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What can only be described as the most perfect day in the mountains required started with a plan I made a number of months ago. A weekend trip to Moidart with a high camp, completion of the Rois-bheinn round from Alisary, followed by a snorkel around Samalaman Island.
Planned for a weekend a number of months ago, I had looked forward to planned trip all week only to discover that the forecast of sunshine was replaced by rain that exact weekend.
I ended up choosing a different mountain that weekend and a number of months passed. Another long weekend in Arisaig was on the horizon and even though the days would have been perfect, my other half did not fancy an overnighter in the mountains (fair enough) . Instead we had some marvelous time snorkeling around the islands of An Glas-eilean and Samalaman Island.
However the 'call of the mountains was strong' as every time I popped my head out of the water, An Stac and Rois Bheinn seemed to be calling for me and the urge to climb them grew stronger every day.
- Around Arisaig, I love the view!
- The hills from An Glas-eilean
- The kelp forest below the water
- Samalaman Island
Back home the saying 'The mountains are calling and I must go' became incredible strong. Checking the forecast I
could not believe my luck when next weekend weather forecast looked favorable. There was nothing which would stop me from going this time.
On Friday I set off after work and camped in Glen Etive. It was a beautiful night lid up by a bright moon and I had
a restful sleep. Packing my gear during the next morning I continued north towards Moidart.
Just before 11 am I arrived at the lay by and once I had shouldered my gear I walked the short distance along the
road to the gate which marked the start of the path. My plan was to walk up towards Coire na Cnamh, set up camp and then climb the 3 Corbetts, stay the night and walk back during the next morning.
- Looking back at the gate and road
I crossed the metal gate and walked along a wide path, which lead towards some small buildings. A sheep dog barking madly raced towards me. I stood still, let the dog sniff and was pleased when my command 'of you go' seemed to work. The dog bounced forwards and I was able to follow him towards another gate. Right behind the next gate stood a goat and eyed me up. Next to the gate within a fenced area another large dog was going insane and started barking angrily when I approached.
Oh dear!
Next to the gate I made out a sign informing me it was a guard dog for livestock.Trying to calm the dog (not possible) I ended up ignoring him and and tried to get through the gate.
Well I tried as the goat on the other side had not run away as I expected. Instead the goat seemed rather excited
about the fact that I wanted to open the gate. With a madly barking dog on one side, the other dog on my other side
and a goat in front, I opened the gate a bit, just wide enough to squeeze through, while trying to shoo the goat
away and at the same time not let the first dog through.
Have you ever tried to battle with a stubborn goat and a determined dog at the same time?
I just had managed to squeeze my way through the gate, when the goat, seizing its opportunity, charged forward and and the the split second when I wanted to close the gate, managed to put its head through the last remaining gap of the open gate.
It was now a battle between me the goat and dog.All topped by the guard dog that was going more and more insane. I wasn't even 10 min into the walk and had caused chaos!!!
I was still holding onto the gate for dear life when I heard a voice. I looked up, lost my concentration and the goat, sizing victory squeezed by me and ran to freedom, while the dog charged through the other way.
OMG I made a total mess. The voice belonged to the owner, who (thankfully not mad) explained that the goat was a
pet goat and that it was no problem that I set it free. I still felt soo sorry, but was relieved that the owner had made a fuss. I certainly made a mental note to climb gates with goats on the other side in future!
I was then able to continue the path (head still hung low in shame) and the lovely women even pointed out the
faint path, which I had just walked by and would have certainly missed after all that excitement.
I followed the path which was the starting point through the forest. The path continued along a deer fence along the right hand side of the burn. A small wooden gate came into view, which I crossed and continued steeply up the forest.
- The small gate and walk ahead
It was warm and carrying a heavy backpack and I was sweating buckets...much to the delight of hundreds of deer
kegs. I have never seen them in such numbers and they started landed on my face, hair and clothes - a dozen of
them at the same time. Crawling into my ears and eyes I was driven insane.
Each time I stopped the attackers seemed to multiply and so I walked on, cursing and trying to scrape them off my face. The sheer numbers only stopped once left the forest and entered the open hill side. Thank goodness or that! The path very faint but existing continued steeply up the hill side.
I was now finally able to stop, take a breather and marvel at the views, which had opened up and showed a wonderful
panorama over the small isles. I sat down for a while to remove the last remaining deer kegs from my body and hair.
- Stunning views further up the hill
Continuing along the path, it lead up towards a seemingly endless stone wall. The ground was anything but easy and rather steep, but since I had literally until 8 pm (sunset) I took my time, had lots of breaks and simply enjoyed
the views which turned better and better the higher I climbed.
