walkhighlands

Share your personal walking route experiences in Scotland, and comment on other peoples' reports.
Warning Please note that hillwalking when there is snow lying requires an ice-axe, crampons and the knowledge, experience and skill to use them correctly. Summer routes may not be viable or appropriate in winter. See winter information on our skills and safety pages for more information.

Summer of 22 (Chapter 6) - Cheesecake's aff!

Summer of 22 (Chapter 6) - Cheesecake's aff!


Postby Graeme D » Wed Sep 14, 2022 9:49 pm

Corbetts included on this walk: Sgùrr na Feartaig

Date walked: 23/07/2022

Time taken: 5.7 hours

Distance: 13 km

Ascent: 1030m

4 people think this report is great.
Register or Login
free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).

Taken a while to churn this report out and now I can scarcely believe it's been nearly two months......... :crazy:

Having been out on the road/in the hills since the Monday, the Saturday was probably going to be my last day before heading home. Whether I headed home straight after Saturday's hills or camped somewhere and drove back south on the Sunday wasn't yet decided. There was always the option of breaking the journey home with a small hill walk somewhere but I always suspected that by the time Saturday evening rolled round, I would be ready for home (not to mention a good shower and a proper bed). The 90 minutes of purgatory between the Bealach Bearnais and Bearnais Bothy on the Friday late afternoon/early evening had gone a long way towards cementing this line of thinking, but what settled it was Luna. She had been fine on the Friday on the 10 hours it took to walk from Craig and loop round over the Munros of Sgurr Choinnich and Sgurr a'Chaorachain before heading for Bearnais Bothy. In fact she had been fine all week - no sign of anything untoward during or after any of our walks. She had done a load of mileage and ascent and had clearly been very tired after each day, but had been sleeping well at night, eating normally, peeing and pooing normally e.t.c. But from the moment we reached the bothy she wasn't right. She was very out of sorts and was doing a lot of "coughing" without actually bringing anything up. She moped around for the whole evening while Kev and I emptied the bottle of champagne and polished off half a dozen beers. I wasn't unduly worried but was a little concerned. Apart from anything else, we were in a remote bothy, very remote, and whichever way we looked at it, we had a big walk on our hands to get back to the car at Craig. I had serious doubts about the wisdom of taking her over Cheesecake and Lurg Mhor tomorrow and then having to haul ourselves all the way back to Craig after that! I looked at the map, then looked at it again, and then looked at it a bit more. Like I said, whichever way and how many times I looked at it, we had a lengthy walk in store tomorrow and Luna was not at all on form! In the end I called it a night and Luna jumped up onto the sleeping platform and made herself comfortable by squeezing in between my legs. Can't say I was particularly comfortable but hey ho, there you go! We would see what the morning brought!

She seemed a bit more settled in the morning but I couldn't take the risk of walking away from the car over two of the remotest Munros in the land and only then start to think about getting back to the car. I'd happily have been up for that myself, but wasn't prepared to take the risk with Luna. I apologised to Kev for bailing and ruefully stood at the door and watched as he headed off towards the start of his ascent of Cheesecake, gradually becoming a smaller and fainter dot on the vast, remote landscape, before finally merging seamlessly into it.

I returned to the bothy, gathered the last of my gear together, gave the place the once over with the broom and gave Luna a rousing and motivational team talk. Then we headed out and around the back of the bothy and up the broad, heathery slopes to pick up the western end of the long summit ridge of Sgurr na Feartaig where it meanders eastwards from Baobh-bhacan Dubha. This was our chosen route home. The descent from the Bealach Bhearnais was still a vivid scar on my recent memory and the thought of repeating it but this time in reverse a little over 12 hours later did not even merit a second thought. By comparison, the route home over Sgurr na Feartaig looked a much more appealing prospect. More ascent and descent involved but more direct, undoubtedly more scenic and without a repeat of the horror show of yesterday afternoon in reverse.

Height was quickly gained and we were soon up onto flatter, stonier, easier ground with sweeping views southwards behind us. Luna appeared to be a lot happier this morning and was suffering no ill effects from her exertions so far.

