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A Borders loop from Holms Water

A Borders loop from Holms Water


Postby malky_c » Tue Jun 07, 2022 3:43 pm

Fionas included on this walk: Culter Fell, Gathersnow Hill

Donalds included on this walk: Chapelgill Hill, Culter Fell, Gathersnow Hill, Hillshaw Head, Hudderstone

Date walked: 28/05/2022

Time taken: 6 hours

Distance: 24 km

Ascent: 1470m

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Grahams: Culter Fell, Gathersnow Hill.
Other Donalds/ New Donalds: Chapelgill Hill, Cardon Hill, Hudderstone, Coomb Dodd, Hillshaw Head, Coomb Hill.
Date: 28/05/2022.
Distance: 24km.
Ascent: 1470m.
Time: 5 hours, 55 minutes.
Weather: Warm and sunny, occasional breeze.

I like walking in the Borders, but when there is a choice to be made between there and the Highlands, it always comes off second-best. A weather incentive or passing through the area for another reason are usually needed for me to go there. I had a free weekend in Glasgow, and for once I made a conscious decision I was going to head south. Any number of places beckoned but I thought I would choose some hills that Jackie had done and I hadn't - probably no better time than now to do some of those. While we're both generally keen to revisit areas and go up hills again and again some of the Borders hills are much further down the priority list than other places! I had in fact already been up Culter Fell and Gathersnow Hill in 2014 as part of a week-long trek through the area, but had seen nothing and left many of the lower summits out.

Due to last night's late(ish) finish I didn't get up that early, and one missed turn on the M8 later, I arrived at Glenkirk just before midday. I had come up with a route that had less out-and-back than the more usual one starting from Culter Allers farm and I also fancied visiting a different glen for some variation. Plenty of parking on the verge down here and no other walkers present.


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Passing through a couple of fields I was on the open hillside in a matter of minutes. The terrain was well grazed low down, becoming more heathery as I gained height. I bashed through a little bit of deep heather as the gradient to Chapelgill Hill began to ease, discovering that if I had been very slightly further south on the ridge a bove Glenkirk farm, I would have found a path the whole way.

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Glenkirk

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Congrie Hill and Culter Fell

Not to worry, the ascent was pretty straightforward without this anyway. The glen of Holms Water was pleasant and quiet, although somewhat scarred by a new forestry track that had been constructed along the south side. The entire head of the glen beneath Culter Fell itself had been strip-planted with new conifers. I thought this sort of monoculture planting had gone out of fashion but it seems to persist in parts of the Borders still.

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Holms Water and Trahenna Hill from Chapelgill Hill

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Broad Law from Chapelgill Hill

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Tinto from Chapelgill

On Chapelgill Hill, the horizons opened up to the rest of my summits, the Manor hills Tinto and the distant Highlands. I jumped a few peat hags before picking up a path and fence which led me to Cardon Hill. Probably a slightly better viewpoint being right on the edge of the high summits.

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Across Biggar from Cardon Hill

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Cairn Table and Tinto from Cardon Hill

Then it was a slight retrace of steps before heading for Culter Fell. The driest route went away from the fenceline and some hags to stick slightly to the east - before that I crossed the ridge of Dun Knees - a good description of how I would feel by the end of the weekend!

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Culter Fell from Dun Knees

Then it was an easy climb up onto Culter Fell where the sun came out from behind a cloud and I stopped for lunch. While my previous visit here hadn't been that bad, there had been nothing to see so I enjoyed the views over lunch.

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Looking back to Chapelgill Hill

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Manor Hills and Tweeddale from Culter Fell

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Across Coulter Reservoir to the Lowther Hills

Next a slightly left-field route - down to the dam on Coulter Reservoir then up the other side to Hudderstone. After the initial steep descent there was a track the whole way to the dam (although I cut a few corners from the zigzags). Culter Water itself was a very attractive steep-sided glen and the top of the dam had no fences barring access. I did have to climb a low iron fence on the far side to regain the track though, followed by a steep pathless climb (grazed ground so easy enough) up the side of Little Stone Gill. I had hoped for some water in this burn but it was pretty much dry.

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Coulter Reservoir and Hudderstone

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Dam on the reservoir

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Coulter Reservoir

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Culter Water and the waterworks

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Looking back to Coulter Reservoir and Gathersnow Hill

As the gradient eased the going became a little mushier to Hudderstone but there was a faint quad bike track to follow the whole way. The summit of Hudderstone was marked by the rusty remains of an old gardening fork stabbed into the ground and a close-up of the extensive Clyde windfarm.

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Tinto from Hudderstone

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Clyde Windfarm covers a large area here including the ridge between Hudderstone and Hillshaw Head

There was a short descent along a fenceline to the windfarm road, which I then mostly followed to the next summits. These roads are wide and not particularly aesthetic, but the old route through the bog by the fenceline wasn't really any more pleasant so I stuck to the tracks except where I was able to cut out a loop.

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Looking back to Hudderstone

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Culter Fell from the windfarm

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Windfarm track towards Hillshaw Head and Coomb Dod

The track contoured round the upper slopes of Hillshaw Head and went most of the way to Coomb Dod before contouring its summit. The last couple of minutes to the trig point on Coomb Dod were on nice short grass - a pleasure after the dull track. Nice views over the upper Tweed and the back of Hart Fell and White Coombe, with Fruid Reservoir looking particularly prominent. It was just about possible to pick out the northern Lake District in the haze to the south as well.

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Fruid Reservoir and Hart Fell

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Zoom to Cumbria and Skiddaw

An easy grassy traverse over Hillshaw Head and Gathersnow Hill offered similar views, with Talla Reservoir gradually becoming more prominent. I had another lunch break on Gathersnow Hill. The good going continued across Coomb Hill but after that the vegetation grew longer as I headed for Broomy Law. I could have descended directly to Holms Waterhead instead but I decided to stay on the ridge for a little longer.

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Talla Reservoir and the back of White Coomb

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Culter Fell and Chapelgill Hill from Coomb Hill

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Across Tinto to the Southern Highlands

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Coomb Hill from Broomy Law

There were faint paths across Broomy Law and Glenlood hill before I plunged completely into the heather to drop down next to Nether Glenlood Burn. At least the going became grassy as I dropped lower down - the main reason for this slightly odd route choice was to top up with water at a spot not completely overrun by grazing animals. Although the burn was only a trickle, it served my needs.

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Nether Glenlood Burn

All that remained was to cross the hideous new forestry track and Holms Water (a tiny crossing) to return to the car. A nice day out and as a bonus I had spotted a quiet corner to put my tent up not too far away. With so much of the land farmed in this neck of the woods, looking for a sneaky spot to pop the tent up isn't something that I particularly enjoy, but here I hit the jackpot. I had a lovely quiet evening sitting out reading in the sun followed by dinner and a beer - the only surprise was a dog sniffing around my tent in the middle of the night - presumably being walked along the road nearby!

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Quiet spot for the night
User avatar
malky_c
 
Posts: 6434
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Joined: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Inverness

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