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I have no recollection of having climbed An Cruachan twice before. I haven't marked it off in my "bagging map" but I have filed two reports for having climbed it...oh well - it'll go towards a third round of Grahams, just don't tell Allison.
This weekend I thought we might just squeeze in a longer walk before daylight totally deserts us. The forecast wasn't awful and Allison was keen to get some more Munro Tops under her belt for the year.So I dredged up a route I'd planned some months ago in Kintail taking in a couple of Grahams, a couple of Corbetts and the Munro Tops on Ceathreamhnan. We'd done something similar before from Killilan - this time I thought we'd go from Morvich. A miserable night for a drive up - rain and darkness. Still, we pitched at our usual spot in Kintail in a break in the rain and both had a restful night. Malt of the day was Seaweed & Aeons & Digging & Fire - a 10 yr old Islay from an undisclosed distillery, peaty and sherried, mmm.
In the morning we drove the short distance to the mountain rescue car park at Morvich, got set up to go and met a trio of grizzled guys who were going up Hunters Ridge. Along the Abhainn Chonaig and into Dorusduain wood where we might have camped last night had it not been so late. We continued up the path towards Bealach na Sroine, cutting up left at the lochan to make for Carnan Cruithneachd, one of the more spectacular Grahams - when seen from the Glen Elchaig side anyway. There was an ATV track that we kept encountering - it seemed to weave any which way, but end up where we wanted to go. A short steep climb to the summit, where we found a eulogy to Charel Schyvens in Dutch. As you expect on a remote Graham...
Allison "Is that a weight-bearing skull?"
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
The less photogenic side of Cruithneachd
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Down for lunch, then a squelch across the moorland, sometimes following the elusive ATV track or that of deer, til we regained the path to Glomach. We'd seen the falls before, 8 years ago, and I remembered that it was quite difficult to get a good position to see the full drop. We did descend towards the viewpoint, but the rocks were slippy and the consequences of a fall considerable. We made do with enjoying the roar of the water as it cascaded down, feeling the very earth vibrate under our boots. The path that runs down beside the falls is quite challenging in places, slippy and wet and needed care. Not a place to rush about. So our progress was on the slow side. We headed across the bridges onto the track to Iron Lodge, aware that time was getting on. The autumnal colours were pretty however, and there was no-one else around.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
A more glamorous view of Cruithneachd
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Loch na Leitreach
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Al, on Flickr
I had hoped to go up Aonach Bhuidhe from the An From-Allt valley, then return to the track via the eastern shoulder, bringing us out at the top end of Loch Mhoicean where we'd camped once before. However it was clear that there was not going to be time for this - the pitching spots up by the loch are not easy to find in the dark - we could either head up the track and pitch, missing out Aonach Bhuidhe (or maybe I could do it in the morning - some chance!) or we could pitch by the footbridge over the An Crom-Allt and I could nip up and down while Allison put up the tent. This seemed the best option, though it would leave us a bit behind schedule in the morning. Whilst she took her pick of several good spots, I headed up the SW shoulder. It was 4pm when I set off, so I hoped to get to the summit before the dark fully fell, and I knew I'd have a descent by head torch. It would have to be a big Corbett - 899m. Steady going, I got to the summit cairn just as darkness fell. I stuck my poles into the ground in a line to the summit, something I often do in poor visibility if we're descending by the same route - however try as I might, I could not find the poles in the darkness/mist/smirr. I did find one, eventually, but if anyone comes across a poor abandoned pole near the summit cairn of Aonach Bhuidhe, do take it home and make it feel welcome - it's done a good few hills with me, that one.
Aonach Bhuidhe
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Descent was a bit unpleasant - I managed to find many pools and marshy spots I'd missed on the way up, and it took me just as long to get down as it had to climb up. Eventually I could see a faint light which I took to be the tent, although it seemed to be further away from where I'd left Allison than I remembered. Maybe it was fairy-folk luring me to my death...no, it was Allison in the tent. A welcome meal of Huel awaited, then the Malt of the Day, a Welsh one; Penderyn Sherry finish. Not a very good sleep for some reason.
Given that we were behind schedule, I did something I never do - I set an alarm for 6:15 so we'd be able to set off at daybreak. The tent was saturated with condensation, the morning was misty and wet, and we had a long walk ahead of us to An Cruachan (which, I now realise, we didn't need to climb
) It's a steep pull up the track to the loch, then moderately easier going along Coire nan Each - wet underfoot. We passed a couple of large stags. I got to thinking: wouldn't it be good if, when you were tired, a large stag would come up to you and offer a ride on its back for a while? You'd have antlers to hold onto. Anyway...We headed up to the bealach with An Socach and thence up the grassy strip that leads to the summit. Having read my report for the ascent in 2018 I still can't remember it, though I do vividly remember our first climb up here in 2016 with possibly the worst midges ever encountered on our travels. Allison was really struggling, feeling drained of energy - she'd had her Flu/Covid booster on Wednesday, which might have had something to do with that. We made it back along to Loch Mhoicean and paused to consider our options. Had I come up with a route that was too challenging for the time of year? The stealing of hours of daylight/climbing time? What was concerning me was just where we might camp if we did set off up Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan today. Allison suggested we just go on and see where we got to.
