A Fistful of Donalds

[The English Alpinist]

The Coomb Craigs of Swatte Fell; 'Nether' and 'Upper' separated by central spine.

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To be more accurate, this is a trio of Donalds, with two Donald 'tops' which sadly for them even lack the privilege of being rated 'New Donalds'. Nevertheless, this takes nothing away from the fine views that were on offer on this grand stroll in late April sunshine. My revised masterplan is to undertake a mission every 6 weeks instead of 4, but to stay for 3 walks instead of 2, which seems to me is far more economical for petrol as well as my motivation. Setting off in the evening after work on the Wednesday, I could make Annandale for the night, do this walk on Thursday, and then travel on to Munro territory for the next two days. I aimed to follow this with Stuc a' Chroin and Ben Vorlich, with a few of the 'lesser' mountains of that region. Good plan, good weather, I was hopeful of making some decent bagging progress.

Starting from Moffat, today's offering was an excellent circular tour with Hart Fell as the highpoint of the range, and as a bonus I hoped to sample a touristy thing or two in the shape of a certain 'Devil's Beef Tub' (which had actually grabbed my attention on my AA atlas), plus a bit of the Annandale Way and even a Roman signal station and road. That was for later, if time and energy permitted, but first came 'Moffat Well'. This thing had some intriguing if dubious history; however, now in 2022, I am afraid to say it literally stinks. I did not linger, with my all-important challenge being to access the high ground through Birnie Rig which is basically a forest on a hill. At one point, I feared I had run out of firebreak, but I arrived at Nether Coomb Craig in good time and fully appreciative of the resplendent airy views that Donalding can bring.

Its curative properties must be called into doubt these days: Moffat Well.

Once upon a time.

I ascend Pirnie Rig through the firebreak, far right.

Forest fun, but I succesfully emerge.

Nether Coomb Craig (a Donald Top only) at 2,376 feet (724m).

Great view of Saddle Yoke (for another day) from Nether Coomb Craig.

Next up was Swatte Fell which, despite being the parent Donald as it were, was something of a featureless flat mass. A tiny pile of stones that could not have got there by natural means had to be the summit, although just about any clump of half-dead heather would do. This is not a complaint, though, for I was having a truly serene stroll (and how often can I say that?). Falcon Craig, the next Top, came with ease and even the ascent to the Corbett-status Hart Fell brought no hardship. Sun bathed the spacious landscape, there was a slight breeze which made things feel quite cool, and the only sounds were the constant chirruping of birds hidden from sight. Reaching Whitehope Heights, third actual Donald of the day, entailed a big plunge and re-ascent but in what seemed no time I had completed my fistful. On the way up this, due to a double line of fences (protecting a baby tree plantation from deer), I found my imagination stretched to a famous war film where Steve McQueen desperately attempts to make Switzerland. Perhaps my day had been too easy!

The non-descript Swatte Fell itself, 2,395 feet (730m).

Falcon Craig (a Donald Top), 2,374 feet (724m), with the Coomb Craigs behind.

Hart Fell, a Donald and a Corbett no less, 2,651 feet (808m).

A deep descent before Whitehope Heights.

Remiscent of..? Lacks Steve McQueen on his motorbike.

A fistful of Donalds is done: Whitehope Heights, 2,090 feet (637m). Hart Fell behind.

In such benign weather and with energy to spare, I felt I had no excuse not to take in a wider arc encompassing Annadale Head. So far I had seen only one walker (on the way down from Hart Fell when I was on the way up), but now I met a veritable platoon of Annandale Way strollers. On reaching the Head, I even had the luxury of a bench (there may be a sad story behind this, as I note it is dedicated to 'Bernie McDougal, a Moffat rambler, 2006-2016'). Here I came upon the splendidly named 'Devil's beef Tub', a deep cul-de-sac of a valley where - an American tourist informed me - they used to drive cattle into and then slaughter. Also, adding to the fun of the place, I was able to spot the remains of a white van at the bottom. This has not been shifted since 2002 [footnote], and I find myself wondering what historians will make of it in 1,000 years time when we are the equivalence of the Viking age to them.

Ahead is Chalk Rig Edge, so-called.

I encounter the Annandale Way (between Chalk Rig Edge and Great Hill).

Behold: the Devil's Beef Tub.

No pressure (Annandale Head). 'Bernie's View' it says on the plaque.

At the bottom of Devil's Beef Tub [see footnote]. It landed on its wheels at the time, apparently.

Devil's Beef Tub monument on the A701 [see footnote].

Speaking of history, I failed to find the Roman signal station, and also abandoned notions of sampling the course of the Roman road as access looked a hassle through a forest. I was now too achy for further challenges, and was happy the day had been a full success in summit terms. The A701 not being the road I had in mind, I cut across a bit of farmland to link up with the picturesque Annandale Way for my home run into Moffat, the last few miles of which were even tarmaced. A day to remember fondly, and positive omens for my bigger fare of the next two days.

This walk is followed by 'Stuc a' Chroin & Ben Vorlich from Beinn Each'
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=112163

Some Annandale loveliness to finish.

More Annandale loveliness.

'her white Volkswagen van landed on its wheels after leaving the road at a spot known as the Devil's Beeftub'
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/1817492.stm

“It is quite incredible that this woman survived this, she would not get away with it a second time."
https://www.dng24.co.uk/story-behind-the-beeftub-van/

'John Hunter was shot at the Devil's Beeftub in August 1685 for attending a church service in the hills above this scenic spot'. https://scotlandstartshere.com/point-of-interest/devils-beeftub/
On 12 August 1685 fleeing covenanter John Hunter attempted to escape pursuing dragoons by running up the steep side of the Beef Tub. He failed, was shot dead on the spot, and is buried in Tweedsmuir kirkyard (churchyard). A monument to Hunter stands on the southwest rim of the Beef Tub.

I was 400 years too late.