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Foinaven: Four jewels on a string of scree

Foinaven: Four jewels on a string of scree


Postby Pastychomper » Mon Sep 20, 2021 9:28 pm

Corbetts included on this walk: Foinaven

Date walked: 16/09/2021

Time taken: 11.2 hours

Distance: 24.4 km

Ascent: 1020m

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I've commented before that there seems to be a rule about Foinaven: you don't get to complete it unless you really want to. At least, that's how I chose to interpret my previous experiences on the hill: in 2010, four of us set off on a fine summer's day, only to be beaten back by driving rain and fog on the first hill.
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On top of Cnoc a Mhadaidh, 2010

Three years later, two of us got as far as An t'Sail Mhor and turned back, being short of time and (in my case at least) fitness.
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An t'Sail Mhor, 2013
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Some places are worth coming back to... ptarm and ptarm igan.

Last week, sensing a disturbance in the force (or one dry day in the forecast), I set off alone, sleeping in the car park to get an earlyish start. Next morning, Arkle had its head in cloud but the rest of the area looked clear - in fact the weather was similar to my last visit.
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There was even another crop of fly agaric under the Arkle Gate, but it looked a bit tired.
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Further on...
This time I met a large squadron of keds in the Lone woods, but carried on past them, past Arkle, and on to Bealach Horn.
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Looking between Arkle and Foinaven

I skipped the first peak and went stright on to Stob Cadha na Beucaich.
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On the up
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First top
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Coming attractions
The path wasn't visible from that side and I remembered how narrow and treacherous it had looked from Arkle, but the way became clear eventually - and apart from falling stones hitting my feet, it was a surprisingly easy descent.

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Hollow cairn
Here was the legendary* shelter cairn - it looked like a fine shelter for a hobbit, or might even serve as an old-style bread oven if anyone could be bothered to bring enough wood.
*I'd read there was one up here.

I decided in advance that if I was going to do this ridge it deserved a proper celebration, so I sat in front of the cairn and mixed up a few ingredients to give them time to ferment. While sitting there I saw a pair of birds circling near Lord Reay's Seat - fortunately they were ravens, not vultures, so I deemed it safe to continue.

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The only way is...
For some reason the next ascent felt the most exposed of the lot - even though the previous section, moving scree and all, had felt perfectly safe. I decided I'm really not a fan of ridge walking but plodded up steadily, stopping every now and then to look down the slopes and remind myself it wasn't as bad as all that. Following what looked like the main track, I skirted around Lord Reay's Seat and carried on to A' Cheir Ghorm. By now the clouds had risen and the whole of Foinaven was clear.
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East towards Ben Hope from A' Cheir Ghorm, including the side ridge


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Ganu Mhor
The ridge from there to the main peak, Ganu Mhor, was the longest and narrowest of the day, but somehow felt a lot less exposed than the preceding one. I still hadn't quite made peace with ridges, but the slopes each side were smooth and safe-looking, and the walk easy and relaxing. Ahead I could see a couple of black silhouettes on the peak, walking between the two cairns and apparently enjoying the view. By the time I arrived they'd disappeared.

The landscape was clear for miles around. I'd recognised Ben Hope and the Griams early on, and was surprised how close the latter looked from up here.
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Ben Hope and the east cairn of Ganu Mhor

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Zoom to Ben Klibreck
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Back along the ridge
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Arkle
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Some of the north coast
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Ahead to Ceann Garbh
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Beinn Spionnaidh and Cranstackie

I felt rewarded several times over for the effort of getting there. The superbly crinkly coastline never gets old, and seeing some of the best parts of the country from a new angle was a real joy.

Now came the celebration I mentioned earlier: Victory Pizza!
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"Free delivery for orders over 3,000 ft..." Dang.
There was a slight breeze but the summit cairn provided shelter for the stove. After a while I was joined on the top by a couple of walkers, but they didn't come over to the cairn until I'd cleaned up and moved on. Maybe they caught a whiff of cheese and thought I'd taken my socks off.

The walk to Ceann Garbh was easy going, and I carried on down and sat for a while on the slopes, watching the odd car pass on the distant A838 and a whole lot of nothing happening in between.
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Zoom to Gualin House
Eventually thirst got the better of me, and I found a tinkling burn to refill my bottle before squelching across the moss to the road and the end of my journey.
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Plenty of toads on the road, but only two tiny frogs on the hill. This feller(ess?) was on the way down.
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Looking back


Well, not quite the end - there was still a cycle ride back to the car, thankfully mostly downhill. The wind and rain closed in just before dusk to make it more interesting - somehow the hills managed to channel it into a headwind almost all the way :lol: - but it was nice to sit down and let gravity do some of the work.

