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For years, Chris and I used to whizz past these hills, thinking they looked too close to the A9 to offer a feeling of being away from it all and not being that attractive. How wrong we were! The views over Loch Ericht to Ben Alder are outstanding. The nice high start of around 400m is quite attractive too
DSC_0067.jpg by
scotlandmac, on Flickr
This last minute quick jaunt north from our home in Glasgow was largely inspired by an announcement on April 1st by the RSPB that they had a live camera on a Sea Eagle's nest at their Loch Garten reserve. I was astonished at this news, as I never thought they had Sea Eagles in Cairngorm
The name tends to place these magnificent birds at the coast, rather than being as far inland as you can get in Scotland. We have watched Sea/White Tailed Eagles often on the west coast and the islands. But Cairngorm
It seemed unbelievable that they were there and nesting too.
Got an Airbnb booked at short notice in Kingussie and with a good forecast we thought we'd make a couple of days of it and re-visit this straightforward trio, given also that they were slap bang on our route north.
It was only as we set off from Balnasporran car park making for the first Munro, Geal Charn that I thought – oh heck,was the Sea Eagle announcement an April Fool??
Oh well, who cared...it was a gorgeous day and we had a day on the hills ahead. Still , it niggled a bit...
But there was no way of checking now.
Looking ahead to A Mharconich (left) and Geal Charn (right)...
DSC_0979.jpg by
scotlandmac, on Flickr
As we strode out along the path in the crisp Highland air on a very sunny if cold morning, A 'Mharconich was looking impressive with its big scalloped corrie thick with snow and a sizable cornice. Whatever the situation with sea eagles or phantom ones it was so good to have a much loved round ahead, on benign hills which shouldn’t cause much of a problem given the recent fall of new snow. We’d got caught out a couple of weeks back on the Cairngorm plateau when micro spikes literally didn’t cut much ice.
The snow had been solid and ice was everywhere; even going down the benign Fiacaill a Choire Chais ridge had taken a bit of care; I hadn’t enjoyed that much at all, skittering on icy slopes, poorly equipped. Of course it wasn’t helped by my spikes being worn and blunt, something I hadn’t even thought to check. I thought afterwards that perhaps we’d just not been used to walking in those conditions but funnily enough, there were several announcements in the news about snow conditions being unforgiving so maybe others had got caught out too.
Very different conditions just a few weeks before on Cairngorm...
Heading off the summit by
scotlandmac, on Flickr
Although this was (I think) our 4th time on this trio of hills, we had never yet had a view from Beinn Udlamain. The summit had always been in clag, defying the forecast. We’d got used to hanging about, getting colder by the minute, hoping it would clear. I’d read about how good the views were from this, the furthest outlier, over to Ben Alder and down Loch Ericht and had high hopes for today as I’m always drawn to mountains which are set off by a loch. Fingers crossed it would behave this time and do what the forecast suggested it should – i.e. remain clear!
It was 10.45am by the time we set off, the car park at Balnasporran Cottage busy and everyone well ahead of us. But neither of us can ever pass by Gloagburn Farm Shop/Café just south of Perth so a good 40 mins had been spent enjoying a bacon roll and one of their excellent warm scones for me.( Chris had decided there was no point in cutting back when a hill day lay ahead so his promised diet was once more on the back burner.
)
DSC_0984.jpg by
scotlandmac, on Flickr
The path to Geal Charn starts off well, large, stony and dry. Then we took the second exit track on the right, which climbed a bit more steeply on rubble before becoming a moorland path. Our footsteps disturbed numerous Red Grouse, which rose up from the heather with their krek krek krek calls, something I always love to hear.
The sunny March meant this was the driest I’ve ever found this hill as it can be a real bog fest until the first rise is crested; then it dries out a lot. But it was a very pleasant ascent with increasingly good views over to the west and the Monadliath. Behind us and away to the north, the big Cairngorm giants still looked socked in with low cloud. On the upper slopes of Geal Charn (which translates as The White Cairn) the ground becomes very nice to walk on – almost sub Arctic tundra, like its big brothers further north.
Nice views opened up to A Mharconich and a first glimpse of Loch Ericht...
Loch Ericht just appearing by
Anne C, on Flickr
A Mharconich by
Anne C, on Flickr
A young couple passed us (they usually do these days
) and we said hello. I was amazed at their trainers and the girl had on what looked like a mid length gabardine coat! The ice axe on my rucksack suddenly seemed like overkill (as it turned out, it was but I always feel I should have it anyway.)
