Francis' first - Beinn Ghlas - but Sideways!

[scribe64]

After all our 'build-up' outings last year, we'd been champing at the bit to get back into the hills this spring and finally let Francis tick off his first Munro. This gloriously sunny weekend presented our chance. So, bags packed, flask filled, sandwiches wrapped, up early and off we went.

We'd originally had our sights set on Schiehallion but I was wary of the parking situation and a possibly icy boulder field, so instead we headed for the Ben Lawers car park, hopeful that at least one of the surrounding Munros would be suitable and safe. Arriving, it was immediately obvious that Meall nan Tarmachan was still very snowy but Beinn Ghlas looked pretty clear and maybe Ben Lawers would be too. So we saddled up, crossed the road and headed that way - along with several other groups and families with the same idea!

Setting off in the sunshine

The numbers of people encouraged me in an idea I'd had since studying the route on the map. I'd felt that rather than dealing with the lumpiness and false summits of tackling Beinn Ghlas by the front door - the SW ridge - Francis might cope better with the steady gradient offered by going 'round the back' - ascending by the usual Ben Lawers descent route. I thought this would be less busy too. I was half right. It was certainly less busy - but for reasons I'd not anticipated!

Meall Corranaich and Beinn Ghlas dead ahead

The approach walk through the nature reserve was a perfect way to warm up, find your pace and sort your layers out. Blue skies. Sunshine. Birdsong. A gurgling stream. What a day to be out.

Up through the nature reserve.

As Beinn Ghlas drew nearer we could pick out the paths ahead. One zig-zagging steeply up the slope. The other angling round to the left and up the glen along the flank of the mountain. Francis gave his thumbs up to the idea of taking the latter.

A really enjoyable path.

The two paths separate at a cluster of large boulders. It was when we stopped there to fetch a bit of chocolate from my pack that I made a truly, terrible discovery - I realised I'd left the sandwiches on the back seat of the car! My companion was decidedly unimpressed with this news.

Disaster! "You've left the sandwiches where?!"

So we left the main path and headed off up the road-less-travelled where I spent the the next few hundred metres of ascent offering reassurances that we still had plenty of snack supplies to keep us going.

Not happy. But nice snowy views of, I think, Ben Vorlich and Ben More behind.

Despite the slightly strained atmosphere, I really enjoyed this section of path. The going was good underfoot, the rate of ascent was satisfying without being too strenuous, and the views began to open up behind us...

Meall Nan Tarmachan looking splendid behind us.

...but I was conscious that we hadn't yet met anyone coming past in the opposite direction. Which was a worry.

The anti-clockwise, 'backwards' route.

Finally, we did run into a small group heading back down the glen. My heart sank when they told us they'd had the same idea as I'd had but that they'd turned back when the path became too dangerous because of snow and ice. Not wanting to give up hope yet, Francis and I decided to push on to the top of the glen and then assess the situation from there.

Nearly at the head of the glen.

Before long we were nearing the beallach between Meall Corranaich and Beinn Ghlas. This sits at about 850m. The path we were hoping to follow curls round to the right and then angles up to the beallach between Beinn Ghlas and Ben Lawers. But before that curl to the right we encountered our first serious patch of snow.

We reach the beallach... and the snow.

Ben Lawers had also now emerged from behind Beinn Ghlas and we could see that the summit and the slopes below were looking positively alpine. Time to have a think and consider our options. So out came the flask and the hot chocolate!

Admiring Ben Lawers - but not for us today, I'm afraid.

At this point I want to celebrate in general the camaradrie and generosity of the kind folk you tend meet in the hills. In this case, I want to particularly thank two gentlemen who appeared as if by magic in our hour of need!

First was a chap with a little dog who came round the corner having just descended from Ben Lawers. He was happy to fill us in on conditions ahead and strongly advised that our original intended route was risky without ice axe and crampons - both of which he'd had to employ on his descent. He concluded that if we were determined to bag a Munro our options were probably the two either side of us - Beinn Ghlas or Meall Corranaich. We thanked him and watched as he - and his dog - began expertly scooting up the rocky slopes of the latter.

Second, was the fellow who came to us down the same slopes and stopped to chat. We explained our predicament and he was able to give us great info about the route he'd just come down on Meall Corranaich and the route he'd picked out looking across to Beinn Ghlas. Just as we were wavering a bit he inspired us to keep going. Again we watched as he headed off, making short work of Beinn Ghlas.

Option 1. The SE ridge of Meall Corranaich.

We considered Meall Corranaich. It looked like it might take a couple of bits of scrambling then an ascent along the snowline on the ridge.

Option 2. The NW ridge of Beinn Ghlas.

Turning to Beinn Ghlas. I reckoned we could weave between the patches of snow and maybe avoid any scrambling at all. It also seemed to me that if we were thwarted at any point it would be relatively simple to descend back toward the path back down the glen. Francis agreed. And we could see people on the summit. He wanted to give it a go. Decision made. We'd attempt Beinn Ghlas - but sideways!

Option 2 it is. Crossing the beallach to begin ascending Beinn Ghlas.

So we packed away the flask and flapjacks and headed across to the start of the climb. There was the hint of a path for a few metres but it soon faded away so we began carefully zig-zagging and picking our own route upwards.

Soft, level snow patch on the lower slopes.

The lower slopes were pretty straightforward but things became rockier and a bit trickier as we got higher up. The only real obstacle was an icy patch of snow just below a rocky outcrop at about 1030m. We passed this with a short scrambled traverse of the outcrop - edging southwards for a bit before continuing on up to meet the well trodden 'front door' route just below the summit.

Finding a route on the steep upper slope.

And so, finally, one more quick scramble and Francis was triumphant - and a bit windswept - on top of his first Munro!

Finally! A windswept summit and Francis' first Munro.

We couldn't really have asked for a better view from the top. It definitely made all that hard work worth it.

Top of the world!

We could also see even more clearly that Ben Lawers was beyond us for now.

The route across and up to Ben Lawers summit. One for another day.

All that was left was to find our way down. Surprisingly tricky when we hadn't come up that way!

Now we had to find our way down.

Thankfully, we were able to follow a couple just ahead of us and the path soon became clear - though we did have to carefully bypass one or two bits of ice and snow.

Lots of stops to enjoy the views over Loch Tay.

There was one soft snow patch which we couldn't easily bypass so had to gingerly traverse - sinking thigh-deep at one point, much to Francis' amusement.

Safely over the last tricky patch of snow on the descent. Others on the way up!

After that, the descent was pretty relaxed and offered a better chance to take in the amazing views.

All those hills to look forward to!

Loch Tay sparkling in the sun was particularly stunning.

"I can see our sandwiches from here."

Though it is a long way down and my knees were beginning to feel it!

Francis turns to see what that noise is. It's my old knees creaking.

Eventually, the last set of zig-zags brought us back down to the Nature Reserve.

He's racing ahead. But I've got the car keys!

And then the walk back to the car - with a swagger of satisfaction.

First one done. Two hundred and eighty one to go. Now, where are those sandwiches...

And, yes, the sandwiches were delicious!