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Since his 282nd Munro Ian has been using his days off to get round the Corbetts. He doesn't have his own transport so I occasionally try to think of hills not easily accessible by public transport that I wouldn't mind doing myself. It had cost him £50 for a taxi along Loch Arkaig to climb three Munros and walk all the way back to Spean Bridge... so I came up with the idea of offering him a lift to climb the Arkaig Corbetts. I tried to get a group together but in the end it was just Ian, me and the dog.
After driving the atmospheric Dark Mile (from DK Broster's trilogy on the aftermath of the Battle of Culloden when Cameron of Lochiel gave shelter to Jacobites on the run) we parked in a clearing surrounded by trees on the north side of the road. From there we walked about 500m west along the road and just before a bridge over the Allt Dubh turned right and headed north through a gate to follow a hydro track uphill.
Winding hydro track
Loch Arkaig
The track ends at a small dam from where we continued up the glen by a stalkers path on the east side of the Allt Dubh. When we started off the sky was filled with cloud but, as photos show, this began to change.
Chinks of blue appearing
The path gradually peters out but despite having failed to discuss the intended route with her, Keira had no problem continuing in the direction of our target hill, Meall na h-Eilde. In my experience dogs have a pretty good sense of the direction to take, probably from a highly developed sense of smell detecting where feet have been. There is of course the risk they will lead you off on a wild goose chase after hare or deer so it's still best to keep a close eye on the map.
Guide dog
SW shoulder of Meall na h-Eilde
West side of Meall na Teanga
We had a few ups and downs over burns to reach the shoulder, not difficult walking but takes a bit longer.
Oh no, not this posing thing again
Crossed at this water feature before starting up the shoulder
It was steep to start with but there were plenty of excuses to stop for a breather and enjoy the views that only got better the higher we climbed. This is a seriously scenic part of the country. You can also imagine Cameron of Lochiel's men watching from vantage points for any sign of Redcoats on the horizon.
SW to Gulvain and others
East to Meall na Teanga
South to Aonachs and Grey Corries
There is a slightly false summit feeling when you reach point 681m, after which the route dips before continuing on a more gradual ascent to the actual summit, which feels further away than you first expect.
Meall na h-Eilde summit (838m)
She secretly doesn't mind the posing
It was a scenic spot for lunch so we dropped down slightly from the summit and found a place to sit with superb views west and north.
View north
West to Meall Coire nan Saobhaibh and Geal Charn
I could see the way ahead, up and over Meall Coire nan Saobhaibh to the second Corbett, Geal Charn. It looked straightforward but I'm always aware my pace is slow compared to Ian's, who is younger and fitter and has climbed all the Munros without the benefit of his own transport! And I don't like holding folk up. So I came up with a cunning plan. Rather than climbing up and over the middle hill (826m) I would traverse round it on its south side. That would save some energy on ascent I didn't have to do and I'd meet Ian on the other side. What could possibly go wrong?
Zoomed to Rough Bounds of Knoydart
Fenceposts lead to Bealach Choir a' Ghuirein
We followed the fenceposts NNW then NW for the Bealach Choire a' Ghuirein where Keira, true to her breed, made a beeline for the pool.
Bealachs are good for cooling off
Loch Garry and windfarm
Nevis range clearing
Zoomed to Loch Quoich
Zoomed to Ben Nevis
I started up the second Meall with Ian but at the pyschologically right moment told him I thought I'd save myself some time by walking round it rather than over it. I started my traverse and soon lost sight of him. It wasn't a difficult traverse but wasn't as solid underfoot as climbing the hill would have been. As I reached what I thought would be beyond the summit point I kept looking up for any sign of Ian on his descent but there was nothing. It started to dawn on me this was not one of my brighter ideas. Going round the hill probably meant covering a greater distance than up and over would have been.
Eventually I spotted a figure over on the far side of the Bealach Carn na h-Urchaire (much wider than the previous bealach) and once again I was playing catch up. I would have been better sticking with the recommended route, walking on firm ground and soaking up the views from the top to the Rough Bounds of Knoydart. It was a daft mistake and once I caught up with the patiently waiting Ian I had no more bright ideas about improvising the route.
North from slopes of Geal Charn
The climb up Geal Charn was short and sweet (steeper than the hill I avoided climbing) and this time we were almost immediately at the trig point summit. The views were stunning.
Ian at Geal Charn summit (804m)
Me and the mutt
East to Meall na h-Eilde
Zoomed to Loch Lochy hills
Loch Arkaig
And again - couldn't get enough of it
The descent is down broad grassy slopes initially in the direction of the now completely clear Ben Nevis. We kept to the right of steeper ground and headed down towards the head of Gleann Allt Dubh to reconnect with our ascent path on the east side of the burn.
Start of descent SSE in direction of the Ben
That lovely U shape
Lower down we picked up an ATV track which zig zagged its way downhill, making walking easier, until we reached the Allt Dubh which we crossed to reach the stalkers path that led us back to the start of the hydro track.
Dam and start of hydro track
Trees hugging the shelter of the river bed
The hydro track gave an easy descent to the road from where it was only 500m back to the car. Then a quick debooting and we were off along the dark mile. For the next 20 minutes I concentrated on driving while Ian concentrated on polishing off anything he could find that was edible in his rucksack. For some reason it felt slower getting back to the A82 than it had felt in the morning, but that was a small price to pay for the day we'd had of perfect weather in beautiful surroundings and not even a midge to bother us.