free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
Warning - even longer report than usual for me!
After recent successful trip to Knoydart, it was a case of Fisherfield soon, or most likely it would have to wait another year. With a small spell of ok weather forecast, it was time to go for it, but how? Had looked at carving them up into smaller days, different routes of approach, camping and bothying (new word?
), but couldn't see an easy way to do it. The two days in Knoydart, were tough, but maybe they'd done a bit to up my fitness. It was time to find out, as I eventually decided it was to be an "in and back out" job
Even the night before I headed off for Ullapool, my mind was still churning through lots of options and outcomes, not all good, I might add. My hoped for safety net was to be the bothy, if the worst came to the worst. Enjoyed the drive up north. No one for company, but the same deliberations continued. Too late to take a tent now anyway
Soon got settled into the hostel and went to explore. Poor, expensive, fish supper from the Seaforth takeaway, in my opinion, but sampled a nice beer, or two here and there. Also, had a powercut in the Arch, to add to the fun, before making an early retiral to bed, although I didn't expect to sleep much. Some of my roommates were to ensure I was not to be disappointed and I was able to play my usual part in the farce
There had been a steady measure of noise before midnight, then a later arrival about 1am. Then the snorer started
You know the sound, a bit like a hacksaw on steroids! Now, I don't mind a little snoring. I snore myself now and again, but not the never ending, pathological type, that could waken the dead. By the sound from a few other bunks I was not the only one unimpressed.
- Enjoyed my stay in Ullapool.
Anyway, after a previous hellish, sleepless experience at Gerry's, I had vowed I would at least try to make the culprit aware of the problem, so after much "should I, shouldn't I's," I ambled over to the offending bunk and gave the guy on the bottom a few shakes, saying "you're snoring is very loud and disturbing others." As I did so, I became aware the snoring was continuing from the upper bunk, as the guy below, slowly stirred, opened his eyes and gave me a most puzzled look. Oooops!
Oh dear, quick apology, though not sure if the guy even heard it, but I persisted with a similar interruption to the guy in the top bunk. He briefly grunted, turned on his other side and continued the racket
I don't know how long I lay there fizzing, but then bit the bullet, got up, toilet, dressed and on the road for Corrie Hallie about 3am. A point of note, the deer near, or on the road from Braemore Junction onwards, was quite staggering and eventually I settled for 40mph max. As expected, there was no one around as I got my gear sorted, dug out a wee hand torch and got on my way. I had never started a walk at 0325 before ....... or anything like it
I soon found out one of the problems of walking in the dark. You can't see where you're going
Although I had been in this way once before, I wasn't far past the gate at the top of the start, when I became aware of apparent track to the left, track to the right. Mmmh? This could potentially be an expensive decision, if I get it wrong? Explored to the left and fortunately soon found it more, or less led to a cattle feeder. Ah well, back and see how other track works out. It worked out well, until I reached a river which crossed the road. Seemed worryingly deep. Didn't want to get feet wet at this stage. Dabbled around a bit with the torch and found what looked like muddy, worn track, which eventually led to a small bridge which crossed this water 20-30 yards away.
Really, really enjoyed the walk in under the stars, listening to flowing water, watching the heavens and the great feeling of total isolation, despite having to be cautious not to drift off the right road. The dawn started to reveal outlines of big hills, as the track started to wind its was down to the Abhainn Loch an Nid. I think it was about an hour and three quarters to here, but alas it was too dark to be sure where to cross, so I spent about 20 minutes, or so scanning up and down the river and just about kept the feet dry, getting over in the vicinity of the ruins on the map.
- Finally enough light to cross first river, the Abhainn Loch an Nid. Just about kept the socks dry 🙂
Deliberately tried to keep a slow pace, as I meandered up toward Beinn Chlaidheimh, knowing there was a long way to go. Stopped to fill bottle from burn to mix with some powdered, superhuman drink, or other and soon scoffed it
It is certainly a stiff climb up onto the ridge. Hurt myself when I stood on a big bin lid of a stone, to give me some purchase. Frighteningly, it shot out from under my feet and threw me on my back, landing heavily on my right arm. Ouch, but no real damage done. Enjoyed the sun rising over the Beinn Dearg hills and walk along the fine ridge, which gradually narrows on the longer than anticipated trek out to the summit, a mere three feet or, so from making the grade as a Munro. Awww!
- Route up Beinn a' Chlaidheimh, angled traverse right, lot steeper than it looks, early morning, i.e., 10 to six.
- Sunrise over Beinn Dearg hills.
Onwards to Sgurr Ban. Not hard to see why it's a Ban, with loads of white rock, big and small, to negotiate once past the wee lochans. Higher up, I passed the stone built shelter and seen more evidence of track, but lower down, I was just making my own way up. At the summit, things had turned a bit dark, windy and cloudy, especially over the next pair of Munros. Damn. Didn't want to see that and certainly hoped it would soon clear. For the most part my wishes were realised, keeping to the t-shirt all day, although at times I considered reaching for the gloves, or jacket.