Thus ended my traverse of Foinaven - the hardest hill I've been on for many a year, and worth every step of the way. I'm glad I went for the full traverse: airy ridges or not, the hill has a huge amount of character and deserves to be appreciated.


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Last edited by Pastychomper on Mon Oct 04, 2021 8:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Foinaven: Four jewels on a string of scree

Postby SMRussell » Thu Sep 23, 2021 6:21 pm

:clap:
Fabulous, what an effort and cracking photos as well.
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Re: Foinaven: Four jewels on a string of scree

Postby Pastychomper » Mon Oct 04, 2021 6:37 pm

Thanks, glad you liked it. The weather was definitely on my side that day.
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Re: Foinaven: Four jewels on a string of scree

Postby Mal Grey » Mon Oct 04, 2021 8:03 pm

Excellent stuff. Looks like a worthy route for these hills.

Despite my love of the Far North West, and many visits, I still haven't visited Foinaven.
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Re: Foinaven: Four jewels on a string of scree

Postby weaselmaster » Thu Oct 07, 2021 6:52 pm

Foinaven, my favourite mountain. Glad to see you got the weather to do it justice- and an interesting if unusual route😆. And perseverance pays off. I’m determined to do a circuit with Arkle at some point.
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Re: Foinaven: Four jewels on a string of scree

Postby rockhopper » Sat Oct 09, 2021 12:41 am

Good to see you got there in the end - a fine route, would like to do the traverse some day - cheers :)
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Re: Foinaven: Four jewels on a string of scree

Postby Cyclescrambler » Fri Apr 29, 2022 12:07 pm

Hi all, great report about the epic Foinaven traverse.
Question for those who have done this with only use of 1 car.
As I see it there are 3 options
1) Park at Gualin House, 16 mile cycle to Achfary/Lone, before complete hike traverse. Looks mostly downhill cycle. Hike to car and then drive round to Achfary to get the bike.
2) Drop bike at Gualin House, drive to Achfary/Lone (if permitted to drive over bridge to Lone. Hike Foinaven traverse and then do the 16 mile cycle back to Achfary.
3) Park at Achfary/Lone (drive in as far as allowed). Mountain bike up to Bealach Horn. Leave bike at Bealach Horn. Do Foinaven traverse both ways E->W to Ganu Mor and Ceann Garbh, then turn round and hike back whole way to Bealach Horn. Then mountain bike downhill to car at Lone/Achfary.
Has anyone ever done the Out and Back with mountain bike (option 3)? Basically a massive double traverse to save oneself 16 miles of road biking. I’m thinking Option 1 or 2 must be easier than mountain biking uphill to Bealach Horn and doing a double full ridge traverse. Any advice appreciated as I’m hoping to do this ridge in June. Ta
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Re: Foinaven: Four jewels on a string of scree

Postby kaye.cantlay » Sun May 01, 2022 6:54 am

Cyclescrambler....

I sort of did option 3 a couple of weeks ago as I only had one vehicle and no bike.
Started at Achfary and walked up to Bealach Horn - did the out and back of Foinaven as far as Ganu Mor, then ascended Arkle via Lochan na Faoileige, then did an out and back of the Arkle ridge, then descent and back to Achfary.
Took about 12 hours and quite an effort, but I think doing Foinaven alone by that route would be very manageable - might take 8-9 hours?
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Re: Foinaven: Four jewels on a string of scree

Postby Pastychomper » Tue May 03, 2022 10:54 am

I'd be tempted to leave the bike in the woods after Lone (just before the steep bit) instead of riding all the way to Bealach Horn, but I was never much of a mountain biker. Just biking the first section would still knock a fair bit off the approach time.

I'm sure there's a report on here somewhere where someone went down the north end of Arkle. Iirc the descent was pretty rough but it would provide a way to do a full circuit of both hills after cycling in.
Last edited by Pastychomper on Thu May 05, 2022 8:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Foinaven: Four jewels on a string of scree

Postby kaye.cantlay » Tue May 03, 2022 12:41 pm

A full circuit of both hills can be done - as per the Birkett ridge book.
And avoids the 2 out and backs of the ridges that I did.
It does still need a bike or second car as the start and finish are a few miles apart.
Start at Loch Stack lodge, stalkers path to the N side of Arkle with an ascent of Arkle starting at the high point of the stalkers path - very steep.
Arkle ridge and south summit, descend via the lochan na faoileige, then ascent of Foinaven and ridge.
Could descend far end of Foinaven ridge to finish at Guilin (as per the route on this site),or as per the irkett book to descend off Ceann Garbh and finish somewhere near the Rhiconich Hotel.
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