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A Perfect Day on East Glenshee

A Perfect Day on East Glenshee


Postby scribe64 » Wed May 11, 2022 2:02 pm

Route description: Glas Maol Munros circuit, Cairnwell Pass

Munros included on this walk: Cairn of Claise, Càrn an Tuirc

Date walked: 20/04/2022

Time taken: 6 hours

Distance: 12.4 km

Ascent: 719m

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Having tackled Glas Maol and Creag Leacach in fairly overcast conditions in the first week of the Easter holidays, Francis and I headed back up the A93 in the second week to complete the East Glenshee quartet with Carn an Tuirc and Cairn of Claise. The difference this time was that the weather was perfect. I mean not just good but perfect! Blue skies, bright sunshine, a gentle breeze, amazing visibilty - it was the kind of day that made the hills look like an improbable cgi construction (and which my photographs will inevitably not do justice to!).

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Carn an Tuirc waiting for us.

Whizzing past the ski-centre for once we pulled into the small car park 2km further on and quickly got ourselves organised. The weather and the sight of Carn an Tuirc sitting majestically at the head of the glen already had us excited and there was a real sense that the day might prove to be very special. There was none of the usual faffing around and we were soon crossing the old stone bridge over the burn and heading upwards.

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Passing the first shieling. Carn Aosda and The Cairnwell behind us.

After some initial bogginess, the path up the glen was a delight, passing some old shielings and running close to a stream. Lured by the sound of the water, we opted to leave the higher path and and walk by the stream - passing tempting pools and gushing waterfalls.

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Who doesn't love a waterfall? (Well, maybe Paul McCartney and TLC.)

We were so seduced that we probably followed the stream further than we should have, missing the WH recommended path after the second shieling. Not that it mattered. Navigation was not going to be an issue on a day like this and we were both enjoying ourselves too much to care.

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Francis enjoying the stepping stones.

When we finally managed to tear ourselves away from the stream, the route choice was brutally simple - straight up toward the top!

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This bit was tough.

There were three stages to the ascent. First, a long steep pull up a grassy, peaty slope (I found this tough going. Francis was way ahead of me.) Second, a brief respite across a flattish heathery plateau - where we picked up the WH route again.

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This bit was easy.

Finally, a decent path up through the rocky west face of the mountain. (Where I managed to catch up!)

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This bit was... Holy Moly, look at that view!

I think this third stage was probably just as steep as the first but it really didn't feel it because this is where the views really began to open up. Every time I stopped to catch my breath the horizon seemed to stretch further into the distance.

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Looking SW over the Cairnwell Trio to Glas Tuliachan and (I think) Carn an Righ and Beinn Iutharn Mhor?


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Looking North to Ben Avon and the snowy Cairngorms.

The views were so good that we decided to stop for an early lunch just below the final rocky approach to the summit - not because we were particularly hungry but mainly so we could take the time to properly appreciate the sunshine, the outlook and the pure joy of being out in a place like this on a day like this.

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Not a bad spot for a sandwich.

We really dawdled there for a while but when when we finally, reluctantly managed to tear ourselves away it only took a few minutes to reach the rocky summit.

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Francis and Monkey on Carn an Tuirc.

The large boulderfield was in stark contrast to the green slopes of Cairn of Claise which we could now see to the south. Thankfully, we remembered to set off eastwards first - a helpful cairn there to remind us.

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The grassy slopes of Cairn of Claise beckon beyond the rocky summit plateau.

Watching Francis march ahead of me toward the horizon and the blue sky, suddenly everything felt very cinematic! Like the opening scene of Paris, Texas. Like the day deserved a Ry Cooder soundtrack.

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Heading East to exit Carn an Tuirc

I should've let him carry on to the edge of the corrie, then we could've got a look down at Loch Kander but Wim Wenders had distracted me and I forgot. Instead we swung round to the south in a graceful arc and picked up the track to Cairn of Claise.

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The dull slog across to Cairn of Claise.

It has to be said that the trek between the two summits is not the most exciting part of the walk - especially when you lose the view to the north for a bit. I quite enjoyed it, still revelling in the vivid brightness of the day - but Francis found it a bit of a slog and dragged his heels in protest.

