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Munros: Aonach Meadhoin, Sgurr a Bhealaich Dheirg, Saileg, Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe, Sgurr na Carnach, Sgur Fuaran.
Date: 21/08/2022.
Distance: 21km.
Ascent: 2180m.
Time taken: 11 hours, 20 minutes.
Weather: Early wind and prolonged showers followed by stiller, clearer conditions. Quite cool for August.
David suggested doing the entire skyline on the north side of Glen Shiel on Sunday - a bit left field after our discussions of a Graham or two in Moray, but seemed like a great idea! The weather forecast had not promised much for the weekend (especially out to the west) but a second reading of Sunday's prediction could be spun in a more positive way...
Having done this route a few years ago between the first and last buses from Inverness, I relished the idea of leaving a car at each end and not having to race against the clock. I didn't really race the clock on the drive over either, and as usual, by the time I met David in Morvich, I was 15 minutes late
.
East to west gives the least ascent and also means you are always looking out over the coast and inner Hebrides, so that was our preferred way to go. The Cluanie Inn have now tarmacked the traditional walkers carpark and built a cafe in it, accompanied by large 'hotel/cafe users only' signs. That seemed a bit off to me so I parked there anyway. It was getting on for 10am by the time we got walking and there were a couple of minor showers as we toiled up onto the first summit of Sgurr an Fhuarail. Despite the drifting showers, there were views back onto Loch Cluanie.
Showers over Aonach Air Chrith 
The way up 
Loch Cluanie 
Ciste Dubh from Sgurr an Fhuarail The sun popped out briefly before a much longer, heavier shower accompanied us over Aonach Meadhoin - yuck! I considered getting my waterproof trousers out but didn't, then regretted not putting them on as I got soaked through. Thankfully, by the time we were climbing up towards Sgurr a' Bhealaich Dearg, the rain had backed off again and the clouds cleared a bit. That made the short arete out to the summit cairn more straightforward.
Aonach Meadhoin and Sgurr a Bhealaich Dheirg 
David on Sgurr a Bhealaich Dheirg 
The weather picked up after that and while it was quite chilly for August, we had decent views for most of the rest of the day. After a short break, we continued onwards across Saileg and down to Bealach an Lapain. This is quite high but still the lowest point on the ridge, and the climb back up to Sgurr nan Spainteach starts steeply before crossing numerous false summits. Once you're there, it still isn't part of the traditional 5 Sisters view from Ratagain - this ridge is fairly long!
Back to Sgurr a Bhealaich Dheirg 
Gleann Lichd 
5 Sisters from Saileg 
Sgurr na Sgine and the Saddle The next section is one that can throw you if you aren't familiar with the ridge and the cloud is down - it certainly did to me on my first visit. The ridge divides in two for a short distance with a grassy hollow in the middle. The more northerly part is the one with the path, and this crosses a slippery slab before depositing you at the foot of the rocky pull up to Sgrr na Ciste Duibhe.
Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe 
Back to Sgurr nan Spainteach 
Sgurr na Carnach and Sgurr Fhuarain 
East up Glen Shiel The cloud came and went but looked much worse on the south side of the glen. We awarded ourselves another stop before carrying on to Sgurr na Carnach - some more 'pointless' up and down for David (who is only bagging Marilyns, and is therefore not bothered about the Munros which aren't!)
Saddle looking menacing 
Sgurr Mhic Bharraich and Loch Duich 
A glimpse of Loch Affric to the east Finally we had the last big ascent in front of us - Sgurr Fhuaran. A couple of summits further back we had spotted a pair of walkers approaching this from the east ridge above Gleann Lichd. Another ridge (along with the NE ridge of Sgurr a' Bhealaich Dearg that I keep saying I'll 'definitely do next time I'm up here') - we wondered if we might pass them but they must have dropped off to the west instead. Incredibly, this was the only time we saw other people on the entire walk.
Sgurr nan Spainteach and Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe 
David on Sgurr Fhuaran It was 6pm when we finally landed on Sgurr Fhurain. There had been some medium gusts earlier on but the wind dropped right down to nothing at this point and even though the cloud was down on the Black Cuillin out to the west there was a lovely atmosphere, with the odd bit of sun glinting off the sea behind Skye.
Onward to Sgurr nan Saighead 
Sgurr nan Saighead This might be the last of the 6 Munros of the day but there are more bumps and miles to cover. David had previously looked at dropping down the NW ridge straight to the floor of Glen Shiel but he hadn't been sure how best to cross the river at the bottom. No matter - we hadn't left the cars at the right place for this anyway, so it was onward to Sgurr nan Saighead (which David contoured the last 30m or so of) instead. Impressive slabs on the NE face here that can make you queasy to look down!
David on Sgurr nan Saighead 
Back to Sgurr Fhuaran 
Beinn Buidhe and Sgurr na Moraich 
Loch Duich and Skye I had made noises about also including Sgurr na Moraich (the first/last sister) but by the time we got close, just getting back to the road before dark was the main aim. In retrospect we should have crossed Beinn Bhuidhe and descended the back of Coire na Criche as the path there looks better than our alternative of going towards Sgurr an t-Searraich (this was also a good path high up but degenerated into bog further down the corrie). Never mind - we were eventually on the good stalkers path back to Morvich, although this seems to go on forever!
A sliver of Beinn Fhada 
Glenelg and Ratagain 
Raasay in the distanceIt was getting on for 9pm when we finally dropped down to Morvich. Midges were lurking, but a breeze by David's van kept them away long enough to sort our gear out. There was another quick gear sort at the Cluanie Inn then I set off home, finally arriving at 10:30pm. In the end we were out for about 2 hours longer than expected, but we were (just about) down before sunset! While this wasn't the best weather I've had on the hills this year, it was a great day out.
