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West Highland Way completed in June 2021
Day 1 - Milngavie to Drymen
Day 2 - Drymen to Rowardennan
Day 3 - Rowardennan to Inverarnan
Day 4 - Inverarnan to Inveroran
Day 5 - Inveroran to Kinlochleven
Day 6 - Kinlochleven to Fort William
Day 1 – Milngavie to Drymen - 22km - 4 hours
So this was my first ever attempt of the WHW and I was doing it solo. The first day I was full of emotions including being excited and a bit nervous of the task ahead. My walk really started from the Premier Inn in Milngavie, with a quick visit to Tesco to stock up on what I needed for the day. I did not expect to find a Salmon Ladder next to the carpark which made me chuckle and at the same time intrigued! The start of the walk takes you through a park, Mugdock Wood then alongside Craigallian Loch….all new places to me and I was soaking in the new surroundings as I walked along. However, I was absolutely taken back with the views of Dumgoyne and the Campsie Fells as I strolled up the path. It helps when the weather was perfect, but it was still a stunning view to take in, and I knew then that this walk was the start of something special. The honesty boxes on the walk are brilliant. I had a much needed ice lolly from the honesty box at Gartness to combat the heat and sun…..it went down very well!! I got to Drymen Camping where I was staying for the first night a bit too early. So I decided to walk onto Drymen for a nosey around and lunch. Popped into the Drymen Inn for food which was absolutely perfect, and the service was top notch. Then it was a wee walk back to Drymen Camping to check in and pitch the tent. I felt quite pleased with myself even though I knew it was the shortest day of my route, I just wanted to ease myself into the way.
Day 2 – Drymen to Rowardennan - 25km - 6 hours
As I left the campsite at 8.30am, walking up the road I could already feel the sun on the back of my neck and I knew then that this day was going to be a scorcher! The walk through the forest was quite pleasant with some lovely views ahead. But after a few hours, I was quite pleased to reach Balmaha for a Lorne roll and cold can of juice! After a wee rest and checking out the Tom Weir statue I was on my way again. I have to admit that the walk through Craigie Fort did throw me off guard as I questioned myself was this the right way?! Quickly after my wee wobble, I came across this stunning beachline after coming down from Craigie Fort. There was not a single soul to be seen. It was heavenly having the place to myself for a short while, taking in the views once again and thinking how lucky are we in Scotland to have places like this. I really enjoyed this part of the walk, looking up ahead, Ben Lomond on the right, remembering the time I went up Ben Lomond with my sore back lol. With the sun beating down on me, I was delighted to reach the hotel at Rowardennan for a meal and cold drink. I took refuge inside out of the sun while just about everyone else was soaking up the rays in the garden. Soon as I finished I had to walk on on as my accommodation for the night was indeed further along…..the Rowardennan Lodge Youth Hostel. Due to the camping ban, I needed somewhere to stay and I was lucky enough to book a room at the hostel. I was even luckier as I had the room that looks out to Loch Lomond. A perfect way to end the day.
Day 3 – Rowardennan to Inverarnan - 22km - 6 hours
I woke up determined…..determined that I was going to smash this day, as this day is the long walk along Loch Lomond. I’ve read and heard many stories about the path turning into a rocky scramble. I’ve heard this is where most walkers give up the WHW. Not me….I was determined. I got to the point where the WHW splits into two paths, the lower and higher paths. I heard the higher path was a proper track and easier on the knees/legs. I had already decided my route and I was taking the higher path to get me through this day. It was fine and easy going, then the path eventually joins back onto the lower path, and while it wasn’t too bad, it felt endless. It was a lovely respite when I reached the Inversnaid Hotel, grabbing another cold juice. The waterfall at the hotel is pretty impressive, and so was the sight of the power station across the water with it’s pipe lines up the hill. After a good break, it’s when you got closer to the Rob Roy’s cave area that the path becomes a scramble! This kind of rocky “path” then continues for an eternity and it was really tough going. I felt as though I was getting nowhere and the scrambling was slowing me down somewhat! But I kept going, pacing myself with a few stops along the way on the wee sandy beaches along the loch. As I got to Ardleish, I had my first rain of the walk. Wet and tired after the tortuous path I’ve been scrambling along I was just desperate to get to my destination now. I was so happy to finally see the Beinglas Campsite and equally glad that I had booked a pod instead of camping so I would be able to dry off and get a good night sleep.
Day 4 – Inverarnan to Inveroran - 35km – 7½ hours
Because I had decided to do the WHW over 6 days, a few of the days would be long walks. This day would be my longest day of the walk, from Beinglas Campsite to the Bridge near Inveroran Hotel.
