Beinn an Lochain; More Clag and a Sublime Sunrise

[WeeHills]

This was a wee camp out born of indecision. I couldn't decide whether I wanted to head for Ben Vane or Beinn an Lochain and after humming and hurring for days devised a plan for both figuring if I camped out somewhere on the lower reaches of Beinn an Lochain I'd have plenty of time to pop up early in the morning and be home by 1pm as required. As it happens things didn't go entirely according to plan, but in a good way.

Having been up Ben Vane earlier in the day the short drive round from Inveruglas sees me parked up at the layby just north of Loch Restil at 3.30 in the afternoon. As I start faffing around, transferring oddments from one rucksack to another I realise I'm blooming ravenous. Original idea of heading a short distance from the car to make camp goes out the window and is switched in favour of early tea right here, ditch the cooking gear and maybe head a little higher up the ridge line. Less up in the morning, or should the clag clear from the tops perhaps even nip to the summit for sunset.

So after eating half my body weight in pasta by 5pm I'm headed upwards with just a supper of oatcakes, cheese, wine and a flask of coffee for sustenance (somehow I coped). In hindsight I'm not sure the flask weighs any less than the stove but it seemed like a good idea at the time. As the weather has continued on the not so wet side the burn crossing is easy and the short section to the start of the hill is not terribly boggy. Soon I'm plodding slowly up the ridge. I'm taking it real slow with the heavy pack and each time I come to a scrambly bit I question my wisdom, not because getting up is difficult but because at some point I'm going to have to lug all this back down. But that's a problem for future me, present me is occupied contemplating potential pitches and wondering if the cloud will lift. I pause for a few snaps before entering the clag once more.

Looking down on Loch Restil before hitting the clag

And Butterbridge, the car park in use by construction crews just now

I'm soon well and truly enveloped in cloud. I don't mind though, the lack of views just means fewer distractions from finding a pitch. I amble along scanning around each time the slope flattens, considering then discarding this spot and that. So busy contemplating campsites that I haven't noticed how far I've come until I find the first rocky buttress looming before me. I hadn't really intended to come this far, but now I'm here a decision must be made. There will be no pitches along this next section so either I go back or I go past. There have been numerous adequate places to this point but nothing that has really spoken to me. Light isn't an issue at this time of year and despite the earlier munro I'm feeling good so press on.

I follow the path to the right, it is very blustery on this western side, I will need some shelter from the wind. The track swings left back up to the ridge proper, I amble a bit further, I'm not that far from the summit, and then I see it. The perfect pitch. A small, flat area between two rocky knobbles with just enough room for a tent to nestle out of the wind. There's a convenient, also sheltered, and flat rock to sit on, and should the cloud happen to lift by my calculation I'll be looking down the pass from Rest and Be Thankful. This seems ideal.

It is just after 7 by the time the tent is up and organised. The cloud shows no sign whatsoever of shifting so I figure I'll just setlle down with that cheese and wine, and if it still hasn't cleared by 9ish call it a day. I'm actually quite enjoying the clagged in campsite. The cloud muffles the sound of vehicles on the A83 below, it's very peaceful. 9pm comes and goes, all is still clag. I shut out the outside world feeling perhaps slightly miffed that my hoped for summit sunset won't be happening, but you win some you lose some, oh well.

9pm 'views' from the tent

I must have fallen alseep the second I cooried down into my sleeping bag as the next thing I know it's 4.30am. In the middle of a grumble about the early hour (though I've had a solid 7 hours sleep) I figure I should have a wee keek outside. I'm not holding out much hope and fully expect to open the door to more clag, so the view over the Cobbler that greets me is a delightful surprise.

Good morning Mr Cobbler

5am views are a definite improvement on 9pm ones

Suddenly I'm wide awake, and if I remember rightly sunrise is due around five. I scramble out of bed, pour (thankfully still warm) coffee and perch myself on my rock chair to enjoy the show. It is glorious. The sun emerges over Ben More, at least I think it's Ben More, 5am me isn't the best judge of anything. Clouds swirl around the hills, Ben Lui and Ben Cruachan can be seen peaking out above to the north. The views down from the Rest are clear. I am now Smuggy McSmugface of Smugsville in Smugland. Turns out this really is the perfect pitch and I couldn't be more pleased with my not entirely as intended efforts last evening.

Sunrise

Co-starring Ben Ime

With a cameo appearance from Ben Lui

Sun risen and coffee drunk it is time to head for the summit. Taking just water, phone and walking poles with me makes for a quick and easy jaunt to the top. Plus it's only about 15 minutes away, the benefits of camping high. I'm very quickly making my way up the elegant curve of Beinn an Lochain's final approach. The views from the highest point are magnificent. To the west I can see the Paps of Jura peeping out from a sea of cloud, and to the south Arran and Aisla Craig are visible. The local hills stand darkly against the bright early light with cloud blowing through the valleys and at times pushing towards the tops.

Approaching the summit

Summit cairn looking down on Beinn an t-Seilich

Ben Ime above swirling clouds in the early sun

Bens Arthur, Narnain and Lomond from the summit

It is not yet six in the morning and I have this most charming of corbetts entirely to myself. I spend a good hour pottering from summit to southern subsidiary top and back again. Admiring the views, watching the clouds shift below me, enjoying the solitude. I am indescribably pleased to not have to rush. I may not have intended to camp so high up but it's all worked out splendidly. Is there a better way to start a day?

Towards the southern top

Ben Donich from the southern top

Of course I can't stay forever and eventually begin to plod slowly back down to the tent, pausing often for more admiration and snaps of views. It's around 7.30 by the time I return and begin the process of packing up. I'm a wee bit worried about the down, but it isn't to bad, there are nice dirt steps much of the way and I'm taking my time. As I get further down I start meeting a few others headed up. Hope the views were as fine for them as me. My descent remains uneventful and after a time I'm off the last of the steep sections.

Cruachan group above the clouds as I start down from the summit

Beinn an Lochain lochan

Cloud swirls beneath me as I head back to the tent

There's a tent round here somewhere

A final view of the Arrochar hills before heading back to the car

Just the short distance across the not so boggy bogs and I'm back at the car by 9.30, arriving home before 11 which allows plenty of time for a long, hot slob in the bath before afternoon commitments. Couldn't have worked out better. Couldn't be any smugger.