IMG_2964.JPG
South across Loch an Laoigh towards Beinn Dronaig and the Killilan Forest hills beyond - Bearnais Bothy visible in the foreground and Bendronaig Lodge just visible beyond the loch

IMG_2969.JPG
Fuar Tholl and friends across Baobh-bhacan Dubha

IMG_2972.JPG
Loch Carron and Skye across the Inner Sound

IMG_2973.JPG
Some locals up ahead on the 805m spot

Slowly but surely I was leaving the bitter disappointment of earlier in the morning behind me. Reassured by a much happier looking Luna, and excited by the early glimpses of promise that the winding ridge of Sgurr na Feartaig was affording, I gave very few wistful glances back in the direction of Cheescake and Lurg Mhor. Like other missed targets before them, they remained a future prospect to be planned for anew and savoured when their time finally comes.

East of the 805m point, Sgurr na Feartaig really comes into her own and it was now clear that I was going to be ending my 6 day tour with a real belter. The ridge dips, twists and climbs through a narrow neck before making the final pull up the remarkably well preserved grassy track tp pass just north west of the summit.

IMG_2981.JPG
East towards the summit with the Streangan nan Aon Pacan-deug ridge of Sgurr Coinnich beyond

IMG_2984.JPG
Looking back west to the sandstone monoliths of the Coulin Forest

IMG_2989.JPG
Luna is a fan of this route too!

IMG_2991.JPG
Is she still wondering where Kev has got to?

IMG_2993.JPG
The western arm of Beinn Tharsuinn and Loch an Laoigh across the scene of a recent horror show

IMG_2995.JPG
Looking back across the head of Coire nan Each to the western part of the ridge

Eventually the final summit of the week (and my first Corbett of the week) was conquered. A bitterly disappointing day had turned into an excellent one and a fitting finale to my 6 days living my best life in the mountains of the NW Highlands.

IMG_3000.JPG
Beinn Tharsuinn - The Transverse Hill

IMG_3001.JPG
Across the Bealach Bhearnais to Sgurr Choinnich and Sgurr na Conbhaire with the very western end of Loch Monar just about visible below Lurg Mhor

IMG_3003.JPG
Sgurr nan Ceannaichean and Moruisg from the substantial summit cairn

IMG_3004.JPG
Beinn Tharsuinn showing why it's The Transverse Hill with Cheescake lurking in the low cloud behind

IMG_3008.JPG
Lurg Mhor now getting into the frame as well

IMG_3009.JPG
Yesterday's Munros

IMG_3010.JPG
And again with Maoile Lunndaidh showing to the left

Summit views enjoyed, it was time to drop north to regain the grassy track that leads down to Loch Sgurr na Feartaig, and regrettably (on my part at least), head for home.

IMG_3011.JPG
Loch Sgurr na Feartaig

IMG_3014.JPG
Coulin Forest and Torridon

IMG_3019.JPG
Coinnich and Chaorachain across Loch Sgurr na Feartaig

IMG_3020.JPG
Back to the Corbett summit

IMG_3021.JPG
East between Sgurr nan Ceannaichean and Maoile Lunndaidh towards Glenuaig Lodge

IMG_3022.JPG
Sgurr nan Ceannaichean and Moruisg bringing back fond memories of walking with Bruce and John - Beinn na Feusaige and Loch Sgamhain in the distance

IMG_3025.JPG
Lunndaidh, Chaorachain and Coinnich

IMG_3026.JPG
View east now right into Gleann Fhiodhaig

Beyond the broad flat area around the 819m point, the north ridge of Sgurr na Feartaig drops more steeply to rejoin the inward track near a little hydro dam on the Allt a'Chonais.

IMG_3028.JPG
What a beautiful looking road home!

IMG_3029.JPG
Moruisg and Sgurr nan Ceannaichean

IMG_3031.JPG
Maoile Lunndaidh and Sgurr a'Chaorachain

IMG_3032.JPG
Sgurr nan Ceannaichean and Maoile Lunndaidh

IMG_3033.JPG
You cannae pass a bonnie wee lochan like this without taking a picture

IMG_3034.JPG
Sgurr a'Chaorachain and the eastern cliffs of Sgurr na Feartaig from the lochan

IMG_3036.JPG
Looking down to Pollan Buidhe and the steep western face of Sgurr nan Ceannaichean

IMG_3037.JPG
Across Glen Carron to the Coulin Forest and Torridonian peaks

IMG_3038.JPG
Back to the eastern crags of Sgurr na Feartaig

IMG_3039.JPG
The former Munro looking very fine

The twisting, descending path (which after 6 consecutive long hill days was creating merry hell in my knees!), soon spat me out by the little dam with the sign warning against any attempt to cross the dam. I sized up the prospect but decided that at this stage in proceedings I should probably do as advised and head the short distance upstream to the bridge, where a sign warns potential users of said bridge that they do so at their own risk. Well yes, quite. Danger of Death may have been a more suitable warning. It was definitely one of the more "interesting" structures designed for the crossing of water courses that I have experienced. And once safely over, the tight squeeze between the two tree trunks forming the bridge support is not one that you'd want to take on after a session on the pies! :shock:

IMG_3041.JPG
Luna is well up for crossing here

IMG_3042.JPG
The Bridge of Doom!

