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Last week we were up doing An Teallach and five of her seven Tops. I mentioned we'd be back to do the remaining southern two Tops at some point, but I didn't really expect to be back up so quickly. But Anything in the Fisherfields produces a desire to be back up there, so when I saw the forecast for this weekend was to be cloudy but dry, with moderate winds, I had a think about what a route might look like. We've never done the Fisherfields from Shenavall although we did do Beinn a'Chlaidheimh from that direction once. What about adding on the Beinn Deargs and the Chaisgeins, and finishing by returning over Chlaidhmaimh? Sounds a good 'un. Some sections of track, for Allison's bones, some off piste stuff and a weekend in some of out favourite hills.
The drive up was pretty slow on Thursday, taking a very long time to get through Glasgow, possibly a result of the rail strike? Anyway we were about an hour later than we'd been the weekend before getting up. The sun is setting noticeably earlier now, hence the thrust to get some of the far away hills done while there's still light to see on the drive up. Gorgeous sunset over the hills as we headed past Black Bridge - would have been an ideal evening for a high camp. We reached our chosen camp spot near Braemore Junction in the gloaming and had to fend off midges as we got the tent pitched. A quiet and dry night.
Sunset over Loch Glascarnoch
D2805FC9-534B-4414-A88D-611671E7DF1C_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
We were up quite early into a glorious sunny morning. That hadn't been predicted by the weather forecast. Short drive along to Corrie Hallie where we got parked easily, a bit to my surprise as it had been rammed this time last weekend. Rucksacks on, said bye-bye to the car and headed along on the track towards Shenavall. Last time we'd been here was a rainy, miserable day in May doing the CWT - much, much nicer today. We were overtaken by a young couple who said they were off to climb An Teallach - they didn't take the turn off to Sail Liath that we did, and we never saw them again, which was a little weird as I don't think we were going
that slowly. Anyway, we headed towards the scree runs on the tail of Sail Liath and made our delicate way up - easier in descent this bit, I think. We parked our sacks at the cairn at the southeastern extremity of Sail Liath and headed up, unburdened, for the Grey Heel and the Red Goblin. (Yeah, I know "Stob Cadha Ghoblach" means
peak of the forked ravine but the Peak of the Red Goblin sounds better. To my ears.). We'd only been up here once before, in thick clag, so we weren't prepared for the stupendous view of the pinnacles that slams you right in the eyes from these Tops. Really special.
E1FF16AA-75BD-4A05-85F2-167643A7B3E6_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
The Beinn Deargs
C0AD8571-C958-4805-8409-E9FB6797CB52_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
59D0879E-1D5C-4226-AB76-F7C5493CBE49_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Whoa!
D5A52C0C-6F9C-457A-BA32-E37D84B25B21_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Going to the Goblin
AE05DFA4-3E34-4CFF-9328-3C6F0266634B_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr[
D86ACFF3-5FF9-44DA-A128-013B52B5CB81_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Loch na Sealga
A25449AE-C933-4FA3-9492-85944182AEE6_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
15D177CD-17F5-48F4-A803-5D53F8BAEFE5_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
From there we tracked back to our packs and descended off the tail of Sail Liath, making for the track to Shenavall. Where we met a man from Perth on his way back to Corrie Hallie. He'd just done the Six and despite pretty good weather hadn't enjoyed them much - too hard, too hot and he had a big rucksack, having camped out two night on the circuit. As these are some of my favourite hills, I was a bit saddened to hear they weren't for him - he said he had 14 Munros left then was hanging up his boots. We continued on to Shenavall, where we popped inside for a late lunch to get away from the clegs. There were three lads outside, who'd come in to camp on A'Mhaighdean (or Armageddon as they called it) and were now heading back to the car. Personally Id have come in from Poolewe if I was only doing that one. We also met a Swiss couple who were doing a bit of the CWT although were thinking of walking out to Gruinard then on to Ullapool - not the easiest or the quickest way to get to Ullapool...
ED7B1B48-48B1-45E8-AF14-1D330599622A_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Our journey now was to get up the Beinn Deargs. I had thought about going up the steep eastern side which would be shorter, but we've done that before and it was extremely steep, not to be recommended with big packs. Last time we'd gone up Gleann na Muice Beag to Loch Beinn Dearg and headed up to the bealach, which is easy enough but a bit dull - so this time I though we'd go in from the north, via Coire Toll an Lochain. We walked down to the river, from Shenavall, dithered about in boggy pools, met the cows, including some Belted Galloways, and picked up the rough track that leads along the shore of Loch na Sealga. By this time it was very very hot and we were wilting under the heat. I wasn't sure where we were going to end up tonight - I had hopes of being able to find a pitch on the bealach between the Deargs, which would mean that we could take our time going up them.
