Not quite all the Fisherfields....

[simonclee]

Three days in the Fisherfields. Three years in the planning (two years scuppered by Covid). The excitement was palpable! Before we could see the forecast, the plan was to walk in over Slioch, camp by Lochan Fada, do the five Fisherfield Munros, camp back at the tent and walk out on day three.

Alas, the vagaries of the Scottish weather put pay to that....

Our first day (30/04/22) was a washout. knowing this before we set off, the plan changed. Rather than getting Slioch in on day one, we'd have a hearty meal in Kinlochewe hotel and walk in to Lochan Fada after the rain stopped. Yes we had to pass on a hill, but we got Venison stew instead. Not too shabby...

Off we embarked then on day one at 7pm to Lochan Fada. Nothing much to report apart from the many deer that were in the glen. Well only one thing. I wear this fabulous invention called 'blis sox' to stop blisters on my heels. They work a treat! But, We were only walking in to Lochan Fada, Surely I don't need them for that.... err.... yes I did. And I suffered that decision for the rest of the weekend on my sore right foot!

Camping at Lochan Fada at just after 9pm left us with just enough light to get the tents up whilst we could see what we were doing. But to be fair to the met office, the forecast was bang on. No more rain on the walk in, nor whilst we were putting up the tents.

Night one was uneventful, apart from rediscovering why sleeping on a thin mattress is not one of life's pleasures.

Then came day two. As we awoke it was one of those magic moments where there is no wind, with Lochan Fada a perfect mirror. Just awesome! No one else was there. What a privilege to see it!

After Breakfast was heartily consumed, it was time to focus on today's mission: The big attempt of the Fisherfield five Munros!

To make things a bit more interesting we went for the easterly approach up Sgurr Ban up the 'slabs'. After a bit of a walk round the corner, there was Sgurr Ban and its slabs. We were duly impressed! Its really worth going up Sgurr Ban this way. Admittedly towards the top its a boulder fest, but the slabs are great to see. Even more fascinating were the wee cracks in the slabs filled with water and tadpoles!

Unfortunately for us, where the morning had been almost cloud free, by the time we summitted Sgurr Ban we were mostly surrounded by cloud. Only occasional breaks revealed the beauty beyond. But, that walk in was fairly hard going. Doubt that we'd be able to summit all five was starting to creep in...

As there wasn't much to see, off we went to Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair. It wasn't long before we were on top of the Mullach. Some really interesting rocks to look at on the way up.

Again only occasional reveals on the summit, but the clouds were framing some great shots! What a great summit it is: Nice and pointy!

Now off to Beinn Tarsuinn, but this was a longer walk between hills and a lower descent. Having worked our way to the Bealach, and then up to the Summit, we were feeling it! The thought of two more hills, especially the two with some amazing views (so they say), with the cloud hovering around the summits and a long walk back to the tents, the doubt was well established now!

Onward we went to that most fascinating feature of the tennis court. What a brilliant thing it is! Most bizarre. You've definitely got to make sure you go over that on your round.

Continuing along the ridge (which is a nice ridge!) we dropped off to the bealach at ~500m before the ascent to A' Mhaighdean starts. But, now that we could see these two fantastic hills, and how far it was, the legs said 'too much'!

So, leaving these two great hills for another day, we turned left and headed cross country back to the tents. Ah, a little disappointed that we didn't make the 5, but it was a great day nonetheless.

An average wild camp dinner followed, but some great cloud pyrotechnics ended the day with some great shots! Our attention then turned to day three, Could we conquer Slioch on the walk out? Will the clouds clear? We shall see in the morning...

Day three dawned with a better night's sleep (still nothing compared to my cosy bed at home but for wild camp standards, not bad). And Slioch? In the cloud. Gutted. And being off grid, no phone coverage to check the forecast.

But, tentative signs were there whilst eating bacon butties that the cloud might lift, so we headed in Slioch's direction (over the stepping stones at the outflow of lochan Fada). The nearer we got the higher the cloud got. Ooo it might just lift....

We then found a route up the back of Slioch. This was loads of fun. A bit of scrambling to spice things up too! Obviously we weren't the first to attempt this as I came across a full water bottle that someone has lost. If this was you - don't worry - I emptied it out and took the bottle home for recycling!

Onwards to the first top and the cloud had lifted. Awesome! Amazing views. Then on to the summit and, well, just wow. Loch Maree was looking awesome and the surrounding hills fantastic. Beinn Eighe was still clinging to a tiny bit of cloud in the south, but An Teallach was free to show off it grandeur.

Descending back down to Incheril car park via the Slioch 'tourist route' was fun. What a great hill. The more the day went on the clearer the sky. One of those where you wish you'd summitted a bit later...

And then that walk out along Kinlochewe river. Doesn't that just go on? The last km felt like 5km! But, there it was; the car! Collapsing in a heap we'd managed four munros. Good. A decent weekend. Time to find a chippy....

[rockhopper]

Pity about the weather but an interesting route nonetheless. Also had venison stew last year when we stayed at the Kinlochewe Hotel - most enjoyable and would echo your sentiments - cheers

[Alteknacker]

As Rockhopper says: an interesting route. But I guess Fisherfield is a wonderful place however you access and traverse it - I too had pretty decent weather when I was there a few years ago.

PS a propos mattresses. I've been using inflatable insulating mattresses for some years now - I have both Therm-a-Rest and Exped. They're pretty light, insulate well in deepest winter, and are very comfortable. I have a 3/4 length one for multiday walks, when I have to carry it - weighs 240gm; and a full sized one for when I don't have to carry it so far (eg on the walk out to Sheneval when I walked the Fisherfield hills) - weighs 600gm. I don't mind the smidgin of extra weight in exchange for the much greater comfort.

[Mal Grey]

Grand stuff, and a slightly different variation on these wonderful hills.

[The English Alpinist]

Any expedition where we come away with a few in the bag can be considered a success, especially for such a wild region. You got some fantastic memories of great routes, and the report is a great read thanks! The prospect of camping does not fill me with joy, though, but I guess it has to be done out there. I'm sure you'd have done the full house if not for the day 1 weather. I remember April 30th well, I just about got my own walk in (one Corbett) before the rains came down in earnest.

[Sgurr]

For YEARS husband had only the Fisherfield and the Inn Pinn to compleat. For years friends came up from England to do them with him. For years there were no forecasts saying 4 consecutive good days in Fisherfield so they were aborted until English friends got tired of telling their friends that the plan for the summer was exactly the same as last year, and the year before that, and the year before that. So we would go in COME WHAT MAY. Camped at Loch Fhada, and by morning it was raining fairly hard. One friend and us climbed three hills while the other two cowered in their tents They did actually go out and climb the nearest around tea time when it was easing off.. Next day, it was overcast. Original friend cowered in tent saying he was extremely ill. We did ask him which medication we should force down his throat if he was unconscious on our return, climbed A'Mhaigdean and its mate, Had already climbed the now demoted to a Corbett 6th at the end. original friend by now recovered.

Your report is very reminiscent, except that you have had FAR less shilly shallying. Congratulations "The hills will always be there: the trick is to make sure you are too."