- The long walk up, but you simply need to follow the stone wall
I reached Coire na Cnamh just over 2 hours after and started to look around for a perfect camp spot. Dreading
midges I looked for something exposed, which would catch a breeze and hopefully allow me to sit outside the tent
without getting eaten alive. I found just the right spot and set up camp. With my tent and gear all in place I had a late lunch and looked up to the mountains which surrounded me. My next Corbett would be my 50th and the choice was between An Stac and Rois Bheinn. At the end An Stac won, as it made most sence to climb it first.
- My camp spot
Marking the area I camped on my GPS, I set off towards the 559 point on the map. With a much lighter backpack,
walking was so much easier and without any paths, I walked straight up until I reached the summit.
The views from the summit can only be described as spectacular and I stayed for ages taking it all in and taking
hundreds of photos.
- An Stac summit
- Corbett No 50 for me
It was hard to leave, but I knew that I had to climb two more. I returned down the hill, choosing the grassy slope
to the left, which was far more knee friendly. On the way down I came across some 'odd' looking sheep. They reminded me about the St Kilda sheep, but those are on St Kilda? Later on I learned that a few also roam wild on the mainland.
- Soay sheep on An Stac
On the way down I also met a couple who did the round from Inverailort and we had a brief chat before setting off on our ways. I choose the direct route up towards Bealach an Fhiona and skirted around the edges until I stood in front of the final climb up Sgurr na Ba Glaise. I was pleased when I saw a proper path which I simply had to follow up to the summit.
- Skirting below Bealach Fhiona
The views from the summit were different in character, but equally stunning. I stayed not as long this time, as I
was keep to get up Rois-bheinn.
- Rois-bheinn and An Stac
- Summit views
There is a path connecting the 2 Corbetts, which is easy to navigate. I returned to Bealach an Fhiona and then
started climbing up the steep and in places rocky slope up Rois-bheinn. Once I reached the summit I was confused
when I did not see any summit cairn (odd) but did not bother looking for one, as my final target lay ahead in the
distance. Yet again I had to drop height, but this time the up and down was much more gentle.
- The stone walls continues and the path follows it
On the final summit a huge cairn, with what looked like a seating platorm, greeted me. The sun was low in the sky,
and turned the landscape into a pale golden colour. It was absolutely gorgeous.
I wandered along the top, looking out for the places I had visited the week before and trying to make out my tent
(unsucessfully) It was nearing 6 pm when I decided that I better get going.
- Rois-bheinn summit views
- On the final summit
- Out towards the sea
I returned all the way back to the main summit and found the small cairn, I had missed on the way up. It had been
hiding on the other side of the wall. From here I dropped down the steep slope along the wall until I reached
Bealach Fhiona again. From here it was a painful steep, but not too long downhill climb until I reached flatter
ground.
- The summit cairn
I reached my tent about an hour left before sunset and was glad to be able to take my boots off and have a wash in
the wee burn. I also used the opportunity to filter some water for drinking and cooking. My eyes however kept
darting towards the approaching sunset over the small isles. Returning to my tent I quickly heating up dinner and
sitting on the little outcrop outside my tent I had my dinner while watching the sun slowly setting behind the Isle
of Egg. It was one of the most perfect moments, with a gentle breeze and an amazing countryside around me. I could
not bring myself to head into the tent, long after the sun had set.
- Finally back at the tent
- The beautiful sunset
Eventually I did, only to peek out again in time for moonrise. The rising moon had illuminated Sgurr na Ba Glaise
to perfection. Next to the moon Jupiter was shining brightly.I stared in wonder and watched the moon rising slowly
until the countryside was cast in moonlight shadows.I think I sat until nearly 23 pm, not wanting this perfect day
to end.
- Just before moon-rise
- The moon is peaking over the hill
They say all things have to come to an end, an after a perfect day, followed a pretty sleepless night. The wind had
picked up dramatically and battered my wee tent throughout the night. I was cursing that I had picked such an
exposed area, but at the same was was too tired to get up and move my tent.I was pretty much awake for most of the night, tossing and turning and kept on woken up by the wind.
I got up the next morning feeling rather groggy. Clouds covered the mountains, but I was still in an incredible
peaceful mood. Getting up I brushed my teeth and washed my face and then started packing up.
I returned the way I had come, making already plans how to avoid freeing the goat this time. At the end only the
barking guard dog was still barking madly on my approach, but neither the goat or sheepdog were to be seen.
I felt a bit sad, but maybe just as well.
Back at my car I gazed up towards the mountains. I could not recall ever having such a perfect day. With a smile on
my face I drove home. Moidart you are stunning!
