Meikle Says Law, land of grouse and sheep

[jgregor]

We followed the Walk Highlands circuit guide for this walk. Arriving at the parking spot on the lonely windswept minor road at Redstone Rig around half 9 in the morning, were surprised to see two other cars already there. They seemed to be together, both had their car boots open and containing youths in seemingly high spirits. We were openly stared at by one slack-jawed individual as we parked up. They didn't appear to be preparing to hike anywhere, and I was glad to set off quickly along our trail and leave them to whatever nefarious activity they were about.

The route starts downhill into the valley of the Fasney Water, past Fasney Cottage, which looks lived in now. Perhaps it has been done up since the guide was written.

Fasney Cottage and Fasney Water

Past the cottage, through a gate and past a barn, we arrive at a fork in the track, with one way fording the burn and the other running alongside it. The guide vaguely mentions keeping to the main track and fording the burn. So we pick the left fork and do just that.

Approaching the fork - but which is the main track?

After a while it becomes apparent that this wasn't the way up at all, but rather the way down again. So we decide to do the circuit in reverse instead!

The way we'd come. Seems odd looking UP a steep hill to where the car is parked

The road ahead, including sheep

We follow the track as it climbs slowly and steadily. The miles of bleak moor in every direction has a certain lonely beauty about it. But there is also the feeling that it shouldn't really be like this. The absence of any proper wildlife above the size or a daddy-long-legs (of which there are many) is a stark reminder that this is heavily managed land, not wilderness. Aside from the ubiquitous grouse and sheep, the only other thing we saw was a dead rabbit. Probably shot, judging by then the used shotgun cartridges lying here and there. With no natural predators or scavengers, it was left to the slow processes of insect aided decay. Sad, but such is the cost of farming grouse (for later despatch by firearm) to the exclusion of all else across much of Scotland.

After a while the track gets fainter, and peters out altogether about two thirds of the way up. From here it's roughing it over the heather and tufts of grass. The clouds get darker and threaten rain, but by now we can see the summit, with the wind turbines looming above it.

View to the summit, with trig point a speck on the horizon

At the summit we reach the trig point, and the end of the track which will be the start of our trek down and round the north side of the hill. We were pleased with our accidental 'decision' to do the published circuit in reverse, meaning that we had a clear path all the way down and wouldn't have to go looking for it on the way we had just ascended.

End of the road? Depends on your perspective

A rare sight up here

We started down the track, which continues in a south-westerly direction initially, and with the field of wind turbines on our left. I assume the fence is to keep the sheep out rather than the turbines in.

Wind turbines standing motionless on a still day

The track turns north-west and then north as it descends gently into the head of the Faseny Water valley.

Sheepfold, as marked on the OS map

Wolf Cleugh under darkening clouds

As the track descended to the level of the burn there were five fords as the Faseny snaked along the valley while the track kept a comparatively straighter course.

The first ford on the return leg

It wasn't too hard to keep dry feet by going up or down stream a bit and finding a narrow spot to jump, or a stepping stone to use. Very soon the dark clouds delivered on their promise and opened on us. From there it was a soggy trudge along the rest of the track, back past Faseny Cottage and up the hill to the road. This last part being the most demanding uphill section of the day.