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We knew there were toilets at the large public car park at Crathie and assumed if we got there around 9.00 they would be open. Wrong, they were closed. This was disappointing and if we'd known we'd have stopped en route. So al fresco it would have to be then and no offence intended to those on whose land we would be walking! We crossed the bridge over the Dee and passed the gates to Balmoral Castle, swinging left past the golf course and right at the sign for the Royal Lochnagar Distillery.
River Dee
We turned left at Easter Balmoral and walked uphill past cottages to a security checkpoint, unmanned on the day we were there.
Checkpoint ahead
A sign on the gate asked for dogs to be kept under close control and not be allowed to wander off the track. This was to avoid disturbing ground nesting birds and grouse chicks in particular. So for a lot of the time I kept Keira on the lead.
Closely packed trees
Bell heather
As we emerged from the forest a wonderful view opened up towards Lochnagar in the south and Ben Avon in the north west, stirring memories of climbing Lochnagar on two occasions during Dundee days and more recently on Ben Avon with Moira.
View south from the forest
Zoomed to Lochnagar
NW to tors of Ben Avon
Keira off lead but staying on track
It was warm so I was carrying extra water for myself and dog, plus a bottle of frozen water in rucksack to keep contents (and me) cool. I find this works pretty well and you end up with an extra source of liquid if you need it. I wasn't overly concerned about the dog in the heat as there was a cooling breeze with us all day. We had decided not to include the optional loop to Gelder Shiel, but sat down on conveniently placed rocks by the fork, where we had something to eat.
Right fork to Gelder Shiel, ahead in clump of trees
Lochnagar
Zoomed to the cliffs
Fly catcher
Ling heather was not yet in flower but there was a blaze of colour from bell heather round where we were sitting.
Bell heather is rated in the top 5 for nectar production - so a good spot for bees
Conachcraig ahead
Conachcraig is a long sprawl of a hill with three tops, the summit being the most southerly one. We continued on the vehicle track for the full length of it before turning off to the left to climb to the summit. The point where the path leaves the track is opposite where the path up Lochnagar heads south and was the same spot I had years earlier met some of the Balmoral household with two very obedient black labradors, and hoped Jack and Tess wouldn't let me down in the obedience department! I don't think they did, but it was a potentially humbling moment.
After a fair distance of feet pounding the hard track it was good to start climbing on a properly uneven hill path!
Climbing at last with the path up Lochnagar visible to the south
Lochnagar from Conachcraig
Conachcraig summit 865m
Keira's summit pose
Tors of Conachcraig
An attractive rocky summit
East to Mount Keen
North to Morven
Heading for middle summit
Top of Caisteal na Caillich and it was windy
Leaving the rocky top of Caisteal na Caillich we made a slight error in our direction of descent. I think seeing the track below lured us into descending too early towards the west when it would have been better taking a more northerly line. In our defence we were following a path which then fizzled out.
Our track down below
Start of descent
To start with it was fine but it soon became steeper as we threaded our way between rocks in knee high heather on lumpy ground with hidden holes. You get the picture. The kind of terrain that needs concentration to avoid a twisted ankle and more difficult when holding a dog on the lead. So I let Keira off to let me use my poles.
As we neared the track a vehicle with estate workers happened along and seeing a loose dog they stopped and very politely asked if we could keep the dog on the lead at all times. This was beyond what the sign on the gate had asked but I said fair enough, I knew she should be on the lead when off the track, but it was awkward coming down that hill on uneven ground in knee high heather with a dog on lead - at which one of the young chaps said he'd have cra**ed himself coming down that hill!
So all was fine, I put Keira on lead and kept her on for the rest of the walk, noted by the chaps each time they passed. They were making drainage channels on the track so we overtook them several times, before they would drive past us to the next spot needing attention. They commented it wasn't the best day for it as the wind was blowing dust into their faces as they worked. But it had the benefit of keeping blood sucking nasties away, which we were delighted not to meet all day.
It was altogether a delightful walk. I'd wondered about including Gelder Shiel on the return, to have a look at the bothy and give Keira a swim in the river. But the start of the path was rough and the track was level walking, which made it an easy decision!
Estate house
We figured that being late afternoon the public toilets at the Crathie car park would still be open, which apart from other considerations would be good for washing dust off sweaty face and hands. But no, those toilets were closed. Admittedly most of the folk from the many parked cars would have gone into the castle and could use the facilities there. But what about hill walkers who also pay to park there?
Balmoral Castle (taken on a previous visit)
Nothing daunted we stopped in Tomintoul for food (and facilities!) in a dog friendly hotel on the square, an excellent break on the long drive home.