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Just follow the wall!

He suddenly found a new burst of energy when we left the track to follow the wall which marks the final stretch to the summit. He bolted ahead to claim his 9th Munro - not a bad tally in 5 weeks! - and one better than the Monkey (who got left in the car at Beinn Ghlas along with the sandwiches).

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Two monkeys on Cairn of Claise.

The descent from Cairn of Claise was a simple matter of heading SW toward Glas Maol. I can imagine it might be trickier in poor visibility, when the continuing wall would be a useful guide, but we had no such issues.

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Descending SW toward Glas Maol.

Glas Maol looked good, free from the clag that had shrouded it the week before. We briefly contemplated heading up to enjoy it in this better weather but Francis didn't fancy the added distance.

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Putting Cairn of Claise behind us.

Instead, we stuck to our original plan - completing a circular route by taking the NW ridge to Sron na Gaoithe and then back down to car park.

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Our descent route. Down the ridge toward Sron na Gaoithe.

But before that I couldn't resist cutting across to Craigie Glasalt to get a proper look into Caenlochan Glen - and in particular the handsome cliffs below Little Glas Maol and Monega Hill which looked very impressive in the sunshine.

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The cliffs on the south side of Caenlochan Glen.

I don't know which came first but Monega Hill shares its name with an ancient drovers route from Glen Isla to Braemar. This was the route we were going to follow to get us back down into the glen.

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Setting of NW down the ridge - the route of the old Monega drovers road.

This stretch was an absolute joy. Easy walking on grass, gently downhill and with plenty of time to enjoy that view over to the Cairngorms. No trudging here - we ambled down the ridge.

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Sron na Gaoithe summit.

Of course, we couldn't resist the minor detour to enjoy the summit of Sron na Gaoithe. This seems to stand over Glenshee like a pulpit or the prow of of a ship. I think the name translates as Nose of the Wind which seems brilliantly apt - though it only offered a pleasant breeze for us.

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Last chance to enjoy the view.

Although the lowest of the three summits - and not even qualifying for any bagging lists - this was my favourite of the day. I thought it's nebbiness gave it real character compared to the plateaus of the two Munros. And its setting felt very dramatic. (I might've burst into a rendition of My Heart Will Go On if I hadn't been afraid that Francis' response would've been to push me over the edge!)

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"I can see the car from here."

I could honestly have hung about up there for hours but there was still the long drive home to think about so we eventually left the summit - heading NE a little before cutting back and angling down the steep slope until we picked up what I assume was the drove road again (a faint path with marker stones).

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Back across the other bridge.

We made it back to the car later than expected but it didn't matter. I think we'd stretched out a perfect day in the hills because we didn't want it to end.
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scribe64
Walker
 
Posts: 30
Munros:17   Corbetts:1
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Joined: Oct 12, 2021
Location: Edinburgh

Re: A Perfect Day on East Glenshee

Postby Anne C » Wed May 11, 2022 2:43 pm

What a lovely read! I love that round though last time we did it in December, the clag was down (the forecast was for it to be clear :( ) so it's great to see your sunny clear photos. As you say, navigation up there in a white out is no fun!
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Anne C
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Posts: 457
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Joined: May 14, 2010

Re: A Perfect Day on East Glenshee

Postby scribe64 » Thu May 12, 2022 9:36 am

Anne C wrote:What a lovely read! I love that round though last time we did it in December, the clag was down (the forecast was for it to be clear :( ) so it's great to see your sunny clear photos. As you say, navigation up there in a white out is no fun!


Thank you!
Yes, we'd had a taste of the plateau in the clag the week before on Glas Maol - a very different experience! Think that's what made this day even more special. The photos really don't do it justice.
And I agree, it's a lovely round. We'll definitely be doing it again - though maybe not in December!
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scribe64
Walker
 
Posts: 30
Munros:17   Corbetts:1
Fionas:2   Donalds:2
Sub 2000:7   
Islands:19
Joined: Oct 12, 2021
Location: Edinburgh

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