There are a couple of shallow false tops on Geal Charn but 90 mins after setting off, the summit cairn appeared and the view opened up spectacularly. Loch Ericht stretched out for miles below us and Ben Alder and Carn Dearg looked fantastic with their corries still holding plenty of snow. It was a view to savour so we stopped for half an hour below the summit out of an occasionally chilly wind and had the first of the chicken sandwiches (it was a day of eating I now realise.) Even if we turned back here, this would have been worth it. It was glorious.
Looking down Loch Ericht towards Bridge of Orchy area by
Anne C, on Flickr
View from Geal Charn to Ben Alder (left) and Carn Dearg to the right by
Anne C, on Flickr
Equally good, ahead of us, Beinn Udlamain was clear too. Some snow on its slopes but what we’d walked on so far had been nice and crunchy with no ice; plus there were plenty options to detour a bit and avoid snow altogether.The slopes are all pretty gentle anyway with plenty of run off before any drops etc.
Time to head onwards and downwards off Geal Charn’s stony summit...
Heading towards B.Udlamain by
Anne C, on Flickr
It was a simple descent on big wide slopes and always, that lovely view of the loch lay ahead.
A Mountain Hare skipped across our route, a lovely sight...Bit blurred in the photo.
Mountain Hare by
Anne C, on Flickr
Down at the col, the bit of the day I always seem to find a real slog is the 240m or so up to the ridge which connects A’ Mharconich and Beinn Udlamain. It actually took less than 30 mins but it felt longer! There was some snow but it was easily avoided to give the best going underfoot.
Udlamain coming up part way up the slope by
Anne C, on Flickr
Beinn Udlamain in middle by
Anne C, on Flickr
This time we ignored the double ATV track which goes straight up the fall line and contoured a bit more to the right, which felt easier. The former track is best if A’ Mharconich is the target but the latter route was better for where we were going next – Udlamain. Slightly less height to climb though really there isn’t much in it. But every metre saved on ascent these days, we seem to treasure.
Ben Alder (left ) and another Geal Charn by
Anne C, on Flickr
The hills were now quite busy with groups coming from A Mharconich and some folks already descending from Udlamain. The young couple seemed to have disappeared and had possibly headed back down the big ATV /Landrover track to Balnasporran. I really wanted to avoid this track like the plague later in the day as it seems to go on forever and is a bit dull as the views are limited. But the descent off A Mharconich needs a bit if care if under snow; hopefully it would be crunchy and not icy. If I didn’t fancy it, there was nothing for it but to retrace our steps back to the 240m slope we'd ascended, head down that way and back via the (endless) track.
There was a good view now of Sgairneach Mor across the glen - one that can be added on to the round to make it 4 Munros...
Sgairneach Mor by
Anne C, on Flickr
A lot more began to come into view...Ben Lawers...
Towards Ben Lawers (highest in snow) by
Anne C, on Flickr
Heading for Udlamain by
Anne C, on Flickr
Cairngorms still with a lot of snow and clear now...
Southern Cairngorm clear by
Anne C, on Flickr
There was a lot more snow on Udlamain’s north slopes but it was sugary and good to walk on and spikes weren’t needed. We cut off the corner a bit and made for the summit cairn of the plateau where old metal fence poles have been fashioned into what looks like a modern art sculpture!
Now I understood what we'd missed previously when the normally socked in view of Ben Alder hit us with full force - it was magnificent! It looked close enough to touch. Huge, empty country with a hidden Loch Ossian tucked in there somewhere too. A fantastic area.
Ben Alder by
Anne C, on Flickr
Geal Charn by
Anne C, on Flickr
A clear Ben Nevis was just visible through the gap of the Coire Dubh between Alder and another Geal Charn. At the end of Loch Ericht, lay Rannoch Moor and Loch Laidon with the pyramid of Buachaille Etive Mor etched against the sky. The Black Mount was crystal clear as were the bulky outlines of the Bridge of Orchy hills.
Black Mount beyond Loch Laidon and Rannoch Moor by
Anne C, on Flickr
Bridge of Orchy and Ben Lui middle left by
Anne C, on Flickr
Ben Alder, Loch Ericht and Glencoe from Udlamain by
Anne C, on Flickr
Further south, Cruachan’s twin peaks were visible and Ben Lui looked its full height, as did Ben More and Stob Binnein.
Ben More and Stob Binnein by
Anne C, on Flickr
Ben Lui and Bridge of Orchy hills by
Anne C, on Flickr
As we looked round what was a 360 degree panorama to Cairngorm and beyond, we realised we were seeing from Ben More to Ben Wyvis, Mount Keen (I think that's what the sharp little pyramid in the far distance was) to Ben Nevis and even the distinctive pointed top of Sgurr na Ciche in Knoydart. Glen Affric ‘s big stuff was visible too. What an astonishing panorama it was.
