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Part I: Creise, The Bike Race & The Lost Camera
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=114492Part II: Loch Fyne to Loch Lomond with Scary Cows
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=114664Previously in my 2015 Bank Holiday Bus / Hill Marathon, I had gone to Glencoe and accidentally got caught up in a bike race, then found someone's camera, before having to flee a terrifying bull in Glen Fyne. There was one day left, but I was absolutely exhausted after all of that (and also I had gone out for a bit on Sunday night). I woke up early-ish on Monday morning, and considered just turning over. But I had one more route in the back of my mind, and I'd probably never have one of these rover-type bus passes again (well, not for another 30-40 years...?) It would be such a waste not to go back for one more...
Bonnie Bonnie Banks Update: STILL Bonnie.
I got the 9am Fort William bus, and basically pleaded with the driver to let me off at Kirkton Farm / St. Fillian's Priory. Luckily they obliged, and I jumped off here at about 10.45am, where a shortcut path avoids the road.
The start of the Ben Challum climb is often regarded as a bit dull. But dull is good today, as I've got no energy left and am already running on empty.
Good: as long as you're not cows...
An old cemetery near the Priory and Priest's Well.
Ooft. This was pre-Dalwhinnie-controversy, so I don't even know how these things would work now.
A wee lamb, because it's May.
Even on this gentle incline, my legs were killing me, due to the effects of the weekend. I had never climbed for three straight days before (with one massive exception in 2011), and I'm not sure I ever could again.
The views were already starting to open up over Strath Fillan to the mighty Ben Lui.
The path follows the fence up past a forest, and eventually emerges on this plateau with views ahead to Ben Challum.
Gulp. Not much power left in my calves, but at least there's a decent path.
To my amazement, I reached the summit of the Top 2hrs 15mins after leaving the bus. It's a straightforward route, but I was so exhausted I didn't even expect to get halfway up.
Looking back to the Top and Crianlarich.
Made it! And the sun is out again.
Me, feeling about 158 years old.
After some lunch I was starting to feel more energised, so I carried on with a slightly ambitious plan to head down the steep North-West ridge then up to Cam Chreag and Beinn Chaorach. There were some people at the summit of Ben Challum, and I didn't expect to see a single soul for hours afterwards.
Careful you don't head down to the right here!
Ouch!
I think I headed straight down there, without realising there was a better route to the side.
The route to Cam Chreag ahead. I was planning to cut diagonally up/across the side of the hill, as the summit was towards the back.
Ben Challum, complete with the 'tricky' rocks in the middle of the descent.
A typical Cam Chreag view. It probably won't win any awards, and I don't remember there being a path, but in clear conditions it's fairly obvious how to cut across the hill towards the summit.
I don't usually take water from the streams, but I wasn't turning that down.
Beinn Chaorach, the ultimate destination.
A fence and more random rocky outcrops. Surely getting close to the summit now.
Oh this.
Surprisingly large ice sheet for late May, but good fun.
The true summit up ahead.
There was a unique view over to Beinn Dorain and its false summit(s?)
Just smile; pretend you can still feel your legs.
It's a decent descent to the 638m col, with great views back towards Ben Challum.
Another unique view of a familiar landscape. This is looking down to one of the viaducts in the huge horseshoe arch in the West Highland Line.
Oh, a path again (kind of).
Finally! And some quick maths tells me this is my 73rd Munro / Corbett / Graham (if you package them up together), which means I've finally reached the 10% mark. Only another 250 years to go and I might compleat them!
A faint track leads downhill. It's still a long walk to the bus stop at Tyndrum, but surely the worst is over now... (?)
Eventually a fence led down to the track. Back in the land of the living now. Should just be a straightforward walk to Tyndrum from here.........
Beinn Chaorach, the reclusive Cam Chreag and the shoulder of Ben Challum.
I turned round.
There are cows.
Plural this time.
They are following me.
Again.
I sprinted down the track. They followed me, picking up pace as they pursued. In a panic I turned right into a Fairy Glen-type landscape of multiple miniature hills. Maybe this would wrong-foot them. I had to try something. I couldn't run forever: it was only adrenaline carrying me by this point.
I rounded the corner between the hills and saw a wall (with a fence attached, for some reason) at the bottom of the slope. That'll do. it'll have to do.
I lobbed the wall / fence. No sign of the cows. Maybe it had worked?
Another thing to scale: this time a gate. I've never been so happy to see a gate, because once I was over it, I was finally safe. I think.
Oh, what's this? Never heard of it before. Maybe it can act as a safe refuge from all the cows.
I wandered into an area I had never been before, the Holy Pool. It was a beautiful wee place, and a good point to have a breather after my second brush with danger in two days.
I preferred the West Highland Way to the A82 (obviously), even though it was slightly longer, and passed Dalrigh before heading North-West.
I'm not really walking well now, so I think it'll be more like 1,000 paces.
I reached the bus stop just after 7pm, in good time for the Glasgow bus. I figured I should see the Citylink website, just to check there's a seat on the bus. I logged on...
......
"
UNFORTUNATELY THIS BUS IS FULLY BOOKED."
I just had my Explorer Pass. That's not actually a ticket. I had no ticket. I nearly wept.
There was still the late train, but that was something like £20+ for a single. In a state of panic (yet again), I did something I've never done before (or since): I tried to hail a lift. Only, I was no nervous and paranoid about the whole thing (I've got severe Social Anxiety Disorder / Avoidant Personality Disorder) that I was too uncomfortable to stand in the normal way, i.e. facing the traffic. So I did the stupidest thing imaginable, and stood at the roadside just beyond the bus stop, thumb out, but facing away.
Where's the Tyndrum Boys when you need them? Could have got a lift!
One car passed. Another one. And another one. And another 200...
This clearly wasn't working. Over half an hour later, the Fort William bus passed going the other way. I gave up, slightly humiliated by the whole thing. Maybe the website was wrong, and there's a spare seat on the bus? Maybe I can beg the driver to let me stand (I mean it's technically illegal, but it happens all the time in Glasgow). Maybe a team of hikers or WHW walkers will suddenly get off at Bridge of Orchy?
Eventually at around 8pm, the bus rounded the corner at the Green Welly Stop and headed towards me. I stuck my hand out (facing the right way this time) more in hope than expectation. The bus pulled in. Maybe it's just letting people off?
I walked on. There were at least half a dozen spare seats?!?
I could have hugged the driver. I have absolutely no idea why the Citlylink website said it was full, but after the day (and weekend) I'd had, I wasn't going to start questioning the driver on potential website glitches.
I collapsed into a seat. The last time I got the bus home from Tyndrum was after a c.20-mile climb (The Tyndrum Extension), and I was quite literally sick after having a Green Welly Stop pizza too quickly. I hadn't had time to grab dinner this time, which was probably for the best......
It was a magical weekend: one that I couldn't repeat if I tried (and not just because of the evil cattle). The week after, I passed my driving test, to my utter astonishment, and by the end of June I had my first car. So suddenly I had more access to the hills than ever before, but the nature of the walks changed overnight. Gone were the linear walks (like Loch Fyne to Loch Lomond) and the random walks like today (jumping off the bus in Strath Fillan and jumping back on in Tyndrum). Instead, every walk suddenly had to be a round trip, e.g. the Glen Lyon Munros. It's great to have more access to the hills at last, but I do miss the buses and trains sometimes. Partly because there's a climate crisis and I don't want to add to it, but also just because of the random fun of a bus trip. The 2015 Bank Holiday would be my last time on a bus for a while, but it was a dramatic way to bow out. And the best thing about a bus? No room for cows.........
