A Nation Mourns

[weaselmaster]

This week's writing has both a sombre and a slightly delirious component, given current events. Firstly, for those reader who were concerned about the possibility of me having Lyme disease ("Tired in Torridon") I can report that I did seek out my GP on Thursday to report said concerns. He wasn't a believer in testing for Lyme (tests take an age to come back and aren't conclusive) but did suggest that I take the standard treatment and return to see him if symptoms persist. So it's 3 weeks of Doxy for me and a heartfelt thank you to medical pragmatism.

Anyway, we needed to be back a bit early on Sunday as I was heading through to my mum's on Sunday night to take her up to Inverness on Monday morning, so I looked around at possible summits for us a couple hours away from home. Ben Sgulaird has been on the books for a while, being one of the dozen Munros I have left - we could combine that with Creach Bheinn. For Allison, there was Cruachan plus tops and maybe Beinn a'Chochuill/Eunaich for a quickish pair on Sunday. She has 40 left and almost all are in the lowlands (well, south of the Great Glen). We could drive up to Druimnavuic way on Thursday night ready for Sgulaird in the morning. I'd heard that the Queen was not doing well, family gathered around etc before I left and suspected she was very soon to die.

We headed up to a wee spot we've used before near Creagan, hoping to pitch by the parking area. Another tent was already there! Shock...We'd had a look around before and I couldn't remember any other pitches nearby...damn. So we sat and ate a frugal meal of soup and bread and thought what to do. Some skulking about in the twilight found us a perfectly serviceable spot in the trees. Surprisingly the midges were absent. I checked my phone before we left the car and saw that the Queen had indeed just died, or at least her death had just been announced. I'm no Royalist, but I will admit to a grudging respect for the effort and workload HM put into her long, long royal role. And she's been Queen forever - well from 10 years before I was born.
We got the tent up, settled down to read some more of Wuthering Heights and I did feel a bit sad.

2022-09-09_1011 Raw.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

Friday seemed a reasonable day - we packed the tent away - dry, no midges - and set off quite late for the usual path up Sgulaird. This was day two of taking Doxy, and I was relieved to see I had none of the usual antibiotic side effects, at least so far. My energy levels also felt a bit raised. On the way up the track we discussed various things Royal. Allison is an out-and-out abolitionist and has no truck with any of them. I felt a bit sorry for Charles, having to wait almost all his life to take up the throne. We discussed Kings and their descriptive names - do they get to choose them themselves? Like Richard the Lionheart...did William the Conker really name himself after a chestnut seed? And did Ethelred the Unready show a disarming degree of self awareness? Charles could, of course, be King Charles the Spaniel, which trips off the tongue. However I felt that he should be a bit more dramatic. After all, he doesn't have that many years to reign, in all probability, and the monarchy may well be dismantled after he goes. So why not burn out in a blaze of glory? As this country is steadily getting more Medieval in its laws, healthcare and politics, maybe he should revert to the old time Power of Kings. I'd ditch the poxy "Charles the III" tag and go for "Black" Charles the Executioner instead. One of his first acts could be to lop the head off Fat Boris, the Odious Buffoon, who likely contributed significantly to his mother's sudden demise. Change the nation's flag to a black standard with a skull and crossbones - yeah the Jolly Rodger type thingy. Change the national anthem to something doom metal-y (like Sunn 0))) ) - or if something upbeat was required, there's a catchy number by Lunge called "Off with their Heads" which might fill the spot. Can you imagine our victorious athletes at the Olympics or whatever, going up to get their medals and the black flag being raised, with ear-splitting doom music accompanying? I could almost consider myself British for a wee while 😂

5680083D-2738-4C06-AB10-B1E2381E9AC1_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

We progressed a bit further up the track, Allison pleading me not to make her laugh as her ribs were hurting from fighting with the wind last week (she says) or yoga (I think). I did suggest that - in my soon to be confirmed role as Lord Summerisle (see last week) I could be of assistance to Black Charles in all manner of things...By this time we'd got onto the up and downy bit of the hills leading up to Sgulaird itself. We last did the hill this way back in 2013 and I remembered thinking what a bugger of a hill it was, with all these ups and downs before the summit - now, after years of Simms and god knows all what, it seemed a merry wheeze. In the bealach before Meall Garbh there was a party of stalkers, maybe about a dozen. I asked if we were in their way but they were friendly enough, telling us to enjoy our walk. One of the perks of Royal Advisor would clearly have to be a charter from the Monarch to roam anywhere, at any time. Be useful too for bagging these Marilyns on MOD property...