An Teallach from the other side
AC20E246-CB81-4A95-863B-D94F875102C3_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Rescue copter flying past
A4663087-C367-466D-865A-BD17B2B56652_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Beinn Dearg Mor
8AFC1E04-935F-4D8F-A4A4-2120C92F126A_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
An Teallach
E50C7D18-F537-4382-AFC4-8B91A2D878E7_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Loch na Sealga
52E65B74-53A9-4E93-9B20-36050E397955_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
The coire sealed us off from the pleasant breeze that had helped offer some cooling air as we walked along the loch side. I though my head was going to burst into flames as we toiled upwards. Finally we came to the outflow stream from the lochan and what bliss - we drank cool water, we splashed arms and faces; I filled my Tilley hat and put it over my head. Refreshed, we continued up into the coire with renewed vigour, reaching the lochan with its red sandy beach, a favourite with the deer going by the profusion of hoof prints. Then up a grassy bulge to the bealach. It was around 6pm by this point and I was able to get a signal to check the weather. Rain, heavy, all night from 8pm, winds increasing to 50mph by midnight, rain and fog all day tomorrow. Great! Although we found a couple of just-about-possible pitch spots at the bealach, they were fully exposed to the wind, so that wouldn't do. My plans to set up the tent, have our dinner then head up one of the Deargs wouldn't be possible now. We decided to make the most of the currently dry weather and get the two of them done, then head down into Strath Beinn Dearg to find a more sheltered pitch.
Refreshing stream
36F038C4-D2D0-4C85-B1A9-0722E758A871_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Into the coire
48BB9256-E192-4222-86D4-AE04B467B8DC_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
5A09A1DF-28EC-4DEC-AB13-B2F4CE516BF8_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Beinn Dearg Bheag
4EA5B646-BB03-4263-A4D4-1C23B06A581E_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
We chose Beinn Dearg Mor first - it has an easier to follow path. We left the packs behind and did a quick up and down. Incidentally, there is a nice flat grassy pitch right at the summit, in case you have a still, sunny evening. We did see a pair of eagles launch themselves from the jaggy cliff just along from the summit - don't think I've seen a pair up that close before. Down we went, steeled ourselves and headed up Bheag. Being 80m smaller, this was a bit quicker, though the path is sketchy and as usual I managed to lose it coming down from the top. Reunited with our packs it was now about 8.30 and we needed to drop down to the Strath. The slopes are ok, grassy. The choice of pitch at the bottom was a bit disappointing and we settled for a somewhat tussocky spot beside the river. The wind was beginning to pick up strongly now as we tucked into our much belated Huel at 9.30. I thought we'd been dining late last Friday at 9.10 but we managed to beat it tonight. At least the midges were kept away by the wind. We retreated inside, read some of Withering Heights and had a dram before trying to sleep. By 10.15 the rain had started and went on most of the night, battering into the head end of the tent, which effectively banished sleep as far as I was concerned.
04A21287-DDF6-4AB2-9D8B-F915F7D8C322_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Summit Beinn Dearg Mor
257D5231-7D8C-4A3D-AC4E-CB8969006248_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
9DD31E92-5B88-4821-ACD9-237DF2FB05D5_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Eagles' perch (now vacated)
FA7D2313-C490-4118-BEB5-1C1689AC830F_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Beinn Dearg Bheag
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Al, on Flickr
9673099D-4155-4816-BB5D-F55C712A78CD_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Beinn Dearg Mor
49BE3A6A-0959-4744-94E8-00AE34A79498_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
We had a bit of a long lie on Saturday, and it was after 9.30am when we got going. Clag was down on the hills to about 500m but it stayed dry for us to get the tent packed up, which is always a bonus. Our aim today was the Chaisgeins then to head back along to Gleann na Muice to camp. To get to the Chaisgeins, we needed to either get over Cadhachan Riabhach or go around the north of it, along Loch Ghuibhsachain and join the track, which would be a long diversion. Going over involved ascending near the ravine from whence the outflow from Lochan na Bearta escapes - we'd looked at this from Beinn Dearg Bheag last night and it had looked very steep. However, it wasn't that bad as long as you pick your way around the crags and avoid the slabs. Pretty miserable going, in mist and drizzle, and there was the outflow to cross. I managed to jump across on boulders, but Allison took her tie putting on her water shoes. We pressed on into the mist and rain, following deer paths where we could see them. Lots of pools, bogs and frogs. As we headed west I realised there was a Simm, Creag-Mheal Mor just up to our right - after the disappointment of missing two last weekend I was determined to get this one. I suggested Allison hunker down behind a boulder whilst I went up and back. Had to shout to her on my return as there were so many big boulders on the valley floor I wouldn't have found her by sight. We decided just to have lunch before continuing on our wet plod.
