Watery Preoccupations; Beinn Suidhe and Loch Dochard

[WeeHills]

our_route.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

Day two of my wee Black Mount excursion starts badly. Last night the pitch had seemed perfect, nice views, a gentle breeze, I slept like a baby. The wind has dropped overnight and as soon as I open my eyes in the morning I see them swarming. Bloody midges. Hoaching doesn't even begin to cover it. Never have I downed a tent so fast. Breakfast is taken in the car and I daren't set foot outside to boil water for coffee. I'll just have to do without today. This does not bode well.

After yesterday's munros I have opted for a less strenuous route today. Beinn Suidhe has caught my eye. It just looks a pleasing hill, and a dauner along Loch Dochard, perhaps a wee dip, seems like a plan. It is going to be a scorcher, none of yesterday's morning mist, the sun is splitting the skies as I set off at 8. Once more I cross Victoria Bridge and turn along the public footpath to Glen Etive. It's on the stony side which I'm not a fan of. I lack caffeine. I've been eaten alive in the approximately 23 seconds it took to rip down the tent. I'm a bit stiff from yesterday. It's already warm and I'm in a bit of a grump. Perhaps I'll skip the hill, not sure I can be bothered.

On the plus side as I approach the green hut I get the views up the Allt Toaig towards the previous day's hills I had missed in the low cloud that time around. Today I don't turn right but continue on along the bank of Abhainn Shira and a very short distance past the hut come to the bypass path round Clashgour Farm. This is much more like it. Stone gives way to grass and dry mud. In normal conditions this would be a bit of a bogfest but it has been very dry of late and the path reflects this. I seem to have walked off the worst of the stiffness and the now pleasant walking has me feeling more perky.

Yesterday's hills

After a time I come to the first of three fords in quick succession. Here are placed stepping stones for giants. Fortunately for puny human sized me the water levels are low enough that the steps are unneeded, I just wander across the pebbles. They do, however, provide a convenient seat to down water (which has remained pleasing cool after 36 hours in a sunbaked car), I'm already feeling the heat, and contemplate Beinn Suidhe ahead. She really is a very pretty hill from this angle. It would be a shame not to. I'll put off making a final decision until I reach the point I had intended to leave the beaten track but by now I'm about 75% sure I'm going up.

Stepping stones for giants, seats for puny humans

Beinn Suidhe sure looks pretty

The second ford has another set of gigantic stepping stones, once more not needed. In wetter weather I think I'd be going for boots off and wade, I wouldn't fancy these huge steps at all, and I do enjoy a wee wade now and again. The third is just stony. Decision time is coming. Approaching my intended left turn upwards near a rickelly bridge someone has left gargantuan rolls of wire. And looking towards the hill I see a pile of what look like fence posts lying on the ground. And then another, and another, and another. Looks as if a new fence is going in pretty much directly along my intended route and blessed be it appears whoever left them has also left an honest to goodness path alongside.

More humungous steps, looking downstream

Last of three fordings, rickelly bridge, rolls of wire and bonny Beinn Suidhe

Soon to be fence posts I presume

Obviously this was meant to be. I'm going up, right after I guzzle more water. It is roasting and I'm regretting the lack of coffee. Nevermind, there are lochans and burns on Beinn Suidhe. I can easily resupply. Or so I assume. I follow the fence posts, again the lower slops would be a bogfest in normal Scottish weather but going is easy today. As I gain height Loch Dochard comes into view, looking inviting. The path and posts take me to just below the steep north east nose of Beinn Suidhe. Time to stop, rehydrate, it is very warm, and consider the route ahead. There are a few options for getting up and around the crags. I settle upon a direct approach. Straight up a steep, grassy rake, then hang a right around the crags above it. Looks doable.

Heading up the convenient path

Loch Dochard looking inviting

The ascent is steep, and though there is a breeze it is in the lee of the wind and I'm soon sweating buckets. I pause half way up to take on board more water and admire the view back down. Then it is on to the top of the section, hot work but not difficult. I had intended to head to the right here but the crags to the left catch my attention so I wander that way to investigate. Sure enough there is an easy scramble to be had up this way, or easy when it's dry anyway. I clamber upwards, this is fun, and soon find myself on the flatter ground at the top. I enjoyed that but goodness me it is hot. Time to select a spot for dinner. I settle down with a view to the loch which I cannot wait to take a dook in, and eat, and drink loads. I'm down to about my last 250ml of water by now, but know there are sources around. Surely I'll find some on route to the summit, or worst case in one of the burns I'm intending to follow down?

