Three in a row in Glen Dessary

[DaveSan]

Three in a row in Glen Dessary.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

This was a route I had been thinking about doing for a number of years and now seemed the right time to tackle it. The settled period of high pressure was continuing and more importantly, the strong gusty SE winds that I had endured on the previous 3 days walks had all but disappeared.
I set off from Glen Nevis campsite at 6:30am, after scraping ice off the windscreen and was soon trundling along the helter-skelter of a road alongside Loch Arkaig in the early morning sunshine. About halfway along my car unexpectedly threw up a 'check tyre pressures' warning. Thinking the worst and that I had a puncture I stopped and got out to inspect. All looked ok, so I then debated whether to continue and believe the pressures were just on the low side, or to drive back to Fort William to get them checked over (which would have put the kibosh on doing these three hills today). Mulling things over for a bit I decided to carry on and if I got another warning I would turn round and head back. The next 20 minutes I was on tenterhooks but reached the car park (in which there were, not surprisingly, already 4 or 5 cars) with no further incidents and tyres all seemed to be ok so assumed the pressures were just on the low side.
At 7:50am I locked the car, shouldered my pack and set off back up the road for 5 minutes then headed in a vaguely NNE direction up grassy slopes until I was at about the 450m contour and on the lower part of the SW ridge of Sgurr Mhurlagain. At this point I was getting a mobile signal for the first time, so made a mental note that if the worst came to the worst, I could climb up to about this level and call Green Flag to come and change the wheel if I got back to the car to find a tyre had indeed got a (slow) puncture! Trying to put aside all this tyre nonsense, I carried on up the broad ridge, crossing a few shallow snowfields and eventually reached the summit ridge and the cairn, perched high above a steep drop to the north, at 9:30am. The views all round were magnificent, with very little snow left on most peaks, and most of that on north-facing slopes. There was only a faint whisper of a wind and I sat in wonder, enjoying a hot drink and a quick bite.

Summit of Sgurr Mhurlagain looking west - a lot of snow on its northerly aspects.

View to the SW with Loch Arkaig - from left to right: Gulvain, Streap, Sgurr Thuilm, Sgurr nan Coireachan

View down to Glen Kingie from summit of Sgurr Mhurlagain

I began heading back and was soon making rapid progress down the narrowing SW ridge until I was at about the 600m level then headed more or less due east down to the broad bealach. The large bulk of Fraoch Bheinn now loomed directly ahead - I had seen mention of climbing up its east ridge but head on that looked almost vertical! Just as I was reaching the far side of the bealach, and had avoided most of the boggy ground, my foot slipped on a grassy lump and one leg went in up to the hip in thick oozing watery mud - I managed to get out easily but I now had a very wet right leg.
I began heading towards the SE ridge of Fraoch Bheinn but then realised the angle of the east ridge had been somewhat deceptive from further away and was in fact quite reasonable, albeit still steep. I slogged up the grassy slopes, skirting around a few craggy sections and at 11:15am I popped out directly onto the summit plateau with the summit cairn just yards away.

Looking across to my third hill, Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh with the Garbh Chiochs behind and the double-peaked Bidean a'Chabair far left

The view south from Fraoch Bheinn

Two down, one to go - but not even halfway in terms of time or distance. After a short rest and a drink and some food, I set off down the SW ridge following a good path until about the 640m contour when I began to turn to the west and headed down moderately steep grassy slopes to the bealach at 320m before beginning the long grind up the ridge of Druim a' Chuirn. The gradient was comfortable with a few steeper sections until the broad plateau where the route trended west before dropping down to a narrow saddle. There were now good views of the steep craggy east face of Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh.

View from Druim a' Chuirn to Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh

As I worked my way round on a good path, I reached the large rock pinnacle off to the left of the path. Even though it looked reasonably easy to climb, I wasn't tempted, especially as I was on my own.

The large rock pinnacle, bypassed easily on the right

Just 20 minutes later, at 1:35pm, I reached the tiny cairn of Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh, perched on a small outcrop. The sun was still shining and there was barely a breath of wind as I sat and contemplated the views once more.

Summit cairn looking north to the ascent route up Druim a' Chuirn

Looking towards continuation of ridge with Glendessary Lodge just about visible in the distance

From the summit I continued along the ridge with a few ups and downs until just before the final prominence, where I veered around to the right and weaved my way down grassy rakes until clear of the crags. The descent was then trouble free although not the sort of terrain to rush down. At long last, I reached the lodge where a path took me round to the right by a fence and onto the track running through the glen. Two miles later at 3:20pm (7.5 hours from the start) I reached the car park - and with great relief, I saw that my tyres looked ok - so not a puncture - phewee!
I drove very carefully back along the tortuous road (although as I've now done it 5 times over the years, I'm getting used to it!) and had my tyres checked at the first garage I passed in Fort William - indeed, all 4 were under recommended pressure!

[jackfrost]

I did this exact route earlier this week after reading your report. I think the weather was less kind to me, it was clagged in rain for Fraoch Bheinn, but cleared up on the 3rd. I really enjoyed the typically rugged route.

[Graeme D]

I too got the tyre pressure warning on my first time driving in on this road on my way into A'Chuil a few years back, but it was accompanied in quick order by the tell tale thumping sound of a flat. It was a cold, dark, rainy November evening and I had to get the dog crate and dog out of the boot in order to access the spare wheel, jack e.t.c. to carry out the change. Let's just say I was ready for a beer when I eventually reached A'Chuil!