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Lagangarbh Buttress (Wrong Turn = Climb)

PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2021 5:29 pm
by Stripey Hat Guy
Had have a day time on my hand and decided to go up the Buachaille Etive Mor via the Lagangarbh Buttress. I have only seen some pictures before hand (I know...but my book was delayed and the weather was perfect) and decided I would give it a go as I really enjoyed the other routes up on the Buachaille Etive Mor.

Anyway the entrance was easy to find and the whole route had amazingly grippy stone and wasn't to exposed to this point until I reached the the top of the first bump! Here I got a great view to the final big Buttress which was standing just Infront of me - unfortunately I thought my scramble route was leading up there and tried to different approaches up, both ended up vertically so I needed to down limb like 10 meters to reach an evil steep scree ravine/gully which I left as soon as I could and finally finding back to the right route. The rest of the scramble was again fairly easy and looking now afterwards at my scramble book it is really mad how far off I was with my "own" approach.

The Lagangarbh Buttress is in my eyes the better curved ridge - lonely, steep and exposed (never to difficult when you pick the right route ;-) ).

I did a video memory of the tour, clearly marked where I took the wrong turn!



When you are a keen scrambler I would highly recommend you a try to one of the lesser known scrambles up the famous Buachaille Etive Mor.

ATB Stripey

Re: Lagangarbh Buttress (Wrong Turn = Climb)

PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2021 8:07 pm
by gaffr
Had me thumbing through an old Glencoe guide book for BEM. The wee book has notes of a visit to three routes on Lagangarbh Buttress in 1964. The book gives the descriptions of 10 plus routes on the Buttress at that time. We only got to three of them. Lagangarbh chimney, Crest route and Bollard slab each around 200 feet in length. :)
There is a lot of rock in that area.

Re: Lagangarbh Buttress (Wrong Turn = Climb)

PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 2:06 pm
by Stripey Hat Guy
gaffr wrote:Had me thumbing through an old Glencoe guide book for BEM. The wee book has notes of a visit to three routes on Lagangarbh Buttress in 1964. The book gives the descriptions of 10 plus routes on the Buttress at that time. We only got to three of them. Lagangarbh chimney, Crest route and Bollard slab each around 200 feet in length. :)
There is a lot of rock in that area.



Thanks a lot for looking into the book, can't wait to get back up there with the right equipment 😊