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Another long yin .. or, yawn, so perhaps just skim to pics, unless you have insomnia
(Sorry, can't seem to help myself.)
Had a shout from good buddy, Steve who has kept an eye on me over some of the trickiest hills I've done and knew I had An Teallach in my sights. Knowing I'm not keen on exposure, he reassured me he would bring along the mountaineering tackle and rope, just to be on the safe side. Sounds ok then, says I, although I wasn't so sure about the camping suggestion! Ah well, day before had a practice run and only took about an hour to remember how to put the damn tent up
Gathered some other gear together and met Steve, along with pal, Derek at the Green Welly, for the journey north. Departure time was fairly late in the afternoon and having had a prolonged pit stop at the Aultguish Inn, my angst that I might have to put up the tent in the dark, duly materialised. This could have the other two in knots, laughing! The embarrassment of having to ask others to assist put my tent up, was welling inside, as we cruised gingerly along the shore of Little Loch Broom, using the headlights to search for a place to camp. I didn't think it would be possible to even find a spot, but the lads know what they are doing and soon had picked somewhere flat, near couple of derelict, old buildings. Much to my surprise, I remembered most of the steps required and made a reasonable hash of getting the tent up, illuminated by the headlamps.
Didn't sleep too well, but that was not unexpected, having awful shoulder pains at nights, the sound of occasional passing lorry sounding like runway 2 at Heathrow and I hate sleeping bags
Oh, and there was the small matter of how I'd get on with the traverse of An Teallach and more particularly the Corrag Bhuidhe! Anyway, the night passed and so did the wind, after Steve's hot cuisine of beans and sausage at 7am
We then made for Corrie Hallie, intent on doing the route anti-clockwise.
- It could be a bit windy today!
- Mmmh? A slightly nervous looking pose as we head in for Sail Liath.
Initial hopes of a good cloud inversion were very quickly scotched and to make matters worse, the hills were holding onto some serious looking cloud. Forecast from Met Office had been showing wall to wall sunshine, so nothing to worry about
The walk up Gleann Chaorachain, was quite pleasant and the banter was good. Perhaps, the cloud cover shielded me from spying too far ahead and the ascent of Sail Liath, looked little cause for concern.
- Heading for the main test, which remains shrouded in myst-ery.
The lads were taking it easy and we made good progress up through the stony stuff, where we made the first contact with the many mountain goats of An Teallach. I had no idea there were so many. One wonders how long they have been resident there, are they growing/shrinking in number and when is their next bath due??
I don't smell too bonny after most of my days on the mountains, either, mind you!
- More than one old goat on the mountain today. Have to admire their nimbleness and courage, darting about the pinnacles and ridges.
- My first meeting with a Ked. Perhaps, goat related?
About the top of Sail Liath comes the first inkling that this is no ordinary mountain, as steep gullies plummet toward Loch Toll an Lochain. Still, the road ahead to Stob Gadha Gobhlach, didn't look to hold too much terror and I still had no idea of where this Corrag Bhuidhe thingy was, as we stopped for some pics at a nice promontory, getting a look at some of the mountains in the Fisherfield. Beinn Dearg Mor, looking pretty impressive, although most of the others indistinguishable to the untrained eye.
- One of the sheer gullies, as we make for Stob Cadha Gobhlach.
- A good promontory or two on this ridge. Unfortunately, I couldn't make it into a decent pic!
- A different angle :)
- Another glimpse over to the Fisherfield.
- Looking over to Beinn Dearg Mor and the Fisherfield.
By now the others were almost imploring the cloud to do one and disappear, though I was less keen to try the suggested cloud dance, or anything else which might reveal anything too scary, as we made a more prolonged and steeper climb up the more typical, rounded rock, requiring a bit more care here and there. Without me realising it we had climbed pretty high up Corrrag Bhuidhe, to the point where the lads had to make more considered decisions about how to proceed. To be honest, neither option offered appealed much. Derek, meantime was galloping up what he felt was the guide book route. I then looked at the bypass on the same level as where we stood. Looked round the corner, path vanishes,
No, don't fancy that! I did fancy dropping to lower bypass I could see, but Steve thought I would manage a tricky 40-50 feet scramble up a bit of a cleft further along, especially if I had the rope on.
- The scramblers, scramble up the Corrag Bhuidhe.
