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It's late, it's late but not too late

It's late, it's late but not too late


Postby BlackPanther » Thu Oct 28, 2021 8:15 pm

Route description: Findlater Castle from Cullen

Date walked: 10/10/2021

Time taken: 3.75 hours

Distance: 11.8 km

Ascent: 145m

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...and it's never too late to visit Findlater!

After three weeks away from the hills to nurse his badly bashed rib, Kevin decided he was ready for some exercise with his rucksack on. I didn't want to push him too far though, we didn't know how his sore ribcage would survive several hours of intense exercise. So no hills just yet (weather was too sh**e for serious hillwalking anyway) but a nice walk along the cliffs. We had been to Cullen and Findlater Castle many times before (we walked the whole Moray Coast Trail over a couple of years in stages) so this wouldn't be anything new for us, but this is a lovely stretch of coast, always worth a re-visit.

Forecast was dry in the morning, wind and passing showers in the afternoon. We started early to take advantage of the better weather earlier in the day. Did the usual route from the village of Cullen, following the cliff path to the castle, returning the same way. Our GPS lost the signal while we were exploring the ruins, resulting in some strange straight lines on the map - apologies for that. Apparently, it only takes an old ruin to defeat modern technology :lol: :lol:

NOTE: the path east of the castle (between Findlater ruins and Sandend Bay) is closed due to landslide.


Track_FINDLATER 11.8KM.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts


The morning in Cullen was lovely but we knew this was just the silence before the storm. The tide was out, a lot of sand to wander around:
2021-10-10 findlater 002.JPG

We didn't waste time to play in sand; left the car at the large car park by the Three Kings and walked east past the harbour:
2021-10-10 findlater 015.JPG

The harbour in Cullen is tidal; in the background, the famous viaducts of Cullen.
2021-10-10 findlater 018.JPG

There are four of them: Cullen Seafield Street Viaduct, Cullen Castle Street Viaduct, Cullen North Deskford Street Bridge and Cullen Burn Viaduct. They were built in 1884-1886 and served until 1968 when the North Coast Railway Line was closed (and dismantled), but the impressive constructions still stand today and are used as walkways. One can't imagine Cullen without them!
More info about the viaducts on RAILSCOT webpage.
2021-10-10 findlater 064.JPG

Leaving the village behind, we followed a well maintained path along the bottom of the cliffs. The coast is very rugged here:
2021-10-10 findlater 034.JPG

We spent some time watching and photographing local birds. Out of breeding season, they are less frequent but we still spotted a few groups, mostly gulls and cormorants, on the rocks just off shore:
2021-10-10 findlater 051.JPG

2021-10-10 findlater 075.JPG

The path has been easy to follow so far, but it was just about to become bumpy:
2021-10-10 findlater 068.JPG

Logie Head rocks busy with rock climbers!
2021-10-10 findlater 085.JPG

Some impressive coastal rocks just past Logie Head:
2021-10-10 findlater 082.JPG

We took a short detour to a small shingle beach. The sea was still quiet and we wondered if the forecast bad front would arrive at all...
2021-10-10 findlater 221.JPG
Peace and tranquility...

The next stage was...ehmmm... a bit overgrown. Kevin nearly got lost :lol:
2021-10-10 findlater 225.JPG
The bracken jungle

Once out of the high bracken, we emerged on the West Sands beach. This is a lovely spot; the sand is very yellow and when tide is low, one can play hide and seek amongst the rocks:
2021-10-10 findlater 097.JPG

We spend a few minutes on the beach, but I was eager to get to the castle before the weather broke, so we went for broke :lol: :lol: It required some more heather bashing and balancing on muddy path, but we are used to such inconveniences...
2021-10-10 findlater 105.JPG

West Sands from above:
2021-10-10 findlater 102.JPG

2021-10-10 findlater 106.JPG

The path climbed up the cliffs and after another half a mile, it reached Findlater Castle. Or what is left of this mighty fortress today:
2021-10-10 findlater 111.JPG

I described the ruins of Findlater and the castle history in my TR about Bin Of Cullen so I'm not going to repeat myself. Despite the castle being in the final stage of falling to pieces, it is one of my favourite ruins. Maybe because visiting this place always feels like balancing on a thin line?
2021-10-10 findlater 314.JPG

The castle is situated on a very rocky promontory and the path descending to the ruins has been badly eroded in recent years. If you decided to visit the ruins, please do so with care. The soil here is muddy and sticky, so it is very easy to go A over T on the path :lol:
2021-10-10 findlater 114.JPG

The surviving part of the main building:
2021-10-10 findlater 121.JPG

The same structure seen from the opposite side:
2021-10-10 findlater 275.JPG

Bedroom with a view... This wall is all that's left of the upper half of the main building:
2021-10-10 findlater 132.JPG

Descending into the guts of the ruins is not recommended... but try to stop us :lol: :lol:
2021-10-10 findlater 140.JPG

It is possible (with care) to scramble down to the bottom level:
2021-10-10 findlater 149.JPG

The cellars are dark and damp... Not a place a Panther would like to live in...
2021-10-10 findlater 289.JPG

...but I didn't mind a quick exploration:
2021-10-10 findlater 167.JPG

The easiest way out is through a crack in the wall:
2021-10-10 findlater 290.JPG

...which leads to the steep slopes at the bottom of the structure:
2021-10-10 findlater 296.JPG

We descended to the small shingle beach below the ruins for a hot cuppa and a cookie; the tide was coming in slowly bu the forecast stormy front was nowhere to be seen (or heard).
Findlater from below:
2021-10-10 findlater 178.JPG

Findlater Castle seen from the beach near Logie Head:
2021-10-10 findlater 203.JPG

Weather was just about to turn, so w retraced our steps back to Cullen, taking more photos on the way back. The rock climbers still occupied their favourite spot:
2021-10-10 findlater 323.JPG

Showers passing north of the coast:
2021-10-10 findlater 214.JPG

The rain arrived just as we returned to the village; we timed it right! Kevin said he could feel his bashed ribs a bit after several hours of carrying his rucksack, but he could definitely see the improvement. His recovery was just a matter of time.

A week later he passed the ultimate test, walking up a Corbett in Torridon. He should be fully fit for the winter season :D
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BlackPanther
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Re: It's late, it's late but not too late

Postby rockhopper » Thu Oct 28, 2021 8:31 pm

That looked a rather interesting area for a walk - good to hear that Kevin is improving. :)

As usual, an interesting title - must dig out my old "News of the World" vinyl and have a listen.........
It's late when I'm bleeding deep inside
It's late, ooh, is it just my sickly pride ?
Too late, even now the feeling seems to steal away
So late, though I'm crying I can't help but hear you say
It's late, it's late, it's late, but not too late


- cheers :)
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Re: It's late, it's late but not too late

Postby gld73 » Fri Oct 29, 2021 10:42 am

I really enjoyed doing the Moray Coast Trail, it's a lovely walk. I didn't extend the walk to Findlater Castle though, so it was good to read your report, gives me another good non-hill day destination for when the weather isn't suitable for mountains :D
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