- Beinn a' Chlaidheimh, to Loch na Sealga and An Teallach. Larachantivore just about visible on far side of river.
- Beinn Dear Mor. Larachantivore bothy on far side of river, if you know where to look 🙂
- Summit, Beinn a' Chlaidheimh, a Corbett, at 914m, but tougher than most of the Munros on this circuit.
- The route ahead. Tops of all the Munros just about visible.
The path up Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair looked very steep indeed, but I made good progress up the wee zig-zags of scree from the bealach and popped out at the summit, in 50 minutes or, so. Who said this Fisherfield is tough
This is the highest Munro of the bunch and affords great views in all directions, though it was a bit gray over Torridon way. As with most of these hills, the steep descent is at least as tough as the ascent, often scrambling, jumping from rock, to boulder, to scree and certainly no complaints were made by me, at the lure of taking the handy bypass across Meall Garbh.
- Beinn a' Chlaidheimh, from Sgurr Ban.
- Beinn Tarsuinn. Munro 3.
- Back to Sgurrr Ban, from Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair.
- Him again! Summit, Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair.
- Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair, #3, from Sgurr Ban.
A bit of a slog up the grassy slopes soon took me to the summit of Beinn Tarsuinn, another stunning viewpoint, out Gleann na Muice, by the eastern Munros to An Tealach and Beinn Dearg Mor, over to the last pair, south to the Torridon hills, etc, etc. And, then there's the Tennis Court. Not quite Wimbledon, but it would have to do. Alas, nobody in sight for a game, although I'd forgotten my racket anyway
- Beinn Eighe hills, beyond Slioch.
- Look back along first three summits.
- An Teallach from the far end.
- Admiring the view from Beinn Tarsuinn.
- Over to the Tennis Court and Letterewe Forest.
- Deuce!
Without any exact idea, I had estimated Beinn Tarsuinn, as my halfway spot and felt I was doing ok. Looking toward A' Mhaighdean, I began to wonder, as my eyes were drawn to the peat bogs way below, then long, grassy slopes leading to the next summit. Enjoyable wee stretch past the tennis court, then comes a very steep descent off the ridge. If I hadn't noticed tiredness in my legs by now, I soon was to, as I meandered round various soggy, boggy bits, to the bottom of the next climb. I made off for my first target, but soon decided I could do with some food and fluids, i.e., I needed a rest
- Some idea of the impressive peat bogs which lie ahead on the way to A'' Mhaighdean. Ruadh Stac Mor, looking impressive, too.
I think it would be fair to say, the occasional moment of self doubt may have entered my thinking, once I motivated myself to get going again, however after a steep slog the gradient gradually eases and now following track, I made good progress to the craggy, summit of A' Mhaighdean. Although it had become a bit gray, the views are quite sensational, but I wouldn't be wandering around blindly, with the eye in a camera viewfinder for too long
Yes, not too many spots can beat this!
- View across Fionn Loch and Loch Ewe.
- Down to the Dubh Loch.
- Pano NW.
- Back to 1st 4 tops from A' M.
As I had been doing, I checked in with a photo for the lads at home and felt heartened by their supportive words of encouragement. In fact, I had one or, two more emotional moments thereafter, thinking of the fact I was looking good to get round, all those who had helped get me to my current tally, the pure joy of the wilderness and all the other mush that goes through my heid
- Posing, A' Mhaidhean 🙂
- Across to Ruadh an Stac, last Munro, but not last climb
I was just about to head for Munro 5, Ruadh Stac Mor, when I spotted my first other human today, on its summit. Looked like he was heading my way, but subsequently he turned back and I later passed him, well down the glen. He had come in from Gruinard Bay and I was first person he had met in two days out here! Anyway, back to the traverse to No.5, which I was glad to do in decent weather. I imagine it could be quite easy to get lost on the rocky, rough ground at Poll Eadar dha Stac, the pass at the foot of Ruadh Stac Mòr. I certainly was a bit off track at times and didn't see the rough, stone bivouac shelter here ... or, if I did, I didn't realise it
I had seen the ascent route up the "gully," on my way over. It looks no bother, but is a bit loose and I made a bit of a meal of it, to be honest, looking for an easier bit, I think I took a harder bit! Still, it made for some excitement and looking back down, I was glad to have made it with no mistakes. Any accident, injury, or illness out here could potentially be very problematic, if assistance required. Having got up the gully the rock hopping resumes, as another steep boulderfield leads to the top. Again, most of way seemed DIY, i.e., not much of a trail, though I may have been off track again
- Quite a steep, wee ascent up from Poll Eadar dha Stac.