My intention was stop at quite a few places on the way to refuel myself! The walk along Glen Falloch was really enjoyable, even when I got to the bridge that was washed away…I was able to cross the river without having to detour. The walk through St Fillan’s was very interesting with the church ruins and the old graveyard. I then had a lovely bacon roll at the Strathfillan Wigwams which went down well. At this point it started to rain and I laughed as I remembered reading a sign someplace about how this area is one of the wettest part of Scotland! The Green Welly stop was needed to make sure I had enough food for the rest of the day and next day. It was very strange to walking to the Green Welly rather than in the car as I have done so many times. As I walked along the old military road in the rain, I was looking forward to reaching Bridge of Orchy Hotel for some hot food and drink. However when I got there I was met with a sign on their door stating the hotel was unfortunately shut due to COVID. One might mump and groan about it but in reality, there’s nothing you can do about it but walk on. It really cannot be helped! I thought it’s fine, just this last stretch then I can get something at the Inveroran Hotel. But my bad luck continued….while the hotel was opened, I was advised that food and drinks was only for those staying in the hotel. It just wasn’t to be! So just beyond the hotel is the bridge where I was wild camping for the night, I pitched the tent and had my supernoodles for tea! I then noticed at one of the firepit next to the bridge, had some kindling that wasn’t used. Looked like someone had tried to have a fire going previously but failed. So I was able to use the kindling left there and got a fire going and it was fantastic after such a long day to be able to relax for the evening with a fire and the surrounding moody looking hills. I also took this opportunity to burn litter that was also left around the firepits! Not long after the fire died out, the wind also died and the midgies came out in force. I have never dived into my tent so quickly before in my life. It was surreal to see the outside of my tent crawling with midgies. I was so happy when the rain came back later that night as it meant no midgies and I was able to get outside for a toilet lol!!
Day 5 – Inveroran to Kinlochleven - 30km – 7 hours
Another beautiful morning and again so thankful of how lucky we are to have this on our doorstep. I had another long day planned to Kinlochleven with a lunch stop at Kingshouse Hotel in Glencoe. Walking the 19th Century Old Glencoe Road was actually a very uncomfortable experience. In fact it was almost agony. I couldn’t wait for it to end! However walking through the vast openness of Black Mount was extremely tough as I was being battered by the crosswind. While it was nice taking in the views, I was absolutely knackered walking into the crosswind. It wasn’t until I got near the ski centre and out of the wind, the walk became more pleasant and of course, you have the magnificent views of Glencoe. It always and still does take my breath away whenever I see Glencoe. I stopped to have a quick bacon roll at the hotel…but I decided to have 2 rolls and take my time. I was in no rush anywhere. Then when I finally decided to shift myself, I went outside….low and behold a few deers were at the hotel’s pond. Another one of the many highlights on my walk. A huge smile on my face as I continue my walk, until I got to the Devil’s Staircase. Yes it’s a bit hard going, but I had my walking poles which definitely helps me and the zig ziggety bits really doesn’t last that long. I guess for me the hardest part of this day walk is the descent into Kinlochleven. Again some more cracking views but boy my legs were beginning to hurt! The descent went on forever and I actually wondered how is it that I can see Kinlochleven but still not be near it lol!! But I finally got to BlackWater Campsite, quickly put up the tent as the midgies were starting to come out and play then I went to the Tailrace Inn for a much-needed delicious meal.
Day 6 – Kinlochleven to Fort William - 26km – 6 hours
And just like that, it’s the last day of the walk. I couldn’t quite believe that I was nearly there. I was already feeling a sense of I don’t want it to be over as I have thoroughly enjoyed the walk. But I was looking forward to seeing my family who were waiting for me at Fort William. The walk along the old military road with the Mamores on the right hand side made for scenic walking, and it was probably about halfway when the might Ben comes into view. I stopped at a good spot and had my lunch looking at Ben Nevis, remembering the time I walked Ben Nevis as a 12 year old Scout in my trainers…..how I managed to do it in trainers I have no idea!! As I was descending towards Glen Nevis I was really beginning to get sore and the WHW was finally now catching up on my old body! I got to the road near the Ben Nevis Carpark and was greeted by my sons which was lovely. Then we walked the final stretch into Fort William together before reaching the old man with sore feet statue with the rest the family. It was truly a lovely way to end the WHW.
I am so glad to have finally done the WHW…..something I’ve always wanted to do but never got round to it. I absolutely recommend this to anyone. I feel a sense of accomplishment. 96 miles over 6 days for me, is no mean feat. But the WHW is also good for the soul. It allows to you escape from normal life for a short while and experience something extraordinary!