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Mullach Coire nan Geur-oirean not only has the longest name on the Graham list, it is also one of the least convenient 2000ft hills to climb. At least for us it was. If doing a multi day traverse, one could combine it with Gulvain or the surrounding Corbetts, but for a single day trip, it is a long walk for a single Graham. Thankfully, the approach is on a good track so we thought we could use bikes for this one, especially that we had just cycled to Carn na Braebaig the day before and our bikes were still strapped to the back of the car.
The best starting point for this route is from the forestry car park by the Eas Chia-Aig falls. A short cycle to a locked gate and a track entering the Locheil Estate. The small walker's gate was open and we assumed that cyclist were allowed:
Views from the eastern end of Loch Arkaig:
The tarmac soon ended but the gravel track was definitely cyclable, if a bit steep here and there:
After about 3km the road emerges from the forest with better views to Loch Arkaig and the surrounding hills. I had been worried about my cycling abilities but this was easier than I expected.
A new forest track almost had us deceived but we quickly noticed we had turned the wrong way and corrected the mistake. Past Invermaillie, the cycling was rougher but we were still making good progress. The forecast today was slightly better than the day before, less cloud possibly, so a good chance for clag-free summit ridge.
Looking back down the access track:
We left the bikes about 1km before the ruins of Glenmaillie, at the highest point of the track. The slopes leading to the ridge looked friendly enough here:
We managed to avoid the bracken lower down and climbed steadily alongside one of many small streams. Weather was improving as we gained height and our hopes for a clag-free summit increased.
Upper Glen Maillie:
After 350m of ascending the steep section, we reached the main ridge. The summit was still miles away but from now on it would be much easier going. I couldn't resist a pose with the views emerging from the lifting cloud:
The best views are of course to the north and west, to the rugged landscape of Knoydart and the hills north of Loch Arkaig:
Also, there's a nice perspective to Loch Lochy peaks:
The twin tops of Gulvain:
The summit is roughly 3km away from the eastern end of the ridge but the ascent is very gradual. Some peat hags to avoid but in summer time most of them were dry as a bone. A nice change from the "place that wanted us wet" the day before
It was indeed a very enjoyable walk along the ridge, with views that surprised us with the clarity. Mullach Coire nan Geur-oirean sits right between the tops of Knoydart and the Glenfinnian area; it is also close enough to Fort William peaks to give a good view of Ben Nevis. It is really worth saving for a clear day!
Loch Blair and the Quoich landslide:
Zoom to the landslide:
The summit cairn is small and it could easily be overlooked. We celebrated our 123rd Graham (104th for wee Lucy):
It was warm enough for shorts, at least for Kevin. I prefer to cover myself more due to my UV allergy.
A few extra snaps from the summit:
We considered making a circular walk by descending to the Glenmaillie ruin, but decided against it. It would still be the same distance to cover and by retracing our steps we kept the excellent views for longer. We didn't expect so much strong sunlight but better too much sun than not enough (we were fed up with walking in the cloud, having spent several days wandering in the mist!).
![2021-07-31 mullach coire nan geur-oirean 100.JPG]()
- Sunscreen time!
We returned to our bikes and set off on the cycle back to the Eas Chia-Aig car park. It was much easier now as the track was descending gently so we really didn't need to put much effort into pedaling, the wheels just rolled by the power of gravity. At some point I noticed that my bike started to make strange clonking noises. One of the screws securing the back seat to the frame has come undone and the whole structure was moving. I wasn't really sure how to describe the problem to Kevin so I just shouted:
"We have to stop. I have a screw loose!!!"
Well said, Panther.
You definitely do!
The clonking seat was temporarily fixed (Kevin proved himself to be as good as MacGyver!) and we continued cycling back without any further adventures. The car park was badly midge-infested so we quickly put the bikes on the rack and jumped inside. The whole expedition took us 7.5 hours and that with quite a few breaks, including a long siesta on the summit.
I know this is not a hill many people will consider worth the hassle, but I wouldn't count it out just because its name is long and unpronounceable
My next story will cover another crash site and some less known tops of he north-east. TR in progress.
