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These hills were still unclimbed. What I'd read meant other options had always won when deciding what to do next! Not the hills themselves but the boggy approach through the woods. Memories lurked of the forest of gloop going up Ben Lui and these hills were near neighbours. But I wanted to do them and asked Donnie Campbell about it after his round of the Munros last August. He said the woods were fine and occasional muddy patches easily avoided, which in his case was in running shoes not waterproof boots. So Beinn Dubhchraig and Ben Oss were back on the "to do soon" list and I only had to persuade my pal it was a good idea!
We had booked a lodge in St Fillans in early June and I reckoned after a dry spring it would give us as good conditions as we were ever likely to get. Moira agreed we should give it a go and in the run up to the week we watched the forecast nervously as it looked like the long settled spell of weather was about to break. There was mention of a fair amount of wind and rain and the best weather day looked like being the first day when we normally would have stayed local, taking in our surroundings. But needs must where hills are involved and it proved to be the right decision.
We left the car in the large car park at Dalrigh and headed off to cross the familiar track from when we did the WHW three years earlier. It was a beautiful morning.
Crianlarich hills in cloud
Ben Lui in cloud, taken from bridge over River Cononish
Moira and Keira with target hills ahead on left
Reports I'd read gave varying accounts of the boggy field to be crossed (or avoided) to reach a footbridge over the Allt Gleann Auchreoch. Some suggested sticking to the edge of the field, others to continue on the track which would add some distance but be less boggy. Conditions have clearly improved since these were written as there is now an excellent path across the field to the bridge.
Right fork leading to bridge
Bridge over Allt Gleann Auchreoch
Now we were into the wood renowned for muddiness... let the fun begin!
Coille Coire-Chuilc wood, remnant of original Caledonian pine forest
As descriptions suggested, it's a beautiful woodland and was (for us) mainly dry underfoot.
First muddy patch to be crossed with help of conveniently placed planks
A sprinkling of bluebells
Once clear of the woods the path was easy to follow up the side of the Allt Coire Dubhcraig, which was good for Keira as she loves nothing more than a paddle or a proper dook if it's deep enough. I encourage her to do this as it keeps her cool and reduces the amount of water I need to carry.
Dog leading the way
Leaving the woods behind
Cooling pool and twin-topped Ben Challum
No shortage of rocky pools
White stones a good marker on the way down
Still on good path
Cascade of mini waterfalls
Once on the level back of the ridge a cairn marks where to turn SE for the easy short climb up Beinn Dubhchraig.
Keira checking Moira turns at the cairn
By the time we reached the top it had clouded over so summit photos are dull.
Beinn Dubhchraig summit
Moira with Crianlarich hills behind
West to Ben Oss and Ben Lui
After a quick snack we returned to the ridge to continue on the path to Ben Oss.
One of several small lochans on the ridge
Ben Lui ahead
There were no difficulties but I remember one place crossing a rocky gully that needed a bit of care (roughly translated as bum shuffle). We met a guy decending Ben Oss who insisted we'd be better not to follow the usual path but to take a line south up a grassy slope. He said the path was eroded and unpleasant on descent. We thanked him for his advice and stuck to the main path, which turned out to be fine.
Clear path up Ben Oss
The view that greets you when you reach the summit makes all the effort worthwhile. Ben Lui is stunning and the views all round are fabulous.
Ben Oss summit 1029m
Triumphant Moira at summit with Ben Cruachan behind pole
Keira, me and distinctive peak of Ben Lui
Beinn Dubhchraig from descent of Ben Oss
The descent was no problem and the reclimb of Dubhchraig less tiring than expected. The bum shuffle place I mentioned before was more tricky in ascent for those of shorter limb and I had to resort to hands and knees for one bit where I couldn't get my foot up.
Loch Oss from reascent of Dubhchraig
Zoomed to Ben and Loch Lomond
Dubhchraig summit ahead
Labrador heaven
We reached the cairn and started the long descent to Dalrigh.
Rock pools again
Ben Challum again
The woods again
Someone had commented that the descent seems to go on forever and I think we both found it long, particularly where there was a choice of paths through the trees. At one point I realised I was nearer to the burn than I'd been on ascent and moved left to find a higher path but in the process had to cross a boggy area which made me wish I'd stayed where I was and called out to Moira not to follow me. There are various permutations of paths through the woods and the one we came up seemed better and drier than the one we came down, but maybe that was down to us being tired on the descent.
It was good to be back at the bridge again
While waiting for Moira I was kept entertained watching a chap crouching at the river edge as if he was washing the dishes. I put Keira on the lead to stop her going to investigate. Then I remembered seeing an episode of a TV series about gold and silver mining that has recently restarted in Glen Cononish.
Is he panning for gold?
Whatever treasure folk might search for in these hills, we felt we had found it that day. Negotiating the woods after a dry spell was no problem, the climb up by the burn was lovely and we had wonderful views from the two summits. Altogether a fabulous day and the highlight of our week.