Steep ascent up the north east nose

Pausing half way up, views back to Loch Tulla

Made it to flatter ground, time for dinner

After resting a while I amble summitwards. The heat of the day is upon me, I am melting. All the lochans seem dried up and I'm starting to worry a little. My mind is wholly preoccupied by finding water, and then getting down and swimming in some. At the top I don't stop, just touch it and head straight back towards the largest lochan which I noted had some water in it on my outward journey. I stop, drink what's left and refill. Even filtered this doesn't taste great but hopefully I'll find something better in the burns going down and it's better than nothing. Now I can relax and enjoy.

The descent is much more pleasing than yesterday, nice springy grass and heather, this is much more my style. I stick close to the burn and a couple of times stop to investigate when I hear water trickling but it isn't accessible, how annoying! The third time thankfully I find I can access the fresh, running watery stuff. I ditch the lochan water, this is much better. I stop and rest and down half a litre, refill to the brim, stretch out in the sunshine and pick a route out back to the path below. There is but one thing on my mind now, getting into lovely Loch Dochard and getting out of the heat.

Dried up lochans

And burns

Finally found some running water hereabouts

I pick a diagonal line away from the burn to the point fenceline meets main path. The going is easy and I'm soon off the hill and headed the short distance to the loch. There is a small, sandyish looking bank not far along which seems as good a place as any. A pleasing spot with a pleasing view. It is breezy but the wind is warm. I dump rucksack and leave sweaty clothes swaying on walking poles to dry. Into the water I go and it is, well, not warm exactly, but not cold, refreshing and relaxing and wonderful. God it feels good to be out of the heat. And there is no one to be seen, I have the place to myself. I spend the next half hour idly swimming to and fro in the faintly choppy water. Bliss.

Headed for Loch Dochard

Swimming time

Beinn Suidhe from my swimming spot

Cooled off and refreshed I get out of the water and relax on the shore in the sun to dry. I reckon I have a 6 or 7km walk back through the heat of the afternoon to the car and am in no hurry to leave this delightful spot.Eventually though it is time to make a move, back on go now dry clothes, and boots and I begin the flat and easy stroll back to the car park, not rushing as it really is a scorcher of a day.

Leaving Loch Dochard and heading home

Passing below Beinn Suidhe on the outward journey

It has been a nice wee break but it's time to head back to civilisation. Until the next time anyway.

[EmmaBemma]

Loved this report, and your other one from the Black Mount trip. Pictures are gorgeous, you were so lucky with the weather, and the swim sounds divine. Can I ask you about wild camping on your own - do you have any tips for a complete novice? I have never done it, I love hillwalking on my own but have been restricted to hills I can can get to and from in a day. Even though I prefer a very early start, a 3+ hour drive home begins to feel a bit sketchy after a long day.

[WeeHills]

Hi Emma, thank you for your kind words. The weather was indeed wonderful, though very hot on the Tuesday, swimming was just the ticket.

As far as wild camping goes I would always recommend starting small and local to build confidence and figure out what you really need to be carrying. Sticking close to home at first, or near your car, allows you to bail if you do feel uncomfortable, though (touch wood) I never have, and keeping the distance down gives you a chance to decide what matters most to you in terms of equipment. For example I know some people value a quality sleeping mat above all else but I don't mind so much about that, perhaps because I'm not very heavy, and I don't do winter camping so warmth is less of an issue for me. I do, however, favour a two-man tent, as I like to spread out so am willing to put up with the extra few grams.

Also I'd suggest carefully checking out water sources where you're going, the less water you have to carry the better, but that's true of longer day trips too so I'm probably preaching to the choir here.

Good luck with it, it does allow for more freedom and you do feel less rushed when there's no need to get home the same day.

[EmmaBemma]

Hi WeeHills, thanks so much for your reply - that's all really helpful. Starting small and seeing how it goes is a great tip. Sorry it's taken me so long to respond - I didn't get a notification and only came back to check this post when I returned to your other report, thinking about doing Stob Gabhar and Stob a'Choire Odhair tomorrow!