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This is a walk I've been contemplating ever since I first huffed, puffed and cursed my way up Moel Sych, a classic example of bog ridden Welsh hills with numerous false summits and neck craning steepness. I did not fall in love with this hill. I far prefer ridges, rocks and crags though not on the way down mind you!
I remember the tantalising view of the rocky ridge to Cadair Berwyn and the knee knocking drop down to Llyn Lluncaws and decided I'd be back.
The weather forecast for this weekend had started as a complete wash out and gradually improved throughout the week. Rain seemed inevitable but glimpses of sunshine were on the cards too so we decided to tackle this ridge on Sunday.
By 10.30am we were at the car park and I was a little nervous as I'd forgotten my inhaler at home. It's like a safety blanket, I don't need it 90% of the time but knowing it's there makes all the difference.
After getting kitted up and casting a few admiring glances at Pistyll Rhaeadr which was crashing down the hill side full of winter water, we set off up the hillside to find the path that would lead us along Nant y Llyn, passed some glorious waterfalls up on to the shoulder of Cadair Berwyn.
The grassy path looked benign enough and I'm not sure whether it was the game of squash and 4.5km march we did around Haughmond Hill on Saturday but both of us suffered from severely moaning legs. I was further hindered by the niggle about my lungs and lack of drugs. On we plodded though, shedding layers and adding them as the weather sent beams of glorious warm sun shine followed by hail stones and gusts.
Eventually after about 600m ascent the path narrowed and we picked our way along Craig y Lly with a precipitous drop to the right down to Llyn Lluncaws. I forgot all about my inhaler and my legs seemed to find a new lease of life which happens to me every time I can sense I'm near the top. We met a guy who was on his way down who warned us the path along the ridge was very slippery and we could see distinctive slip marks on the track where either he or others had skidded in the mud. Gradually we made our way up and were joined for a short while by a lady who was out on her own and apparently appreciated being behind us as it gave her ample opportunity to stop for a breather.... hmmmm... I prefer to think we merely stopped to take in the view/take photos/change layers/have a bite to eat but the fact of the matter was we were knackered!
Cadair Berwyn makes you work. First we encountered a rocky outcrop which reminded me very much of Sgor Gaoith, especially with cloud swirling around it. That's the summit right? Nope. On we go to what initially looks like a giant cairn but is actually a circular shelter. That's the summit! Nope. This was a great opportunity however to get out of the wind and stop for lunch. Happy as a pig in muck I fished out my new Esbit stove which was having it's first outing. I was really looking forward to a hot chocolate brewed on the mountain. I will do a review of the stove soon. Suffice to say I was very happy with it, it's sturdy as you like, very practical and well thought out. The solid fuel tablets are not easy to light though and it did take two of them to boil 500ml of water. It's also slower than a gas stove but who cares, whilst it was brewing we had sandwiches and I had time for a rollie. Because obviously suffering with asthma, having no inhaler with me and being overweight, smoking is a great idea right? Never mind, I felt like a kid having a big adventure in the outdoors.
We could see the true summit of Cadair Berwyn a few 100m ahead so packed up our kit and headed off for compulsory summit photo. Once there we decided to push on to Cadair Bronwen although all I thought I wanted to do was head back. I've done that too many times before and regretted it. We had done the really hard work and it's not as if you'd get to Cadair Bronwen in isolation so off we trotted.
It was easy enough initially though the path was boggy in places and still hugged the ridge. After a while the path veers North East, over a stile and then heads pretty much due North towards the summit of Cadair Bronwen.
This section of the walk is welsh bog hopping at it's finest. Energy sapping, boot sucking bog though in sections the path has been covered with railway sleepers covered in plastic mesh where the bog is especially nasty. This did feel like a giant cheat but I wasn't complaining. Getting to the summit of Cadair Bronwen was sheer slog but we summitted and were very, very happy to do so. This is the first time we've ever encompassed several tops in one walk and there was another one waiting for us on the way back.
We were lucky enough to have a clear view and no rain when we reached the summit however a look to the west showed the rain clouds rolling in. Sure enough, barely off the summit the rain and wind came in.
As we retraced the path to Cadair Berwyn we got a taste of true Welsh mountain weather and the going through the bog was hard work.
From Cadair Berwyn we continued South West to the summit of Moel Sych and stopped again for compulsory photo posing. Our third top! Tired and happy we start the plod down Moel Sych back to the car. Again there's a fair amount of bog hopping.
I'd suggested that walking through the water was probably easier than trying to step from one patch of vegetation to the other which is what Fiona was doing. She said she hoped I would have a Vicar of Dibley moment ... for those of you who watched that episode you know exactly what she was alluding to .. for those of you who haven't, watch it! Anyhow less than five minutes later I disappear up to mid thigh in the bog. Fortunately my right leg hasn't gone in as far so I haul myself out and end up on all fours laughing so hard there's almost another incident! Full points to my aptly named Keela Scuffer trousers. The ankle zip, Velcro fasteners around the ankle and welt inner ankle panel prevented my boots from filling with bog water.
Nevertheless I look like a creature from Middle Earth as we continue plodding down the hill.
I conclude as the hill descent punishes my legs that I still don't like Moel Sych but we've had the most glorious day out and I'm really proud of our achievement. Both of us and our gear were really tested. We were not found wanting, even if that masochist Naismith would have suggested otherwise!
- Cadair Berwyn ridge
- Yours truly - cool, calm and collected.... I think not!
- Fiona giving it some walking pole action
- Me at Cadair Berwyn summit, the ridge in the back ground
- Sleeper path to Cadair Bronwen, very convenient but it does scar the landscape somewhat
- Looking slightly more knackered - Cadair Bronwen summit
- View from Cadair Bronwen just before the rain came in.
- The path back to Cadair Berwyn
- Cadair Berwyn looking slightly menacing
- Oh my god that sandwich tasted good - pastrami & roule, shame I'm still chomping on it!
- Moel Sych summit with Berwyns in the back ground.
- Somewhere tantalisingly close the sun was shining!