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The drive to Durness has always filled me with excitement. Its such a far flung village and the drive, specially from Inchnadampf up north is simply stunning. The single track road which marks the end of the journey was always filled with excitement to finally reach the top of Scotland, so not paying much attention to the hills might on the right might be excused.
- The road up north
During a trip in May I looked at the map to find some suitable hills I noticed Cranstackie and Beinn Spionnaidh on the map.
Researching both hills I came across the fact that Beinn Spionnaidh is not only the furthest Corbett up north, but also the highest peak over 2500 feet. Together with the fact that the views must be amazing and a few good days were on the forecast our next outing was planned.
- The hills from the road
It was a gorgeous day when we parked at the small lay-by. The path towards the farm was a gentle walk in and by the time we started climbing up hill, the sun was beating down and we were sweating buckets. The steep rocky path soon frizzled out and was replaced by a long slog up a grassy slope. A respite was given when we reached the flattish area close to Calbhach Coire. Also a great place to camp I thought , while we walked towards the steep cliffs ahead. The walk up towards the bealach looked impressive but at the end wasn't as bad as it had looked.
- The start of the walk with lovely views towards Arcle
- The farm and road in the distance when the climb starts
- Calbhach Coire after the first climb...great place for a wild camp too
The path followed a burn and on hindsight I really should have filled up my water bottle before we reached the top, as we did not cross another water source later on. It was a steep climb, but the views back gave plenty of excused to stop (or take a breather) Once we reached the bealach between the two Corbetts (a rather damp and soggy spot) we found a dry area and had something to eat. Views towards Loch Eriboll could be enjoyed and a small breeze brought some relieve from the hot sun.
- Near the bealach
- The bealach
Once we had packed up and started our journey up Cranstackie it became apparent what made these 2 Corbetts quite difficult...large boulder fields! Balancing amongst these rocks, made the climb not any faster and once we reached the top, the large boulder field continued until we finally reached the summit cairn. Its the time when you start wishing for solid frozen snow!
- View towards Beinn Spionnaidh
- Kevin balancing the boulder field
The effort was however rewarded with lovely views towards Arkle and Foinhaven and out in the north west, I could make out Sandwood Bay, Kinlochbervie and Oldshoremore.
- Durness and the fantastic dunes in the distance
- Out towards the west
- Me at the summit
Towards the north Beinn Spionnaidh framed the fantstic views towards the Kyle of Durness and mighty Atlantic. We stayed for a long time, there was no rush but the view towards the boulder field brought us back to reality. We had to return the way we came.
- The walk towards Beinn Spionnaidh
Back down to the bealach, the walk up Beinn Spionnaidh had looked daunting, but is was far easier than I had expected. Believing (or mayby wishful thinking) that the summit would be a lovely grassy top was soon shattered . Another large (even larger?) boulder fields greeted us and the painful navigation from one boulder to the the next started. A relaxing walk to enjoy views wasn't possible, unless one stood still.
- The boulders started again with the view back towards
- Endless summit
However the views from Beinn Spionnaidh were out of this world.
The feeling and knowledge that you are standing at the highest point of mainland Scotland is not just a fact, but you can feel and see it. The Atlantic fills the horizon, the sea cliffs right next to Loch Eribil can clearly be seen. The dunes at Balnakeil, the small islands just off the mainland and the endless sky in the distance. I could not stop taking pictures, I just wanted to bottle this memory forever..this was truly spectacular!
- The top of Scotland
- Panoramic views
- Towards Loch Eribol
I walked along the summit...not caring about boulders just taking in the views. Looking across Loch Eribol, Ben Hope and Ben Loyal filled the landscape and brought back happy memories. Looking back Cranstakie rose above the waterfilled landscape, but my views kept up darting north.
- More views
After what felt like hours we dragged ourself away and we made the return journey. Once passed the boulders which were incredibly unstable and wobbly, the walk down was a knee killer. Steep, torturous and far longer than we had anticipated. Needless to say reaching the farm and a proper path again was a relief . Before we continued back to the car, we stopped at a low burn and put our feet into it....the relief was amazing!
- The way back down
- View towards Cranstackie again
- Welcome sight of the farmhouse
- Looking back towards the hills
Refreshed we continued along the path back to the car. Sunburned, knackered, rather thirsty , but what a pair of hills!
- The road back home