearg. As the guide suggested we aimed for the high ground just north of the spur that drops steeply off, to make sure we found it yes, but also to take in the full extent of the mountain’s impressive eastern edge.
- The impressive craggy eastern edge of the plateau - looking for the steep route off
- The steep ridge leading to Carn Dearg becomes apparent - but wouldn't like to be looking for it in poor visibility!
The steep narrow descent required a bit of care, but soon we were on a more level ridge with mountain lochs to either side and a great view back across Lancet Edge.
- A different angle on the morning's airy climb
- Looking back at the eastern edge of the Geal Charn plateau with the narrow ridge across to Carn Dearg
- The remnants of the winter/spring snow feeding some interesting waterfalls along the crags
- Looking south to The Lancet Edge, Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil
Relatively easy walking and hopping over the rocky ridge to the summit of Carn Dearg. Quite nice to have an easier 2nd one!
- Whoop - 2nd summit of the day - Carn Dearg!
And who’d have thought – a direct line of sight back down to the Bothy. Surely just drop off the side then? Fine for those of us with good enough knees, but not so much fun for some others... sorry partner, I felt bad and I’ll remember for next time!
- Taking in the day's route - out along the valley, up Lancet Edge, over Geal Charn to the summit of Carn Dearg - now just the down bit to be done!
- Arty shot of some fierce bog monsters - okay it's just a tree stump, but it had been a long tiring way back down the hillside and the light was playing tricks.....
- Relieved to be back on flat ground again! Curious to know what was inside the big shuttered Culra Lodge.
Back at the campsite all the tents had gone already except ours, and the last remaining stragglers were loading their bikes. A guy flew past us on the track towards Loch Pattack and I wondered what that was like further along – it’s made for vehicles and is a bit longer, but would it have been easier for a bike than wobbling along the narrow ruts on the southern leg we’d come in on?
24 hours after we’d started, we arrived back in Dalwhinnie. The Lancet Edge under my belt and it was well worth the change of plan. Of course now I need to go back and do the 2 western munros of the quartet, but I’ve already got a different idea! I enjoyed the Lancet Edge so much that I’m going to do it again – same route from Culra Bothy – up Lancet Edge and over Geal Charn then go west to take in Aonach Beag and Beinn Eibhinn before skirting the lower slopes to the head of Bealach Dubh and back along the valley. That exhilirating scramble to the top deserves at least one more go!