Pootling Up the Pap

[WeeHills]

I had been undecided on which hill to tackle today, possibly the Pap or maybe Sgorr Nam Fiannaidh and Stob Coire Leith, which is as close to the Aoanch Eagagh as I'm prepared to get. After my wee overnighter on Buachaille Etive Beag I am, however, feeling a bit stiff and stupid gammy leg is complaining a little by the time I get back to the car so the Pap wins out. Just a nice, short, pootley sort of day. In theory.

It is a short drive along to the wee forest car park just outside Glencoe Village. Time is taken over a second coffee, one never being enough of a morning, and making full use of the facilities for a quick wash and change. It is just after ten in the am as I set off along the shaded path through the trees. A pleasantly cool start which ends all too quickly as path meets road, road meets gate and upward route meets another scorcher of a day.

At first the path rises gently as it traverses the side of the hill. There are trees here and there, a pleasant river crossing, a lot of up to your oxters bracken. Fortunately for the most part the bracken stands to either side of the path and in the odd places it looms over I make judicious use of walking poles to keep it at bay. Soon the route steepens. It must be a decade or so since I last visited Sgorr na Ciche and while I recall it being steep I seem to have forgotten just how steep. My legs feel heavy, I stop frequently, funny how quickly one gets out of shape, a break from the hills of less than a month and all fitness seems to have vanished.

Fine views back over Glencoe Village and the narrows at Ballachulish

Enjoying the scenery from one of the countless breaks on my slow ascent

On the plus side the views back over Glencoe Village and Loch Leven are pretty fine and I do have all day so my slow progress matters not one jot. I continue plodding, sun belting down upon me, loose stones shifting under my feet, up the eroded track. The bracken dwindles, replaced by rough grass, there are flatter sections between steeper ones, slowly, slowly the bealach appears. Here I pause for a more extended break and some food before tackling the rocky, rounded summit dome.

The final pull to the top is steeper still, scrambly in places, with a path that occassionally disappears before becoming clear once more. Weirdly I find this part easier, less tiring, the legs feel less heavy. Perhaps the greater concentration required to keep my footing has taken my mind off the aches, or maybe the vista opening up towards Kinlochleven, Garbh Bheinn looking especially fine to the south of the loch, distract me from them. Possibly I just needed some food, who knows? All that matters is I am enjoying this now, picking my way around the back and up to the summit and soon I am there and it is lovely.

Now stopped the sun seems just pleasantly warm. A hint of breeze keeps any bugs away but does not necessitate extra layers. I amble from one cairn to another, admiring the views, taking pictures before settling down by the more westerly one where a little grass provides a less jagged seat. Off come the boots and socks and out comes a juicy apple, just the ticket after what has been a ridiculously slow and tiring ascent.

The rocky, rounded summit dome of the Pap from the bealach

Cairns abound at the top

I chat with two younger ladies up with their dog, celebrating one of their birthdays. One comments she that doesn't remember Ben Nevis being this steep. I assure her it isn't (not up the usual Glen Nevis side anyway), feeling somewhat relieved that the steepness isn't entirely in my imagination. A few others are enjoying this spot, a group of four flying a drone, an older gentleman with a serious camera, and a younger lad who has nipped briefly to the top while his partner waits below. The dog gets attention from all and all wish she'd lend us some of her boundless energy.

All in all it is a very pleasant place to while away a lazy hour in pleasant company on a sunny afternoon. I soak up the views, Beinn a' Bheither dominating, looking magnificent. This is the life. Unfortunately at some point I'm going to have to tackle the same steep path in the dreaded downwards direction. A fact I had been studiously ignoring all the way up.

Up the loch to Kinlochleven, Garbh Bheinn looking fine

Magnificent Beinn a' Bheither from the summit

Eventually I get my feet back on and make a start. Back down the rugged, rocky dome. Not too bad, a bit scrambly here and there but any excuse to use hands makes descending feel more secure in my head. Gentle stroll back across the bealach, no problem. Then comes the bulk of the descent down steep, eroded, loose, stony ground. This I hate. I pick my way at snail's pace, watching each and every foot and pole placement. Older gentleman soon comes striding past me. I am ridiculously s-l-o-w at down. I watch him vanish into the distance

By half way through this section my legs seem to have turned entirely to jelly. I question whatever possessed me to come up this steep hill on this hot day when I'd already visited two perfectly good munros the previous. Just how many hills do I need in my life anyway? I could have just had a nice wee wander along the river, or gone to a beach somewhere. I start vowing never to do anything so stupid again. And then the gradient eases, the walking is pleasant, my legs are my own again. In no time at all I'm returning through the woods and reaching the carpark.

It was all perfectly fine. No problem at all. Can't wait for the next one.