- Ruadh Stac Mòr, overlooking Fuar Loch Mòr.
I suppose there's little need to say the views here are superb, too but I'll say it. The perfectly shaped cone of Beinn Dearg Bheag and spectacular ridges of Beinn Dearg Mòr certainly catch the eye. So, that's all the Munro's done, but not time to count the chickens! My awareness of a niggling pain in my left knee was steadily begining to grow into more than a niggle, as I negotiated yet more boulders descending the NNW ridge. Even once onto the grassier slopes, there was still plenty of pain inducing, leaping across, round and over more boulders and steep drops which steadily must have been taking a toll on my knees, as I made for the gap between the two lochans.
- Beinn Dearg Bheag and Mor.
- Me, summit, Ruadh Stac Mòr, 918m. A Munro, just, but justly so.
- Me, Ruadh Stac Mor.
I then seemed to lose the trail again, or did I? Thought I had best find my way back on track, but only caused myself to have to go over some pretty awful ground and in retrospect regretted having been so fussy when it was uncalled for. Again, I'd say I kept to trail along the Allt Lochan a'Bhragdad a bit longer than I probably ought, though eventually spotted the Clach na Frithealaidh and the excellent stalkers path which takes one down Gleann na Muice Beag, Ghleann na Muice and onward past a few bogy bits to Larachantivore.
- Way down between the lochans, then branch left. Wouldn't be too obsessive about keeping to exact route here.
- Beinn Dearg Bheag.
- Way out, down Gleann na Muice Beag.
- The Forge. Get yer teeth into that! 🙂
- Another view of An Teallach. Shenavall, just about visible if you know where to look 🙂
By now my right knee was aching too. Seeing Shenavall, in the far distance didn't help much
The river at Larachantivore, didn't look crossable without getting the feet wet, but I was in no mood for taking longer diversions, or searching up and down for the perfect place to cross, so it was of with the boots and on with a light pair of "beach" shoes, I'd thrown in rucksack. Hint! If trying such a measure, I'd suggest something more like an old pair of trainers, with a slightly sturdier sole than I was equipped with - those stones fair hurt through my unprotective soles!
- Abhainn Ghleann na Muice. 2nd river crossing. Boots off!
- Larachantivore.
Anyway, I decided to keep them on knowing some bogs might lie ahead. No hope! Bogs will definitely lie ahead, as I soon found out. Seemed to find bit of a trail, but it came and went, then took several knee deep plunges and don't think the extraction process helped my knees one bit
On reaching the river again, it appeared to me to be the deepest of all 3 crossings. More sore tootsies till back on dry land. Boots back on then made for a wee look at Senavall, though didn't poke my nose in.
- Where else?
By now both knees pretty much in constant pain, as I pondered back to all the rock hopping on steep descents, wondering how much old football injuries might be to blame and hoping this wouldn't signal end of walking days, etc, etc. It was a pretty tortuous ascent up from Shenavall, but must thank couple of foreigners who kindly stopped and gave me a strong dose of Brufen, but it never touched me. Thereafter met about a dozen folk heading for Shenavall and mused as to how many it would take?
- Looking back over Shenavall, toward Beinn Dearg Mor. Crippling climb up with aching knees.
Eventually made it to the track back out. Descending was no fun either, but the knowledge of the approaching finishing line helped me along and made it back to car, not long before 8pm, as dusk was coming in. Relieved in many ways, but also well chuffed to have made it round in the one unforgettable day, long though it was.
Back to the hostel in Ullapool, then and not for the first time my mind turned to my mistaken ID the previous night, wondering whether I'd be facing an ambush from the pair I'd awakened through the night
As it was, both had moved on, so no need to make explanations, apologies, or search for new accommodation
Had a brilliant shower, some grub and a beer before hitting town. Don't know whether I was just too spent, had too much exhilaration for one day, or what, but after a pint I retired to bed. Slept much better and enjoyed a lovely, leisurely drive home the next day, well pleased at my hike and knowing I might manage to get my last Munro, Ben More, Mull, done this year?
Rough schedule -
Start 0324
To 1st River 1hr 44
Across 1st river, 2hrs 4m
To Beinn a' Chlaidheimh 4hrs
B a'C to SB 1hr 30m
SB to MCMF 50m
MCMF to BT 1.25hrs
BT to A'M. 2.2hrs
A'M to RSM 1.25hrs
RSM to 2nd river crossing 2.4hrs
2nd river crossing to crossed 3rd river 0.7hrs
Crossed 3rd river to road in/out 1.6hrs
Road in/out to finish 0.75hrs
Total 16.5hrs, therfore halfway for me was roughly around the bealach betwwen BT and A'M
For anyone who kept on to the end of this report - well done! Admittedly, it was also a long walk
