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I was recently given the biography of Gavin Maxwell, The Saga of Ring of Bright Water, an excellent book written about the writer by Douglas Botting. As a writer, he's probably best known for Ring of Bright Water and his relationship with Otters.
Reading it, it becomes obvious that he is a character of very wide contrasts. Nature lover due to his dealings with otters, or bloodthirsty killer after his horrendous shark fishing venture. City yuppie, or country loner, even English or Scottish. A very interesting read.
So much of his biography and his later life evolve around Sandaig Bay near Glenelg. It was referred to as Camusfearna in his best known book Ring of Bright Water. Looking at the photos from back then, it was an idyllic spot. It's easy to imagine where you'd get inspiration for writing living at such a remote and fairly inaccessible spot.
I'd seen photos of the place taken recently, and was very interested in visiting myself to see what this place was like.
I've got an old VW camper van and the road up and over Ratagan Pass certainly gives the engine a good workout. I'd been up and over a couple of times previously with the van, but it never fails to amaze me the height which is gained so rapidly up the hairpins. Just look down over the verge when descending. Incredible road.
There is a lot of forestry work going on around Sandaig Bay, and what looked like one of the main paths down to the bay was closed off and forestry machinery was hard at work in that area. There was a little sign pointing to Sandaig Bay, instructing to continue along the main forest track. I followed the main track along past the shut path, over a concrete bridge across a burn, up and over a hill then followed a branch down on my right towards the coast. I would recommend just follow the footprints of people. It is a popular spot due to the connection with Gavin Maxwell.
Following the track down towards the shore, the first view you get of the bay is from an elevated viewing position, fenced so as not to slip down the short cliffs to the bay. My first impression was the beauty of the place. It's almost live a curving natural harbour with rocky outcrops, a sandy beach turning stony, leading to an elevated grassy meadow. It is very much like an island, although it's just a spur off the peninsula. The climate can't be that bad here as the grass on the meadow was long and fairly lush. In the weather I experienced, I would certainly liked to have lived in this spot.
The first view of the remaining cottage.
The memorial to Gavin Maxwell.
And the memorial to Edal the Otter.
Some views of the bay.
We rummaged around in the rock pools for a while. Must be really clean water, the first time I've seen sea anemones!
An incredibly rewarding walk. Thoroughly enjoyed it, as did my dog!
