Couternach, Mount Keen, an eclipse and the "Blue Door"

[HalfManHalfTitanium]

I am a kind of accidental Munro bagger. I am working my way through the list of Munros in a desultory style, without much expectation of ever reaching the end.

When I get the chance to visit Scotland, I mix Munro walks with lower-level routes, depending on the weather, the state of my knees, and whether the pub is open. It's the journey that matters, not the objective.

For me, living in England, the great thing about the list of Munros is that it takes me to parts of Scotland I might never have seen. Not every Munro is a spectacular peak, but I like the variety, and the rolling eastern landscape is just as attractive to me as the dramatic hills of the west. The especial charm of the east, I think, is often the approach walks along the glens.

This was very much the case when I walked up Couternach and Mount Keen, on my first visit to Scotland since 2019.

View from the road westwards into Glen Esk.

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There were in fact many finer scenes along the Glen Esk road, but if I'd stopped to photograph them, it would have been afternoon before I reached the car park. As it was, I'd parked up by around 10am. Although it was mid week, the car park is clearly the centre for a variety of walks and sights, and it was quite busy. The first thing to look out for is of course the old Kirk.

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Beyond the Kirk, it is impossible to lose the way. There are several different signs, all pointing to Mount Keen and Queen's Well: this was the most attractive.

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The guinea fowl at House of Mark were on their morning coffee break.

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Pastoral scenes on the early part of the walk.

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There was a beautiful gradual transition from the gentle scenery around House of Mark to the wilder upper glen. This area was alive with the calls of curlews.

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According to the map, this area of the hillside is called Gilfumman. But not by many, I suspect.

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It put me in mind of some of the names I'd spotted north of Glen Esk, when I was thinking of a walk to Mount Battock -

Bonnyfleeces
Bawd's Bush
Whig's Meadow
Shank of Matthew
Tough's Market
Torrnaflossie
Gruiggal of Dye
Hill of Remora (a place where remoras still cling on...?)

A sliver of sunlight lit up the Queen's Well.

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The well. I decided to have my picnic here.

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As I sat eating my sandwiches, something made me look overhead. There was a thinning of the dense clouds - and the sun, with a bite out of it. Staying at my guest house, I'd been immune to any news this week - I'd not been aware an eclipse was due!

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This was the second time I'd been surprised by an eclipse. Years ago when training for a South American climbing trip by walking up the Malverns at 5am with a heavy rucksack, I turned around and saw the rising sun appear, partially eclipsed.

The sun was quickly buried in thick cloud again, and I set off for the rest of the walk. Beyond Glenmark Cottage, the path started to rise, and I crossed a stream, with views all around.

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Upper Glen Mark - it looked more rugged than I'd expected.

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Higher up, I left the path and made my way up to the summit of Couternach. I'd noticed this hill's position on the map, jutting out like a high promontory above the glen. Despite its lack of coverage in other Walkhighlands reports, I thought it would be a good viewpoint. I was right.

Looking back down Glen Mark.

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Carlochy, with dipping lines of strata in the corrie.

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Looking into the upper glen. A study of the map later showed that the Water of Mark winds into the hills much further than I could see - there are headwaters only a few miles from both Loch Muick and Glen Clova.

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A closer view of the Water of Mark.

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Looking from the top of Couternach to the main track, and Mount Keen. Even though it was a cloudy day in mid-week, several walkers can be seen on the track.

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Back on the track - Mount Keen and a fleeting glimpse of blue sky.

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After that, there was not a lot to take photos of. The cloud closed in, and it was simply a matter of following the constructed track in the mist, up the gradual slope to the top.

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I will add into this report a little about the lower part of Glen Esk, and the "Blue Door" walk. I did this on another day, but it feels right to make it part of this TR. The Blue Door walk is part of a WH route (https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/angus/edzell.shtml). However, I just parked at the door, and did the lower section, not even reaching the Rocks of Solitude (which are also signposted from the Glen Esk road).

But, this lower walk was truly magical. A highlight for me was watching the salmon, which could be seen even at the very bottom of the deep river, due to the clear water.

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After that short walk, I visited House of Dun and its fine gardens...

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The old Kirk at Dun...

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Lunan Bay and the Red Castle...

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Arbroath - Abbey and harbour...

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St Vigeans (the Pictish Stones museum was closed)

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Balgavies Loch and lots of wildfowl

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[Sgurr]

I have walked Mount Keen three times and you managed to extract more from the surroundings than I did in all my outings. Maybe there is a lot to be said for going solo, something I only did when I was near enough the beginning of my walking career to be scared of loosing my way. Interesting stuff, but by now (Can You Give Me a P Bob) I should know that you gather and retain a whole lot of that.

[HalfManHalfTitanium]

I have walked Mount Keen three times and you managed to extract more from the surroundings than I did in all my outings. Maybe there is a lot to be said for going solo, something I only did when I was near enough the beginning of my walking career to be scared of loosing my way. Interesting stuff, but by now (Can You Give Me a P Bob) I should know that you gather and retain a whole lot of that.

That's very kind Sgurr! - I'm sure we both find a lot in our surroundings!

Living so far away (and exiled for so long by Covid) I certainly relished my chance to explore Glen Esk, Glen Clova and other areas of Angus - a wonderful part of the world!

Tim