Ok, sounds good. Let's go! We both got helmet and harness on, as he explained how I'd need to remove the gear as we ascended, then he remembered Derek had the rope in his sack! Bleep, he said. He might be halfway along ridge by now! Anyway, perhaps wondering what was taking us so long, he soon appeared in response to a holler, or two from Steve. "Will you throw us down the rope. You've got the rope!" "Eh, what rope? I've not got any rope." I'll remember these words for a while
I won't go into the rest of the dialogue, or my inner thoughts, as children might be reading, but any thoughts the guys were just bluffing were soon blown away. It must have been the beans
- Can't mind if this was where the magical rope disappearing act unfolded or, not, but looks possible?
- Doing a bit of ridge. Enough for me.
Mmmh?! I was quite worried. This had implications for the whole walk. What to do? How will I/we deal with me? Crikey, or something like it! I didn't want to ruin the guys day on the ridge, having to escort me round every bypass and miss out on the scrambling. Steve, suggested I try the scramble up and he would help direct me to the hand/footholds. The initial move/s were quite awkward, at my maximum reach and grip, but only because I am old, weak and inflexible. Once these steps were negotiated, it was relatively easy to get up on top and make our way along the first pinnacle. The lads were only too helpful with advice and guidance where needed. Test every hand hold is secure before putting weight on it. Don't push off with your feet so quickly.
- Heading for Lord Berkeley's Seat. Approach was easier than I expected.
- Steve heading along the ridge.
A few awkward bits of downclimb with some guidance and that bit was done ok. I climbed a few other bits, but to be honest found the by-pass paths just a short distance below the pinnacles relatively easy and enjoyable enough for me, as the other two did some more adventurous scrambling. I must admit to being rather jealous seeing them cruise along no bother and wondered if I should really be missing out. Before I knew it, we were advancing toward Lord Berkely's Seat. I had already pledged on my ancient ancestor's graves I was going nowhere near that, but as Steve said, you can get right up there no bother. Ok, I never sat on the perch, or tried to look over the drop, but being near, was near enough for me
- Having a wee breather on Lord Berkely's perch.
- Time to leave the Lord's Seat.
- The lads on Lord Berkeley's Seat.
- Dubious smile as I make final wee climb onto the Lord's throne :)
From there, it is on to the 1st Munro, Sgurr Fiona. Not much difficulty as I recall and about this time the cloud began to disperse a little and let some sun peep through now and again, allowing a better view of the cliffs and view back along the ridge. Think we had some grub, then made for the trig point on Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill, Munro 2, where a few more bods were hanging around, perhaps waiting for the cloud to lift, which it was in the process of doing, just as we had completed the traverse. C'est la vie!
- The lads have seen enough from Sgurr Fiona, the finer Munro of the two.
- Back along the pinnacles, from our Munro #1, Sgurr Fiona.
- Back to Sgurr Fiona. Lord Berkely's Seat, looks appealing in the middle.
- Steve on summit No.2, as the old chap/s lag behind.
- Time to head for home.
- Happy chaps on Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill, 1062m.
- Glas Mheall Liath where we descended from in various directions, seen from Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill.
- Decent pano from Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill.
- An Teallach.
I went away, tramping off the summit path to the north, but Derek soon alerted us to potential gaff, as they had planned to drop down east, via Glas Mheall Liath, thus saving the two and a half mile walk, along the road, back to the car. Some great rock formations and geology on display as we made our way along this ridge, of sorts. Then came a divergence of views as to best way down. Keep right on over the last top, then down, or divert south, down the very steep slope toward the lochan, traversing round, as we go. I am wary of anything steep when one can't see what is below, but managed to follow a good, grassy rake down toward Loch Toll an Lochain, though didn't do too much traversing, while Steve stayed higher and did more traversing and Derek, went for the direct route off the far end.
- Another pinnacle, as we make for the descent along Glas Mheall Liath.
- This way down, or rather just a bit further to right. Worked ok for me.
- Out to the Beinn Dearg hills, now visible, as we make for the descent.
- Clouds begin to clear to the west, but a bit late in our day!
- Corrag Bhuidhe, as we descend. Lord Berkeley's Seat, is at the top of the diamond shaped wedge.
I felt comfy enough making my way round toward Coir' a' Ghiubhsachain and eventually rendezvous'd with the lads, then made our way over the burn, down to the sheepfold and back to the car, taking about eight and three quarter hours, if memory right. Then followed the long trek back to Argyll, which allowed me time to reflect on another special day on the mountain. All in all, I felt I had coped reasonably well and found An Teallach less intimidating and scary than Liathach. Was that because of the cloud cover, having Steve and Derek with their experience there, taking easier bypasses, or am I getting any better with exposure, or what? Who knows. The camping hadn't been a total disaster either. Thanks Steve and Derek!
So, only 12 more Munro's to go. Funny when one starts to think of how many to go, rather than how many one has done