IMG_3043.JPG
Do not attempt a crossing here after consuming large quantities of pies!

Once safely across and squeezed through the tight gap between the trees, I picked my way up rough ground and onto the track that led us back to the car at Craig. That last few kilometres of weary, leg-sore tramping along a track in the knowledge that you are in the dying moments of a 6 day hill pass is always a bitter sweet experience - the freedom of the previous week is almost over but the prospect of a warm shower, a proper bed and a truly cold beer goes a long way to offsetting that.

Back at the car, Luna inhaled her dinner while I contacted base camp to report I was coming in. Another summer holiday tour was all over bar the shouting. The disappointment of missing out on Cheescake and Lurg Mhor had been all but forgotten about. I had doubled my Munro count for the year and taken my annual count to a level that I had not come close to for many a year. The target I had set of 22 new Munros in 2022 still seemed improbable, especially given my unexpected change of plans today, but it's just an arbitrary target within an arbitrary timeframe. Who cares!? Not me. I'm just loving the journey through the hills, those of all classifications and those of none. Long may the journey continue. :D


our_route.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

User avatar
Graeme D
 
Posts: 4013
Munros:251   Corbetts:125
Fionas:76   Donalds:22
Sub 2000:62   Hewitts:36
Wainwrights:28   Islands:6
Joined: Oct 17, 2008
Location: Perth

Re: Summer of 22 (Chapter 6) - Cheesecake's aff!

Postby gammy leg walker » Thu Sep 15, 2022 8:46 pm

Looking forward to finally meeting Luna this weekend
User avatar
gammy leg walker
Munro compleatist
 
Posts: 3472
Munros:282   Corbetts:7
Fionas:4   Donalds:3+0
Sub 2000:2   
Islands:7
Joined: Jan 30, 2010
Location: Central Region
Walk wish-list

Re: Summer of 22 (Chapter 6) - Cheesecake's aff!

Postby Mountainlove » Sun Sep 18, 2022 10:00 am

Great ending for a day like that, but much better decision considering Luna! Something you will look back to when you climb Cheesecake in the future :D
User avatar
Mountainlove
Munro compleatist
 
Posts: 1352
Munros:90   Corbetts:55
Fionas:7   Donalds:10
Sub 2000:3   
Islands:10
Joined: Feb 2, 2010
Location: North Ayrshire

Re: Summer of 22 (Chapter 6) - Cheesecake's aff!

Postby kevsbald » Sat Sep 24, 2022 10:10 pm

Great decision; health is always more important, particularly for our best friends, 4- or 2-legged!
User avatar
kevsbald
Munro compleatist
 
Posts: 2254
Munros:278   Corbetts:134
Fionas:82   Donalds:53
Sub 2000:17   Hewitts:17
Wainwrights:29   
Joined: Jan 15, 2009
Location: Glasgow

Re: Summer of 22 (Chapter 6) - Cheesecake's aff!

Postby past my sell by date » Sun Sep 25, 2022 4:06 pm

I did Lurgi and Cheesescake from the Bearnais bothy. We had an early dinner at Strathcarron , walked the easy path to the bothy 2.5hrs or so in the evening without any cooking equipment, and set out next morning before 7. we carried on beyond Lurgi before descending - when it would have been better to have retraced our steps back West - and had a very long hot walk back to Achintee (about 18k I think. :( ) However I can thoroughly recommend the route and the lightweight approach
past my sell by date
Mountaineer
 
Posts: 1074
Munros:282   Corbetts:86
Fionas:27   Donalds:6
Sub 2000:8   Hewitts:146
Wainwrights:159   Islands:5
Joined: Apr 24, 2013

4 people think this report is great.
Register or Login
free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).




Can you help support Walkhighlands?


Our forum is free from adverts - your generosity keeps it running.
Can you help support Walkhighlands and this community by donating by direct debit?



Return to Walk reports - Scotland

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: CalPoppa, Hills4dogs and 49 guests