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Al, on Flickr
It's a long way (to a Graham you don't need to do...)
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Al, on Flickr
Good camping spots around the ox-bows in the river here
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Al, on Flickr
And this is her unaware she didn't need to climb up here. I'm getting slapped when she sees me next...
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Al, on Flickr
Loch Mhoicean
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Al, on Flickr
The next section, heading between Meall Shuas and Carn na Breabag was more deer-track boggy hillside. We met with a path - initially imaginary, then becoming more tangible that ran parallel to the Allt na Criche and met with a better stalkers path going along towards Gleann Sithidh. We took a smaller path heading for Druim Beag, one of the ridges that leads up to Ceathreamhnan. The lower part of the path would suit those Walkhighlanders who have an amphibious capability, or at least sub-aqua gear with them...bogs, peat hags and streams. We continued to follow the fence line which took us our of the morass and onto quite pleasant ground. We came to a flattish area, well sheltered from the wind at about three o'clock. To stop here, wasting 90 minutes of usable time, or to continue on to try and find a patchable spot higher up? I had noted the possibility of camping under the first MT of Stuc Fraoch Coire, where there is a lochan and a flattish looking area on the map - but if this wasn't useable then we'd be screwed as darkness would quickly be upon us. Both of us were tired and decided to stop early, pitch in a suitable location and make the rest up tomorrow, with another "alarm call". That was the right shout I think. We had time to wander about looking at the hills as the daylight turned to twilight. There was an inversion to the north, the clag on the northern Mullardochs was gradually clearing. We had time for an early tea when it was still light, then a peaceful evening (Malt of the Day being Lagavuilin 16 Distillers Edition finished in sherry casks - notice any connexion between the malts this weekend? This was our favourite btw).
Towards Gleann Sithidh
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Al, on Flickr
Another "ex-footbridge"
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
The summit of An Riabhachan about to appear
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Despite being at over 600m it was surprisingly mild overnight and the threatened wind didn't materialise, or we were well shielded from it. Another early start - breakfast by head torch and setting off along the fence line when it was light enough to see. After an hour we made it into Fraoch Coire - it would have been ok to camp in, although a bit soggy and not protected from the winds. Steeply up onto the MT then along the fence line to the remaining Tops. I remembered back to my circuit of the Mullardochs and Tops when I camped on Mullach nan Dheiragain and went along and back these 4 tops as the sun was setting. We decided to go over to the main summit from the West Top - although I'd forgotten how slender the ridge is in places and wasn't really enjoying it today
Back to the West Top and down the southern shoulder, once again following our fence line familiar. I can't think of any other time Ive followed the same fence line for two consecutive days. It got me thinking about the heavy iron rods, the big stones that needed to be moved to fix the rods into when there wasn't suitable bedrock; drilling or chiselling holes in the rock for the stanchions to slot into; pouring molten lead in to set the stanchions in place and then passing several strands of wire through each. How many hundreds and thousands of hours work did it take, for something that is now merely an aid to navigation in bad weather?
Our fence line
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Al, on Flickr
Fraoch Coire
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Good shot of the rim of Meall Shuas
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Al, on Flickr
The rarely seen Coire Lochan
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Al, on Flickr
Stone-age Helipad sign...
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Al, on Flickr
From West Top to Ceathreamhnan
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Al, on Flickr
I still look crazed
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Al, on Flickr
We continued downwards whilst I was doing my musing and sat having lunch at the bealach with Sgurr Gaorsaic, which looked very steep from here. The fence line did run right up the side of the hill to the summit, so it seemed reasonable to keep it close. This isn't Allison's favourite Corbett (traumatic descent in July 2013) so I was surprised she bothered coming up with me. Anyhow we got to the top, some good views over the Kintail hills, then continued to follow our fence line down to the track at Loch a'Bhealaich which leads to Bealach an Sgairne. A faint drizzle was in the air now and we didn't meet anyone else in the valley, as we returned tired but pleased back to the car.
Gaorsaic
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
I really enjoyed this weekend's walk although I do need to be more switched-on about how far we can manage in a day in the dark months of the year, and to have thought a bit more about camping locations in keeping with the reduced distances we can cover given the retreating daylight. Maybe we will get in some more three-dayers although that depends also on the presence or absence of snow...
