Southerly Squelching: White Coomb and Loch Skeen

[WeeHills]

Late January and the days are slowly but perceptibly increasing in length so after six weeks or so hibernation I figure it is time to bestir myself. I'm a bit of home-bod in winter, in part because snow doesn't fill me with confidence (not really an issue so far this year) but mostly because I prefer not to drive in the dark, which rather limits the selection of higher hills that can be fit into the available daylight. This has me turning my attentions southwards. More daylight, and swapping the questionable pleasures of the A82 for the sheer, unadulterated joy that is the M74. Seems like a plan.

The forecast suggests cloud levels might, just about, be above the tops round Moffat, with low chances of rain and winds at a manageable speed so a pootle around Loch Skeen and up to White Coomb is the order of the day. After a leisurely run down the motorway and wiggling along the windy road to the car park I arrive at 9 to find the parking meter not working. Oh well, ain't nobody paying today I guess. It's quite busy too, with a couple of groups headed up. I let them move off and grab a quick coffee before following in their wake.

Once started the Grey Mare's Tail waterfall quickly comes into view, looking splendid. The ascent up the well maintained stone staircase is easy and progress quick. Soon the path flattens out as it follows the burn, dotted with more waterfalls, sheltered from any wind, this is exceedingly pleasant walking. The clouds are moving pretty fast overhead however, which could be a good thing in that they may shift from the tops before I get there, but also means it is going to be blustery higher up. Hey ho, I'll worry about that when I get to it, right now I'm just enjoying the scenery and studiously ignoring the rather dubious looking burn crossing to come on the way down.

Grey Mare's Tail

Shortly I find myself rounding a bend in the track and Loch Skeen appearing before me. This is an exceedingly fine spot, no wonder I've passed several campers headed down. Right now Lochcraig Head is just below the cloud level, though the higher Corbett remains shrouded in clag. It is, however, Mid Craig the draws the eye, plunging steeply into the loch. It is tempting to linger here but the hard work of the day has yet to come and it is quite busy so I don't stop long.

Lochcraig Head

White Coomb is over there somewhere

Mid Craig looking fine across the loch

As soon as the path begins to deteriorate I make my way across the heather to the fence line. It is short and easily negotiated and once the fence is reached an obvious track appears making for straightforward progress all bar a couple of bogs to find a route across. It's been pretty wet lately but I manage to make it to higher ground with dry feet. As height is slowly gained the wind begins to catch me however and at times I feel like I'm going one step forward, two steps sideways. After a time the slope steepens heralding the start of the steady pull up to Lochcraig Head which has now disappeared into the clouds. I decide to pause here and hunker down behind the dry stane dyke for a coffee before tackling it.

Hunkered down looking back on Loch Skeen

Caffeine levels restored I plod upwards. The ground is easy, if soggy, but the wind is fairly strong, and as the fence line swings left is right in my face making for hard work. Plus by now I'm entering the clag so there is nothing for it but putting one foot in front of the other and hoping conditions improve. Enjoyable this is not but eventually I reach flatter ground, nip very briefly to the true summit, then make a bee line for the larger 'not summit' cairn that offers shelter from the southwesterly. On a clear day the views from here would be lovely. Right now there's nought to see but cloud. At least I'm briefly out of the wind so I grab a quick bite to eat, not so much because I'm hungry but because it's now five hours since I got up and I figure I ought to. I don't hang around for long before heading onwards.

Not the summit

Dropping off Lochcraig Head the wind eases, the cloud once more above me and the going pleasantly squishy. It is much more conducive to lingering in the shelter of the bealach so I take a longer break for a leisurely coffee and admire the fine peat hags before heading up the other side. I assume the wind and cloud will return so it is a nice surprise to find the clag has lifted somewhat and the gusts are less intense. Now there are pleasing views back down over the loch and hints of hills to be seen to the north. Once up on flatter ground the going is easy, nicely squelchy underfoot, but if the cloud were in this would be fairly monotonous walking, the immediate surroundings being pretty featureless.

Pausing at the bealach

Views back to Loch Skeen emerge as the cloud lifts, Mid Craig to the right

As it is there are good views eastwards over the Southern Uplands under dramatic skies with shafts of sunshine now striking Lochcraig Head. White Coomb remains in the cloud, but this section is making up for clagged in tops and one can't really expect too much in a mild January so I'm not complaining.

Dramatic skies to the east

Back the way I came, Lochcraig Head now cloud free

Onwards to White Coomb, still hiding away

Ambling along the fence line it isn't long before I find myself heading up the last wee slope to the top and joy of joys the clouds have parted for me. Southerly hills come into view, though it remains too dreich a day for Solway Firth spotting. Still much better than it was looking about 5 minutes ago. I cut away from the fence and over to the summit cairn. It is a rather pleasing one, set in an island of mossy green among the golden brown moor. It is still a bit blowy though so after a few minutes admiring the view I head down slightly before stopping for a final cuppa.

Southerly views open up

White Coomb summit, not in the clag!

Coffee stop views east

And southeast

Now comes the descent. It is nicely straightforward, though once more squelchy at times. The only potentially tricky section down Rough Craig's has been rendered easy by the addition of stairs. It is good walking with nice views to the south and back to Loch Skeen. I really like this loch, it is just pleasing from every angle. Despite the squelchy underfoot conditions the descent presents no difficulties. There is just the one, minor obstacle left.

Descending, views to the south

Back to the loch on the descent

I am fast approaching the point path meets Tail Burn. The crossing point looked fairly sketchy from the other side on the way up and doesn't look any better from this side heading down. Worse, there a people gathered on the other side, ready to help/laugh at me should I fall in. I contemplate heading upstream where there are easier fords but decide I can't be bothered. If I get wet I get wet, it isn't far back to the car and dry clothes and I'll never have to face these random strangers again. I pick my spot, just need to step on this stone, that stone, the other stone and I'm over.

This stone is fine, that stone no problem. The other stone wobbles, one foot slides, balance goes, both feet end up in the burn. Nobody but me seems to notice, and it least I didn't sit on my backside in the water so I pretend like it never happened and squelch off back down the path to the car, enjoying the succession of waterfalls as I go.

One of the many smaller falls on the Tail Burn

I make it back by 2 and after a quick change of footwear set off back to the M74 and the swift drive that sees me home before darkness descends. An altogether pleasant day out for a rather dreich January.