D74578DD-3E11-4FC2-93C7-56CC7002A7AC_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Creach Bheinn
0D388B0A-8BBC-4949-A229-D7657126CC29_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

9415CBE1-6081-49A0-8C5F-DF8D208D9B69_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Our time to the summit of Sgulaird itself was unremarkable, though the wind was quite fierce at the top. I wasn't quite sure how to get to Creach Bheinn from here, as some sections of the SW flank of Sgulaird are steep and craggy, but we found a clear path leading off, albeit then disappeared into a maze of deer tracks, but it took us easily to the high point of the track (that would be "mam"). We were able to ascend Creach Bheinn by the standard route after that. It always takes longer to get to the summit of that hill than you think it's going to. Views were good though. We traipsed back to the track and made our descent a bit later than intended - it was after 7 when we returned to the car. Unsure of where to camp if we headed towards Cruachan, we returned to the spot we'd used the night before, which was surprisingly vacant and had a quiet night, with the odd woodpecker and owl keeping us company. I checked my phone for news in the morning and shouted to Allison that Boris had been executed. She almost believed me for a moment, before telling me I was an arse...

Sgulaird
F6332C0B-959B-46BD-BB5A-FA9DF8D8CD26_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Creach Bheinn
AA62E6B6-DA7F-40A7-8430-7D50D5B364F9_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

5FEF1EB8-5297-46D4-B251-7221672045C5_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

72AD0C95-6152-4B3A-A2E8-79AD75188822_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

A3BA1589-A6C8-41EC-8AAB-32DA4157C4E5_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

A953B507-C20D-4400-9102-F33D02269755_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

4DFFED90-95D3-4536-B277-BBE4AC2F424B by Al, on Flickr

2022-09-10_0934 Raw.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

Saturday was forecast to be a great day, nice for the circuit of Cruachan. It's been a while since we were here, and today we planned to do the five Tops as well as the Corbett of Beinn a'Bhuiridh. There were a lot of cars parked along the road by the station when we arrived at the back of 9, we knew it would be a busy hill today. I'd forgotten just how immediate and steep the track up through the trees is - just as well I'm on my pills now😏. We reached the dam, starting to fry in the hot sun and annoyed that a)I'd left my Tilley hat in the car - no shade for neck and ears and b)Allison had forgotten to pack the sunscreen. Where has the ladder gone? There used to be a steep ladder to be climbed to reach the top of the dam, but it's been replaced by flights of steps. Certainly easier of you have a dog with you, but not as exciting...

You used to have to climb up this...
ladder by Al, on Flickr

8A1AED96-2F75-407C-8537-B8D1D9A7E15E_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr


We met with a couple of women and their collie, who plucked up a clump of grass to use as a ball, and kept dropping it at our feet waiting for us to throw it. It didn't go very far, not being either heavy enough or aerodynamic, but the dog didn't seem to mind. Then it was up into Coire Dearg, stopping to fill up our water supply in the stream and putting a soaked Buff on my head - wonderful way to cool down. Meall Cuanail was first, and we stopped to have lunch at the top, watching lots of folk heading up (and down) from Cruachan. It's quite a way from the bealach - 350m...I'd forgotten just how high a mountain Cruachan is - makes Starav seem almost little by comparison. From the summit we headed out to Stob Dearg, which both of us needed for second round of Tops - there are some little scramble bits if you want going between these two. And great views from the top, better than from Cruachan itself I think.

FA5CF048-3C1D-4FD2-A28A-186FE3B90121_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Cuanail
1B35EAB9-23D9-4C6A-8800-BEB949E0A145_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Cruachan and Stob Dearg
4AE3AD6F-846C-4B7C-A7B3-BCD04DB4E573_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Beinn a'Bhuiridh
EF7408FA-59C7-4951-9F2E-AEE27502A2CD_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Dearg
4BF5A3C7-8702-43D6-A533-CF0BD0DB3ED2_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Trilleachan in the backdrop
3E78A0F0-280A-4893-973E-70DB9EAC4A49_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

3E0B2190-C743-4021-A2FA-8C1BA7A34246_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

A77E0968-7FCA-4626-84EE-BB75BFBB1593_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

A125B403-E902-45A1-B48D-270D88AC8995_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr


Back to Cruachan, where there were about half a dozen others and along the slabs ridge to Drochaid Ghlas. Very hot, but sometimes clouds came along and shielded us from the worst of the sun. Then down to the bealach with Stob Daimh - weird to think of the tunnel running under our feet. It was another out and back to Sron an Isean from here, which was easier than I remembered it (first time I'd done it in snow). Back to Daimh and onwards to the last Top, Stob Garbh. I was getting tired now - a combination of poor sleep, a lot of ascent yesterday and today and the sun. We had the sting in the tail of the steep climb up to Beinn a'Bhuiridh to go. I insisted we sit down at Lairig Torran so I could eat the last of my provisions, a Trek Bar. This seemed to energise me enough to get up to the top of the Corbett and sustain my weary legs for the walk out. We didn't fancy the descent straight off Beinn a'Bhuiridh's west side, having done it twice before, so we went back to Lairig Torran and followed the standard path out. T'was gone 8 when we got back to the car, the last off the mountain. Now the issue was where to camp...
B986ADA2-D79E-4CA4-88E3-415D7025D6A4_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

71F6A55A-81F1-4B03-A816-C391734D2B67_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

3D7D76F6-2B25-4BF0-AFC3-D5A5EED3A648_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

3BC9346B-38A4-4214-AB3A-255B91E6756E_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Down to Isean
728CC93A-123A-4BE3-9C57-8E918FA7A442_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

8398B523-5A60-4AEB-B90A-AE1269BC1CB9_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Daimh
58C9A5E6-84CE-4719-A881-15BD0CBD37FB_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Beinn a'Bhuiridh summit
0B70B877-6F09-4F26-A11B-FDD2D0A69882_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

923351D2-BEA0-4C39-B3D0-46325D4061FA by Al, on Flickr

We ended up heading to Kilchurn Castle, where the large car park is a motorhome overnighter spot. The grounds around the castle forbid camping, but there is a wee spot under the railway bridge that just did the trick, although it was a bit noisy, especially when a train went overhead😂. But it did for the night - we'd have to be up early-sh the next day anyhow.

2022-09-11_0802 Raw.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

Sunday was cooler and the clouds were down on the hill tops. We drove the couple of miles to the farm track that starts the route up Eunuch & a'Chochuill. First ones there today! This would be a straightforward WH route for the two Munros, nothing fancy. We marched up the track, choosing to do Beinn a'Chochuill first. We entered the clag around 750m and that meant no views for the rest of the day. The wind was also surprisingly strong and cold up top compared with the almost balmy temperature in the glen. Gloves were required. We met a couple coming the opposite way, around halfway between the two peaks. Stopped near the rocky top of Eunaich for lunch in the shelter of some rocks then followed the good path all the way back down. Thank god for paths when the visibility is poor - one of the real perks of these Munro things. Back at the car in 5 hours 20 - WH time is 5.5 -6.5 hours. Good to know that I'm not quite as slow as I have been recently...how long does it take Doxy to work again???

Chochuill...
509B8896-89F6-4C4A-9455-85A52094309B_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Eunaich
CDC14F4C-4C40-4CD9-905C-24DAD23158FF_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

CB68B604-B4BC-42DD-9A15-3AC58BC6585F by Al, on Flickr
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[gaffr]

Nice report of an interesting area that I have not been to in many years. On our first visit we took in the Finlay's hill as well of the only ever visit to that fairly remote hill.
For any connections with the Monarchy these probably ended on account of the World War two when my father ended up in a hole in the French soil in a Commonwealth War grave. My mother remarried and a fresh start was made for us in Scotland with a new name and identity.
When around ten years old as primary school pupil in Edinburgh one day there was chatter amongst the children in the corridor movement that the 'King was deid'. Not much connection with that event when a year later there was a coronation. We had no television at the time so not much involved as a citizen for that. A little later in the year there we were taken to a cinema for a screening of the event along with several schools in our local area however at a similar time there was a screening for the same school pupils of the visit to the top of the world's highest peak. The two screenings kind-of merged.
I have always idled about the Civil War that became a military dictatorship at a time of much turmoil in the Islands and we ended up with what we have today. The opportunity was seized and I guess that we have what we have now. Maybe a industrial sized Monarchy that appears to satisfy what the majority want to have as a system of Government though it would perhaps be much more that just a wee weekly visit of the current Prime minister to have a chat about things with the Monarch of the time.?

[R1ggered]

Great report, and very balanced views on recent events.