Ben Wyvis...
Ben Wyvis beyond Inverness by
Anne C, on Flickr
Zoomed to Glencoe...
Buachaille Etive Mor on left by
Anne C, on Flickr
Buachaille Etive Mor zoomed...
Buachaille Etive Mor by
Anne C, on Flickr
Ben Nevis zoomed...
Ben Nevis zoomed by
Anne C, on Flickr
Sgurr na Ciche (I think):
Sgurr na Ciche, Knoydart? by
Anne C, on Flickr
Heading a bit further west off the summit , down the slope a little, opened up the views to the shores of Loch Ericht below, making a beautiful spot for a long lunch break in the sunshine. We spent nearly an hour just sitting drinking it all in. I always feel very lucky that hill walking or just walking has been a been such a part of our lives, given the effect such days have on the spirit and the soul. It’s too difficult to put into words; it feels beyond joy.
Myself by
Anne C, on Flickr
There was some moor burning going on at Corrievarckie Lodge below and a bit of activity with vehicles. Quite a spot down there too; the wealthy always pick the choice locations!
Loch Ericht and Ben Alder by
Anne C, on Flickr
It was so lovely and such a difficult place to leave but leave we eventually had to. Lovely dry walking brought us back to where we'd first met the connecting ridge and ahead lay a virtually flat final 1km out to A ‘ Mharconich. I was looking out for Ptarmigan as we’d seen them here before, but not today.
Heading for A Mharconich by
Anne C, on Flickr
The descent track I hoped to avoid...
The track visible now by
Anne C, on Flickr
The Black Mount....
Stob a Choire Odhar and Stob Ghabhar.Albannaich behind (pointed summit.) by
Anne C, on Flickr
A ‘Mharconich doesn’t give the best views of the trio though the big whale backed pair across the A9 – A Bhuidheanach Bheag and Carn na Caim - had a mini Cairngorm, quite ancient quality about them somehow, their gullies streaked with snow. Or maybe I was just loving being out on the hills so much, I was seeing everything through rose coloured spectacles somewhat
Southern Cairngorms by
Anne C, on Flickr
Already a lot of snow had melted compared with the morning. It was now (incredibly, where did the time go?) the back of 4pm and it was decision time about heading down the hill's northern slope or not. Nothing for it but to try and thankfully the snow was sugary and forgiving and there was plenty of room away from the steep corrie headwall. I put the micro spikes on anyway as one other thing that has come with age is not trusting my feet the way I used to and being really slow on descent!
Descent from A Mharconich by
Anne C, on Flickr
Last look at Ben Alder et al by
Anne C, on Flickr
We were soon down on the flatter section with good views back to the corrie, plastered with snow.
A Mharconich's snowy corrie by
Anne C, on Flickr
About halfway down, on the gently descending ridge on a good path (which gets very boggy in places but it was not bad today at all) we came across a cluster of scattered feathers; a bird had been killed, possibly by a golden eagle or a peregrine. Certainly a couple of years back (and funnily enough from dreaded Landrover track) we had seen two eagles on the hunt on this section of ridge. A chat next day with the RSPB warden in Loch Garten confirmed they were definitely in the area.
Nearly 7 hours after setting off, we arrived back at Balnasporran (which has a very smart looking B&B these days), the little bit of river crossing very straightforward. Then through the Railway Gate after a quick look that the Sleeper wasn’t going to squash us to bits before the last hundred metres to the car park.
We’d dawdled and had long breaks but it was a perfect day for taking plenty of time to savour the hills. No traffic noise from the A9 either, until halfway down A Mharconich. It's amazing how quickly you get out to lovely, quiet country on these roadside hills.
A grand day out and a quick check online confirmed that the Sea Eagle announcement was perfectly genuine
Next day, we had the thrill of seeing the female up close, sitting on eggs which were due to hatch in a couple of days.
Untitled by
Anne C, on Flickr
Incredibly also - first time ever - I saw a Goshawk as they have a camera on that nest too.
Goshawk too... by
Anne C, on Flickr
We also had a very interesting talk from one of the Rangers about the Caledonian Pine forest and its non-human inhabitants – who knew that Red Squirrels were either right or left handed? And that Scotland now has over 4m deer, 7 times what it can sustain!
And finally, just to keep hunger at bay again after all that excitement
an excellent cafe in Nethy Bridge (Nethy House) with some of the best Carrot Cake I've tasted. We'll be back for lunch next time, great menu.
Great cafe in Nethy Bridge by
Anne C, on Flickr
A fine trio of hills for a not too taxing day out with really stunning views from Beinn Udlamain in particualr.4th time lucky as it turned out and well worth waiting for a day clear of clag.