Our route up to Loch na Bearta
F93604BD-1555-43CA-9518-64FE0986A154_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Loch na Bearta
4921D1CA-FC9C-4667-B220-615B8A1206FA by
Al, on Flickr
My route had taken us along Loch Toll a'Mhadaidh then to the dotted track that goes towards Chaisgein Beag, but I'd noticed on my Simm mission that this involved a fair bit of descent. We could just use the route I'd planned for return, over Frith-Mheallan as an out-and-back. This involved contouring around the crags at the south end of Loch Toll a'Mhadaidh, but was alright apart from the weather. Just as well I had my GPS to check our progress, as it was just grey shapes in mist for the afternoon. We hit the path then climbed the thankfully quite short route up to the top of Chaisgein Beag - the summit being a rocky outcrop near the trig column, not the trig itself. I checked the weather forecast - rain was to stop any minute now, dry the rest of the day and sunshine tomorrow. Only problem being no-one had told the rain it was meant to have stopped.
(Near the) summit of Chaisgein Beag
C4F44C22-342F-4AFF-A6F2-44220E63B86B by
Al, on Flickr
Back down to the path, back up Frith-Mheallan then onto the seemingly never ending gentle grassy slopes of Chaisgein Mor. My memories are of always doing this hill in clag, but on looking back at my reports, the first time was sunny and clear. That's memory for you. From the summit more interminable fog walking until we'd descended below the mist and could make out the welcome shapes of the lochans west of Ruadh-stac Mor. We'd summited Chaisgein at 5pm and I rather optimistically tight we'd be down and pitching by about 6pm...forgetting just how long the track back to Gleann na Muice actually is. Lots of watery holes along it, no other people. The rain did eventually end and we even got a glimmer of weak sunshine as we heaved our tired bodies along the track, past the impressive end of Beinn Dearg Mor and down to the Abhainn Gleann Muice. We spotted a little islet that had a flat grassy back and decided that would do fine for the night. By this time any breeze had departed and we were at the mercy of the midges as we tried to have our tea at the much more reasonable hour of 8pm.
Chaisgein Mor
99D9B1C2-72E4-4AE4-B0BC-2BE0201A9F32 by
Al, on Flickr
The Deargs again
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Al, on Flickr
C33CC8A4-9834-463A-9202-E5BC10D4ED89_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
A dry night, the river gurgling and rushing, broken sleep and a fairly early rise. Just Beinn a'Chlaidheimh to climb today...Id decided we would head south along Gleann na Muice, cross over the river and ascend to Loch a'Bhrisidh, joining the path up Chlaidheimh that is used on the circuit of the Six. However, the path along the river is rubbish and I decided to just start heading up the flanks of the hill, making a slow line for the outline of the lochan. This didn't please Allison very much with her love of paths, however crappy and she steadfastly refused to assist with suggestions about the line of ascent, saying she was enjoying my rather hopeless navigation round crags and we should, of course, have gone along the riverside then headed straight up into the coire. The things I have to put up with...
AC88B471-00CB-443D-861F-79C3C7B7BF2F_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
View towards Tarsuinn
33D2CBAB-ADD0-4C3F-95B5-2CC258D4C36D_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
3D69963E-99CE-4AB1-995C-86F36428FF54_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
52AD981B-9E75-4467-802B-90C16AA4590A_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
We did get to the coire/lochan in the fullness of time then contoured around the lochan to reach the faint path between Sgurr Ban and Chlaidheimh. We passed two girls in tee shirts and shorts, obviously out for the round of Six - didn't get a chance to ask whether they'd started at Shenavall or had come in from the road. They were going to get a grand day for the circuit, by the look of it. We made our tired way, ponderously, up to the summit then started the slow steep descent. We paused for lunch on the way down, once we'd reached flattish ground. Crossing the Abhainn Loch an Nid was easy today - despite yesterday's rain I could get across on stones without even getting my boots damp.
Loch a'Bhrisidh
DC739ED9-7130-47AC-B0BC-300EED4F0B9A_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
C604490B-7162-48DF-9451-6B388A0BA93F_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Beinn a'Chlaidheimh
D1880EFF-5448-478D-82DD-E27883158A60_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
198164D2-9F56-45E5-8461-0E4F71CC0BAF_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
0F8E2B58-2E65-41E7-9133-58E58C3B7AE7_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
7E274707-25A4-48CA-9821-F73B1CC76B46_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
From here it was just the 5 miles back along the track to Corrie Hallie. Full sunshine, heat and clegs, it was quarter past four by the time we got to the car and prepared for another long drive home. Quite a contrast to the heavy rain of last Sunday - we had glorious sunshine and a beautiful sunset tonight
7F13A42F-49E0-4D79-A1DD-F7BBEA288EC2 by
Al, on Flickr
