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Three days after our sightseeing visit to Caithness Brochs, the sulky Scottish weather improved significantly: the mad wind died out and the low cloud lifted off the mountain tops. It was a signal for us, time to go winter walking! It's been two weeks since our last mountain trip (Beinn Teallach) and my mental batteries needed charging!
The front news were still bad though the initial speed of the invasion has slowed down and, miraculously, Kiyv was still holding on. I was impressed and bewildered at the same time, but to be honest, I didn't believe things could stay that way for long and deep down in my mind, I expected the worst
To run away from the dark cloud of my own, tormented mind, I urged Kevin to drive us to Inverlael with the first rays of daylight...
In early spring 2019 we climbed Beinn Dearg on its own, exploring
the NW ridge. Today, we were planning to visit the two northern Munros, Eididh nan Clach Geala and Meall nan Ceapraichean, including Ceann Garbh, a classified Munro top which we somehow managed to miss when we did the full round of the four M's.
Weather was very good, sunny and relatively quiet, with a decent amount of snow - enough to turn this excursion into a proper winter expedition
- Meall nan Ceapraichean from the path in Gleann na Sguaib
First look at the snow-capped tops of An Teallach:
We took the northern branch of the path leading into An Cnapach, admiring the wintry landscape around us as we walked. It really felt liberating to be out there, away from stresses and dark thoughts. So liberating I even pulled up my trouser legs
I'm generally an "always frozen" type of person, wearing several layers even on warm days, so this was quite an unusual sight - not that there was anybody to witness it apart from my husband and a few ptarmigan loitering around
Panoramic view back to Beinn Dearg:
We left the path at some point and started to climb more steeply up the shoulder of Sidhean Dhubh, trying to avoid the soft, melting patches of snow and wet rocks, sometimes without luck
One more pano, this time of Eididh nan Clach Geala (left), Meall nan Ceapraichean (middle) and Beinn Dearg (right):
Working through the slushy stuff higher up the ridge:
Once on the ridge itself, we were forced to stop and wrap up in warm layers as conditions suddenly turned arctic...not that I minded it too much!
Views were amazing already, including the Assynt and Coigach tops:
Seana Bhreaigh:
Heading towards the summit of Eididh nan Clach Geala:
We had some fun kicking our way through the deeper snow on the final approach, but it was easy enough so we didn't even bother with crampons. Soon we arrived by the northern cairn. I'm not sure which of the two cairns mark the exact summit so we visited them both.
- Kevin by the N cairn
Lucy on the S cairn. She has, just as me and Kevin, been to the Dearg 4 before, but she was happy to repeat
The Fannichs behind the NW ridge of Beinn Dearg:
An Teallach and the Fisherfields in the distance:
We didn't linger on for too long as it was a bit too cold for a picnic. The sky was clouding up, so it was time to carry on to the second Munro:
A cute, fluffed-up ptarmigan:
We took the usual descent route down the E shoulder to the wide col with multiple lochans (couldn't even see most of them now as frozen and covered in snow):
Meall nan Ceapraichean in panoramic mode:
Kevin assessing the slopes in front of him to pick the best ascent route:
A snow bridge over the stream on the bealach:
We quickly picked a wide gully, or should I say a snow-covered ramp leading up at reasonable angle, soon it proved easier to walk on than we initially expected. No frozen, hard surface, no crampons needed.
- Me looking down at the col we just crossed
Zoom to Creag an Duine, the lower top of Seana Bhraigh - an intriguing, rocky peak:
Once on the main ridge, we entered the world of white silence, broken only by occasional happy meows
- Me meowing, him busy photographing :P
We aimed for the Munro top, Ceann Garbh first. The summit area was rocky and surprisingly devoid of deep snow:
- Kevin on Ceann Garbh
Assynt-Coigach pano seen from Ceann Garbh:
Our next target - Meall nan Ceapraichean. Beinn Dearg in the background:
It didn't take us long to reach the summit. Splendid views, as on any hill in this area. Weather was holding despite more cloud in the sky, so we decided to take a longer break, have some hot tea and enjoy the last moments of winter. There was nobody else in sight and we were overwhelmed by the total isolation and silence of the ancient landscape around us. I could feel mountains in my blood again - and it felt good indeed.
- Kevin on the summit of our second Munro today
Summit panos:
Normally, the route over the 4 Munros continues from Meall nan Ceapraichean to Cona Mheall (seen here behind me) but we didn't want to push our luck as it was getting late:
The mighty Beinn Dearg from the descent to Bealach an Lochan Uaine:
We took our time on the descent, enjoying the views for as long as they lasted. Even lower down on the path past Lochan Lathail, it was still an impressive landscape to admire - rocks, cliffs, snow, lochans...
- Lochan Lathail
The western cliffs of Meall nan Ceapraichean:
The breathtaking high walls of the NW ridge of Beinn Dearg:
Lower down, where the path emerged from the snow, we picked up pace and walked briskly down into Gleann na Sguaib, passing a nice waterfall en route:
It was a fantastic experience, to be on these hills in winter conditions. Most walkers leave this group for a long summer day, just to bag them all in one go, but it is indeed worth returning to them on a snowy day, even if walking only a part of the route. It's a completely different world up there when it's all white - and so beautiful!
Two days later, taking advantage of some time off, we re-visited one of less known northern Grahams. No snow this time but lovely views to Seana Breaigh and the peaks of the far north. TR to come soon.
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