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Reports I'd read about Brown Cow Hill didn't leave me with a strong urge to drive over there and climb it. I guess it didn't sound exciting enough to justify the journey. A few times I'd mentioned it when the weather was better in the east, but each of these times another option had won. Then in October 2021 Brown Cow Hill finally got her day. Joy was up for a hill walk and didn't mind where and Ian had started his post Munro round of the Corbetts so was very happy with this one.
We drove south over the Lecht and parked in the car park for Corgarff Castle. We walked up the track towards the castle and through a gate into the field on the right, which led us round the back of the castle.
Up close and personal with Corgarff Castle
Many times passing through to Ballater or Braemar my eyes have been drawn to the castle standing proud in the rolling Aberdeenshire landscape. It is thought to have been built in 1550 before being converted into barracks for government troops in 1748. Its last military use was to control the smuggling of illicit whisky between 1827 and 1831. Today the site is maintained by Historic Scotland, complete with its 18th century star-shaped fortification, and is open to the public.
A wee lick of paint to freshen up perhaps?
Going through the gate opposite the back wall we followed a path down to join the track from Cockbridge Farm. We found it a fine track giving easy walking with just the occasional puddle. I'll be honest, I wasn't expecting such an easy start.
On track from Cockbridge Farm heading for plantation
View back
Passing the plantation and Joy in her element
After the plantation the gradient steepened as it climbed to the bealach between Carn Oighreag and the main bulk of Brown Cow Hill, where the track swung sharply to the right. This is the point to leave the hard track to follow a faint ATV track over boggy ground towards the 823m east top.
Heading for east top
Looking back
No surprise here - peat hags
The wind was cold and strong and higher up we were in its full blast.
East top summit where Joy had a sit down but Ian seemed to be frozen rigid
It was too cold to hang about so we kept going on the faint path across the empty reaches towards the true summit of Brown Cow Hill.
Path to summit
The granite tors of Ben Avon were coming into clearer view to the south west, perhaps looking closer than they actually were.
Sprinkling of snow on Ben Avon
Brown Cow Hill summit (829m)
Joy relaxing on Brown Cow Hill
Wind strong enough to take off
Team girls at the summit
This was decision time. Ian would continue over the west top and Meikle Geal Charn. Joy and I were undecided but the predicted soggy bealach along with the wind had us opting for the shorter return, with lunch lower down where we could find some shelter. So Ian set off at a sprint and before I had time to react Keira was off with Ian and in the strong wind not hearing me. I blew the whistle but the sound didn't carry. I started running after them but after a few minutes knew that wasn't going to work with Ian being too fast for me. Oh well, he'd find himself an unexpected companion for the rest of the circuit and hopefully not come across any brown cows to be spooked by black dog whose lead he didn't have.
I returned to the summit where Joy was waiting. Seconds later Keira noticed her main person wasn't there and turned to come barreling back to me like a small black rocket over the tundra. It was good to have her back, tail wagging furiously with ears back in that apologetic looking way they do. Equilibrium restored we set off on our descent, but this time bypassing the east top and taking a slightly different line to hopefully avoid the peat hags, which we did.
Keira leading the way
We found a grassy spot out of the blast of the wind, to tuck into our sandwiches. I put Keira on lead as there were hares about which she would have felt obliged to chase.
Look of canine resignation and the top of Morven on far right
We skirted round to the east of the peat hags then followed a line to reach the bend in the hard track where I could see a huddle of sheep. This meant as we got closer I put Keira back on the lead. She has never chased sheep and her recall is good but I have a fear of things suddenly going wrong and my dog being shot by a farmer who just happens to be there with his gun. A bit unlikely but my friend's son's dog was randomly shot while he was out running with her and she hadn't even chased any sheep. He carried her body home on his shoulders - an image that haunts me still, though it happened many years ago.
Passing the plantation again
Castle in sight
Path we should have taken on left, track we followed on right
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As we neared the path off the track to the castle we were so busy talking we walked straight past it. When we noticed what we'd done we figured we had a bit of time on our side as Ian was doing a longer route so we'd stay on the track towards Cockbridge Farm. It continued along the side of the burn until it reached a ford where it crossed over. The water was too deep for a boots on crossing. We could have taken them off and paddled across but we couldn't be bothered doing that so kept going on a faint path on the west side of the burn to see if there was somewhere we could get across with boots on. The burn narrowed enough that we could possibly have jumped it but if we missed we'd have got a soaking as it was deep at that point. Then I spotted a fence across the burn with a strip of wood for placing feet (actually I think the wood was for holding a stoat trap which we carefully stepped over) and by holding on to the fence we made a safe crossing.
Then with dog on lead we followed the track through the deserted farmyard, ready to apologise if anyone appeared. But there wasn't a soul about. We reached the road and turned left with a short walk back to the minor road leading to Corgarff Castle.
A photo from the start of a climb up Carn Ealasaid in May 2015 shows the car park, the castle and Cockbridge Farm from which our detour is obvious.
As we neared the car we wondered if Ian was already there and said we wouldn't be surprised if he was, despite the fact he'd have done 18km to our 13km. Sure enough he was standing there beside the car but insisted he'd just arrived so it was perfect timing. He'd followed the route as WH describes it, ending up on the minor road back to Corgarff Castle.
Ian's return route along the glen of the River Don
I felt I owed an apology to Brown Cow Hill for thinking she'd be a dull hill of pathless slog and peat hags, which really isn't a fair description. It's an area of wide open spaces, solitude, views of Ben Avon and the option of a different return if you want it. A great choice for a shorter autumn day and the possibility of stopping at Bridge of Brown tearoom on the way home.
