Ben Eighe full traverse

[Big_Bouncer]

After a rather sketchy introduction to the Mealls, Ben’s and Sgùrrs of Scotland over an impressive winter while studying in Stirling, I became engrossed in finding the most rugged, steepest and exposed bits of rock Scotland had to offer. I began swapping library sessions to clambering over grassy slopes and loose scree with friends at every opportunity (sorry mum)!, and eventually landed a summer job in Kinlochewe, surrounded by the Highlands finest and oldest lumps of granite, gneiss and sandstone.
I feasted my eyes on the Black Carl’s for the first time while stepping off the bus in Kinlochewe, ready to begin work at the hotel. It’s sawtoothed pinnacles -said to resemble silhouetted men- pierced through smothering grey clouds. The stark contrast of dense Scots pine, birch and alder in the reserve below against the grey Cambrian sandstone slopes gave the mountain an alpine feel, magnificently dominating the landscape.
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A large group of cyclists made for a long breakfast and housekeeping service. After changing a dozen pillow cases, duvets and bins, I set off, alone, for the hills (at about 13:50), the scent of Mr Sheen trailing in the air behind me. An hour or so later I was up and making my way along the ridge of Sgùrr nan Fhir Duibhe, 963m, grateful to be walking on solid ground after ascending loose scree (bright white from quartz grains on 550-million-year-old sandstone)! The ridge cast impressive views over Loch Maree, which was lapping beneath the mountain massif, Slioch. Continuing and ignoring a decent path, I finally met the pointed soldiers and had the time of my life scrambling over them. Despite it being my first time scrambling alone, I felt comfortable on its secure, juggy holds and was standing on the pinnacles in no time, admiring the extremely steep drop below. A short decent and ascent led me to the summit of Sgùrr Ban, 970m, and I was elated to see a path leading to the top of Spidean Coire nan Clach (Ben Eighe).
The cloud followed as I approached the cairn, leaving no trace of the rocky ridge I had emerged from, causing a few surprised ‘hello’s’ from walkers who had come from the other direction. Conscious of time, I pressed on to the second munro, Ruadh Stac Mòr, 1010m. The realistic steak like looking rocks strewn about the top stood out as I had never seen rocks quite like them. Their unusual appearance is due to Cambrian and Torridon sandstone slicing through each other. I descended at the bealach, marvelling at the slightly eerie triple buttress, trying to locate Fuselage Gully for plane wreckages from a crash 71 years ago.
A pretty 4km walkout (or run-out as I thought I was on dinner service) ended at the Beinn Eighe car park, and I was thankfully picked up very quickly by a passing Catelonian couple, who I noticed immediately wound down their windows as I sat down. We drove past the ridge I had spent the afternoon walking, back to Kinlochewe, as I lectured them on my very basic knowledge of the local geology, desperately trying to make up for the awkwardness of the journey.
After catching up on the latest episode of Love Island, I reflected on the day with my room- mate Iona, who too had spent the day in the hills. The Black Carl’s are, in my eyes, Kinlochewes (and Torridon’s) hidden gems, sadly dominated by their neighbours Aligan, Liathach and Slioch. In summary, it’s scramble was exposed but easy, its path clear and long but best of all the views across the whole ridge were incredible, it’s not often you find an impressive ridge walk for that length in Scotland! It’s for these factors that I found this traverse to be more enjoyable than the most common route taken (via the Western Summits). It can even be incorporated into a climbing day by doing it from West to Easy via a climb up Triple Buttress and incorporating it with the corbett, Meall a’ Ghiubhais on the way down.

I guess the overall message to take home from this is to explore the smaller fewer known hills in the area, as they could be some hidden gems and give you that quality day out in the hills you’re seeking.
I have since repeated this route numerous times with friends, here are some photos we took!

Zainab Kenny, age 21

[Verylatestarter]

Have you considered doing the full traverse from the Sail Mhor end and downclimbing the Black Carls on the way out.

Have a look at jmarkb's report for 18/10/19 - Beinn Eighe's scrambles - In Victoria footsteps or the Cairngorm Creepers report on the Sail Mhor scramble.

Regards

John

[gaffr]

My own wee variation on the Beiin Eighe traverse in September 1971 was to do the round trip from Grudie bridge out to the main summit from the back and out at the end of the ridge picking up a path then a bit of road back to Grudie bridge.