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Another windy weekend - and quite cold too - not really like the middle of June. Forecast wasn't good enough to go anywhere exotic, so stuck to a motley lot of hills around Glencoe. Headed up on Thursday night - something we haven't done for a few weekends - and camped behind the Kingshouse in the rain. We were in no hurry to get up on Friday morning as heavy rain was set to continue until lunchtime, then it was supposedly to be full sun for the rest of the day. Therefore we didn't get out of bed til about 10.30 and prepared to set off as the rain was petering out. About a million walkers passed us from the Kingshouse, doing the WHW with princess packs (mostly) and those godawful rain capes that flap about like irritated ghosts. Given the force of the wind at our level, I reckoned they were really going to enjoy going up the Devil's Staircase
Shouldn't laugh, but we did...
Our object for the day was the Graham of Stob na Cruaiche, which we'd climbed last time from Rannoch Station. Our route today was well described by Black Panther a few years ago and uses track for about 3/4 of the distance, heading past Black Corries Lodge. We paused at Loch Meall a'Phuill for lunch and watched a white tailed eagle circle over the water looking for a tasty trout meal but leaving empty-taloned. Such a big bird when seen close up - needless to say my attempts to photograph it did not result in useable shots
We continued on - the hard track giving way to grassy ATV track as we started up onto Ston na Cruaiche itself. The summit, predictably, is quite a long way from where one might want it to be, but the views from the top are good. We returned by much the same route as that taken out. When we got back to the Kingshouse, we saw that there were a few tents pitched around the spot we'd used the. light before, so we packed our things into the big rucksacks and headed back up the track towards Black Corries, where we'd noticed several suitable camping spots. The wind was really whistling against us as we put the tent up and retreated into the dry and warm tent.
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The new, pocket sized, Allison
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Moody BEM
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The forecast for Sunday had worsened - it had originally suggested lighter winds then, but there seemed little to chose between Saturday and Sunday, so we opted to do Stob Ban and Mullach nan Coirean today, as it would be a longer outing than the one we had planned for Beinn Maol Challum. Hoped it would not be too windy up top. Decided to go from Kinlochleven, as less miles to drive there. Parked in a lay-by just west of the Hotel and noticed there was a track going up to join with the main WHW track, which was convenient. There were numerous folk walking the Way - we amused ourselves by imagining a wee man sitting at a desk, maybe around An Dun and asking all those who approached him the "Three Questions" as in Monty Python & the Holy Grail...and forbidding them to pass if they couldn't give the appropriate answer - banished back to Drymen, say...
We spotted a group of blokes heading up into Coire na h-Eirghe. We intended to go that way, as it's a good path, but it would likely be more efficient to head up Coire a'Bhutha and join the track running to the east of Stob Ban. What's another couple of hundred metres of ascent, though
The guys were off to do Am Bodice and Stob Coire a'Chairn, which provides a nice little loop. We stopped for lunch before reaching the head of the coire, then continued around Sgurr an Iubhair, past the wee lochan and onwards towards Stob Ban, which by now was rising up in the near distance. It is an impressive mountain. Although the wind was quite strong, our ascent was mostly in the wind shadow and posed no problems. On our way round to Mullach we met a guy from Edinburgh who'd come up from Glen Nevis and was planning to overnight up high. - we suggested by the wee lochan as I doubt there's anything else suitable with a strong westerly wind blowing. As usual we marvelled at the sudden transition from the white rock of Stob Ban to the red of Mullach. Summit reached, all we had to do now was get down... Last time we'd gone over to the west top and headed down from there, but today it was just straight down the steep grassy side of the mountain, keeping to the west of the Allt a'Choire Charaich then rejoining the WHW track. Every 5 minutes or so we'd be passed by a runner heading for Ft William - I'm guessing these were runners doing the WHW Ultra, although they looked surprisingly fresh for having come all that way, including one guy who was smiling with sheer happiness. Crazy folk
Stob Ban
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We returned to the car and drove along the loch a couple of miles to pitch shore-side in a spot we've sued before. Another night of rain and strong winds. Dry by morning however.
On Sunday we headed back to the parking area near Signal Rock and prepared to set off for Beinn Maol Chaluim . I do like to do repeats using different routes and I'd noticed in teh WH description of this hill that it was possible, if awkward, to do BMC from Glencoe/Fionn Ghleann. Nothing was going to tempt me into The Hell That Is Glen Etive In Summer, so an alternate approach was welcome. Couldn't find any reports on the site from this direction however.
We took the track up Gleann Leac na Mhuidhe that one uses for Sgor na h-Ulaidh or Meall Lighiche, following the bypass around the houses then following the treeline around and into Fionn Ghleann. Animal tracks make the going alright and we followed an old fence line along the river, passing a number of waterfalls. Up ahead we could see the crown of Beinn Maol Challum - I'd noticed it many times driving past and just thought it was a bit of Bidean nam Bian, which I suppose it is, really. We crossed the river high up and stopped for lunch behind a huge boulder. Then we set about gaining some altitude. It's just a steep grassy pull until you near the bealach with Stob Coire Nam Beith, where there are crags. It's easy enough to pick a grassy rake between the crags/slabs and then it's simply a matter of following an old fence line to the summit. A short scree run just before the top and Bob's your Uncle. As ever, great views of Trilleachan and Loch Etive. A more interesting route than the rather dull whale-back route up from Glen Etive IMO. We returned the same way, I managed to slip in a boggy puddle and get rather soaked, but with a stiff breeze and occasional sunshine I was dried off by the time I got back to the car.
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Sgor na h-Ulaidh
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BMC
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Bidean
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Loch Etive view
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Ulaidh, Fionnlaidh
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View back up Fionn Ghleann
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